I used a hand pump to pull the gas out. When leaning left on the stand some gas leaked when removing the petcock but not a large amount. I was then able to lean it right to get most of the gas into a funnel.
The back part of the little black plastic lever had broken so was non functional. The parts list just shows the entire petcock assembly which is not cheap. Is the little lever available somewhere, maybe in a rebuild kit?
This would be a really annoying failure mode to happen if you show up to a trial and need to manually get gas to the carb.
I have a 2016 Evo with the electronic petcock. I am getting no flow when turning the manual override lever. When I try kicking nothing dribbles out either. I need to pull the petcock to investigate. Is there another way to get the petcock open so I can drain the tank? I could try a hand pump to siphon out the gas but suspect there will still be a lot of gas flowing out when I remove the mounting bolt. Is there a cleanish way to do this?
The odd thing is that the initial symptom was hard starting when cold or hot. The bike ran fine once started but I did start to get occasional odd noises in the exhaust. I adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb but when trying to start discovered this no flow issue.
Lampkins (Beta UK) did have a complete spare parts order system on line for all years and models. The UK mail system must be very good because I could frequently get parts delivered to the US in one week which was faster than most US suppliers. In the past, shipping cost was comparable but a few years ago shipping went up 2x or more so I have not used their site lately.
With the Jitsie electric start kit, the bank angle sensor assembly is removed. I'm not sure that is a good idea but assume it was done to make space for other components. I have seen no formal description of what the sensor assembly does but it likely cuts power to the fuel pump when the bike is on its side. I guess is could cut power to the whole FI system.
4T Trials bikes typically have separate oil for the engine and transmission, the transmission oil needs changing when it contains water or the clutch will cause problems as the transmission never gets hot enough to boil the water out. If you are doing lots of water crossings or power wash your motorcycle regularly you will need to change the oil when the clutch starts to make strange sounds or act up. ... They only hold half a litre in each reservoir so it is not a significant cost to change out. The separate engine and transmission oil is a great design because it allows you to use inexpensive hydraulic oil in the transmission suited to wet clutch applications and change it frequently. Separate engine oil enables you to run high tech multi-grade engine oils in the engine if you wish without causing wet clutch problems associated with friction modifiers. Water is slightly less of an issue in the engine oil where the oil is in contact with very hot parts but it has a paper oil filter that will have issues if that contains water.
... Do you power wash your bikes, operate in a wet environment and do lots of deep water crossings? <- you need to change out the oils and filters more often compared to the guy riding a dirty dirt bike in an arid environment.
I also wonder why Montesa recommends very expensive oil for the transmission. I used that for the first change but plan to look for alternatives.
The manual shows 15 hours as the oil/ filter change interval for a 2018 300. That sounds like an MX bike. Meanwhile, the Beta 4T manual shows 40 hours. What interval are people using?
My question was really related to an XT225 (Serow). The carb is a mikuni and looks similar to the Beta 4t carb so I was wondering if the Beta springs would work in the XT225 to improve response. I have made springs before so that is an option I had not thought about.
Interesting comment on the 4RT. I have a 2016 Beta 4t standard model and recently got a 2018 300 4RT but find it harder to ride due to the sharp throttle response. It is difficult to get just a little bit of power and feels like it has about 1/3 of the throttle resolution compared to the Beta . Can the 4RT be tuned to respond more like the Beta? It does have the black throttle tube. I sort of remember options for early models that allowed the owners to tune or maybe load different maps. I'm not finding anything online so is anything like that still available. I know......the solution is to improve clutch control but with arthritic hands and the beginning of trigger finger in my clutch finger that is unlikely.
Has anyone experimented with these? Are the springs intended for higher elevations weaker? Can you get quicker response at sea level or do you just end up with pop and stall?
California regulations are a mess and not clear cut at this time. Per CARB (California Air Resources Board), starting in 2022 bikes must meet certain emission standards or they get a competition only registration. Competition only now means it can only be used on public lands for closed course competitions. There are a lot of public lands here, like national forests and state run off road vehicle parks available for recreational riding so that is important. Per CARB the only bike 2022 and beyond that can get a registration for use on public lands is the EM. I talked to the Beta importer a while back and he said that it would not be difficult for their 4T to meet emission standards but the testing cost $40,000 and he did not sell enough to make it worthwhile. I'm sure this cost is now much higher and each model needs to be tested. But CARB does not make laws, that comes from the Department of Motor Vehicles and they continued to issue registrations that could be used on public lands recreationally, not only in competitions. This made it unclear what dealers should do and has not yet been resolved so in limbo.
A couple of years ago, I had a run in with a park ranger that thought my bike had the wrong type of registration (green instead of red). He took the VIN and sent it to the Department of Motor Vehicles. Two weeks later, I received a letter from them stating that the bike had been improperly imported into the state. I needed to mail in my title and registration plus get the bike out of the state. I knew the original owner and he thought everything was done properly. California regulations are a mess. Whenever a California politician runs for national office, do your due diligence.
If you live in California, it has its own bizarre laws for off road vehicle registration. When shipping a bike within the US, I have been told it can be much easier and less expensive to partially disassemble and ship as motorcycle parts. Apparently, shipping regulations are different for parts vs entire motor vehicle. Depending on the state, a Certificate of Origin should be adequate to get it titled in your state.
One clean way to remove a pressed on inner bearing race is to machine it paper thin in one area with a carbide end mill. At that point it will crack and slide right off. Careful work with a hand grinder could probably produce a similar result.
My Beta once ran the same exact way. It would idle nicely and doing tight turns was fine but if you tried to rev it up, it sputtered rich. I had left a rag in the air filter after washing the bike. You could inspect the air box.
I have a 2018 300 with black throttle tube. It looks just like the 2T throttle. Is a slower one available? I have a 2016 Beta 300 4T standard model and the throttle has much more resolution for small blips, maybe 100% more resolution that makes throttle control much easier.
I compared riding position on the Beta 4t to the 4RT and the handlebars were 1" further forward on the 4RT (compared to the pegs). I think this put more weight on the bars promoting the nose feel heavy. 30 mm riser additions brought them back to be more like the Beta. It also looked like the forks had not been serviced in a long time and fresh oil made them perform much better. With these two changes, it feels much better and the nose dive feeling is gone..
On front end dropping quickly maybe this might help.
I found the suspension setup between my 2007 4RT 250 and my 2017 300RR was quit different with the 300 seeming to drop a bit quicker than the older bike. I had had the 2007 re-valved and set it up with a little bit more squat in the rear that standard as it felt better in section riding that way. The newer bike seemed to drop the front a bit more tell I did the same tweak to squat the rear a bit as well and that quicker drop feel went away.
On another note I have had a good ride on a 2017 Beta 4T 300 and do to the geometry difference they feel quite different but to me most of the biggest differences seem to be suspension setup and head angle. I suspect with some light tweaking on things you should be able to help improve any of the differences between them, however they will never be exactly the same as I am sure you already are aware.
Good luck and hope this information helps.
Did you measure how much squat was in the back? I added some spring preload to the forks plus more rebound damping to the shock and it feels better. Still, the shock feels stiffer than the forks. This bike has a fork compression damping adjustment on the bottom of the left fork leg. The manul implies it is only effective when the forks are bottoming.
Engine performance is very strong. This is in first gear, clutch out, double blip. I'm an old guy with damaged hands so more clutch usage would not be a good solution.
To rephrase my question, what can make a bike nose dive on the back side of a log. I have not been on a modern or vintage bike that did this.
I got out for a ride on a new to me 4RT and it is quite different from my Beta 300 4t. This is a 300RR version, 2018. Power is much sharper than the Beta but it seems like power is cut much quicker than on the Beta. The front wheel really slams down on the backside of logs, even a small 10 inch diameter log.. I tend to double blip most any obstacle. I'll do a second blip when the tire is on the front of the log or on top, chop the throttle, bikes roll over and set the front end down. This 4RT just drops the front wheel like a rock hitting the ground pretty hard on the back side. I'm wondering if this is the way fuel injection works or could it be something else.
Could it have less flywheel weight than the Beta for less run on? I put the electric start kit on but the flywheel is still very close in weight to the OEM flywheel so I don't think the starter has an effect. Simply bouncing up and down on the suspension seems OK but I wonder if too little sag, too much compression damping or too little rebound damping makes the rear tire slam in causing the front tire to slam down. Or is the Montesa just like that.
Has anyone successfully replaced the drive chain tensioner bushings? Mine is a 2018 and appears to have a solid bush but the replacements (with the correct part number) arrived as a compressed split bush. They also look a little too large. When I look at them, the chance of getting them installed, round and fixed in the swingarm to work with the tensioner seems small. Has anyone done it? Does it work? It does not look good.
EVO 4 Stroke - No Flow Petcock - How to Drain?
in Beta
Posted
I used a hand pump to pull the gas out. When leaning left on the stand some gas leaked when removing the petcock but not a large amount. I was then able to lean it right to get most of the gas into a funnel.
The back part of the little black plastic lever had broken so was non functional. The parts list just shows the entire petcock assembly which is not cheap. Is the little lever available somewhere, maybe in a rebuild kit?
This would be a really annoying failure mode to happen if you show up to a trial and need to manually get gas to the carb.