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gazzaecowarrior

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Posts posted by gazzaecowarrior
 
 
  1. Hi there. I am puzzled. Just been assembling my front wheel. I just can't figure out where this little 4mm spacer goes on the spindle. I thought it may fit inbetween the hub and speedo drive but it doesnt. Then i tried it against the fork leg and speedo drive and it doesn't. Then i tried it against the brake plate and fork and still it doesn't sit right. Where does the damn thing go ? I'm hoping Jimbo can help me again. Im pretty certain it's not between the hub and brake plate as the plate sits too proud with it in. When I was younger I use to draw diagrams of things whilst taking them apart so i knew how to put them back. Now i think i know how to put them back and I clearly dont. Help !!!

  2. The fork tube can be level or dropped through say 6-10mm, this will sharpen up the steering as long as the forks dont hit the bottom of the bottom yoke. I run my MH349 with the forks pushed through 6mm but the cota 200 is level (I havent played about with it yet!). The 200 turnes a bit better than the 349 mainly because its shorter as the forks seem to be about the same angle.

    Im quite impressed with the 200 Im pushing 18 stone and it will drag me around most sections the little motor is impressive pulling really well for only 175cc, I havent road a TY175 for some time but the cota seems more lively but still has the ability to plod when required.

    Thanks for that Jimbo

  3. The tapered nut goes on first then the yoke then the chrome nut. So the yoke has the small side of the taper uppermost.

    Jimbo. Thanks once again for your advice. I had put it on the right way then. Out of interest, what is the distance between the top of your upper yoke and the top of your fork leg excluding the cap ?

    Gareth

  4. Restoration is nearly complete. Just reassembled the yokes after a week of wet and drying and polishing. Was just wondering which way up the top yoke goes. Ive fitted it with the conical nut underneath the yoke with the top stem nut pushing the yoke onto the conical nut. It looks correct but i realise it could go the other way with the yoke facing the other way and the conical nut pushing the yoke onto the headtock and bearing cover. Is the first way right ?

    Also I may fit the road gear to this bike as it is all brand new and never used. But why is there a little LED light fitted into the number board part of the front headlight. It has spade conncetions on the back of it. How it is fitted it must be for the benefit of other road users as the rider wouldn't be able to see it when he is on the bike. Confused.

    Regards

    gareth

  5. Jimbo

    According to my mh123/200 manual, the carb spec is as follows :-

    Make - Amal 6264/402

    Diffuser diameter - 24mm

    Main jet - 135

    Low speed jet - 20

    Gas valve - 3

    Sprayer - 106

    Needle - 4a (2B1)

    Hope this helps

  6. I use ATF in the forks so that will help use yous up, as for the swing arm I had to make up new bushes and faff about making it all fit so my opinion may be incorrect.

    Thanks jimbo

  7. Jimbo. Thanks for that information. I will give 10w 30 a go in the gearbox / clutch.

    Out of interest, what do you use in your forks ?

    Also I found getting the swing arm back on was really tight. In the end I had to slacken off all the engine mount bolts and it eventually popped on. It was the cradle engine mount under the engine which goes through the swing arm that it was tight against. It could be that the new powdercoat is a bit thick on the side of frame where the swing arm contacts it. Do you take off this cradle every time you take off the swing arm ? Seems very fiddly.

    gareth

  8. Just wondering what is the round nut type thing (about 20mm tall) on the top of the left hand side crankcase above the gear box sprocket ? Is it a clutch release ? I thought at first it may be a seperate oil filler for the gear box oil but the MH 123 has combined gearbox and clutch oil. Any ideas ? It has a little felt washer seated at the bottom of it, Tried uploading a photo of it but couldn't work it out.

    Also how does ATf work in these bikes ? Any good ? Ive got loads left over from my old Rev 3 that I could use.

  9. Almost certainly is the spherical bearing. I use to find them a bugger to change too. To prolong the life of mine I use to spray the bottom shock area where the bearing was with water dispersant spray after each wash. It certainly extended their life. The top bearing lasts for ever but the bottom one takes the brunt of the back wheel. getting a slightly longer shock flap will help too. People use to say not to grease it as it will only attract dirt and keep the bearing dry. They use to pop up on e bay every now and then for £15 but expect to pay £30 from the dealers.

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  10. Just rebuilt wheels for my 83 Mont 123 and was wondering if anybody knows of a suitable touch up paint for these gold rims. It is just to touch up a couple of tyre lever marks on the rim edge. How it happened I don't know as I was using rim protectors. Any ideas ?

  11. Wheels are now rebuilt with powder coated hubs, new spokes and bearings. The bike is currently set up for a speedo unit. I don't think I want to refit the speedo as I want it set up for competition. A spacer will therfor be required in place of the speedo drive to fit between the hub and fork. Does anybody know if such a spacer was available through montesa or did people have to machine their own ones ? I would like to know the dimensions of such a spacer so that I can have one made. Can anybody help ? Thanks

  12. Jimbo. Thanks for that. Must learn to take photos before stripping down. I live in Cardiff and there is a guy locally who is doing both wheels for £130 including parts and labour. The spokes will be galvanised not stainless. I took the wheels to him before I stripped them and he measured the spokes so I don't know what size they are.

  13. Ive just had my hub back from the powder coaters and it's ready to be sent to be spoked. But I can't remember which way the concaved spoked flange part of the hub attatches to the conical drum. Does it attatch with the concave going outwards facing the forks i.e. bottom and smallest part of the concave closest the hub or inwards facing the drum i.e. bottom and smallest part of the concave closest the forks ? Your help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

  14. Any idea on the year ? Is it a MH200 ? If so i've got the original manual as it shares itself with the MH123 which i've got. Let me know and I can tell you what you want to know. Gareth

  15. Thanks had it from new (26 years) although neglected it for a few years Im back in the saddle now and loving it.

    an

    That is a nice story. The Mont 123 I've got was the model of bike I first wanted as a schoolboy. My dad was dead against motorbikes and eventually gave in and got me a ty80. Twenty odd bikes later (and a knee injury meaning no more riding) I decided to get the bike I was never allowed as a kid. It's a well put together little bike. I've got all the original road kit too.

  16. Hi there Gareth.

    The bearings are held apart by a shouldered spacer tube. After removing the circlip the bearings have to be drifted outwards from the opposite side of the hub. Removing the first bearing needs a drift which is a very good fit in the bore of the opposite bearing in order to locate the end of the thin shoulder of the spacer. The end of the spacer is easily damaged.

    To make the job easier use a heat gun to warm the bearing housings before removing and refitting the bearings.

    Before fitting the new bearings make sure the spacer tube is undamaged, check by seeing if the spacer slides easily on the spindle.

    Hope this is of help.

    Many thanks for that great advice. After reading your other post about the conical hub I'm hoping I can keep the bearings in situ as the hub paint is immaculate and the bearings are brand new. I just need to powder coat the flange. Do you still have a mont then ?

  17. Hi there Gareth,

    Your MH123 conical front hub's small spoke flange is made of steel and held on with three nuts. After removing the nuts there should be a plain flange followed by the spoke flange. Both flanges can be removed for painting.

    Hope this helps.

    That helps a lot. Many thanks. Is the non spoked flange the part that the speedo lugs fit into ? I'm amazed it's only those 3 little nuts which hold the hub on.

    Gareth

  18. Hi there. Been looking at the wheel bearings in my conical hub. Just wondering on the best way to get them out in case I send the hub off for powder coating. There is a rubber seal on both sides which I have removed. There is then a circlip on one side against a bearing but no circlip on the other side. There looks like there is a spacer between the bearings. Just wondering which would be the best way to tap them out if I do have to take them out. Would one go one way and the other the other way or do they both tap out in the opposite direction of the circlip ?

    Regards

    Gareth

  19. Hi there

    I'm just about to send my front wheel off for a re-spoking. I was just wondering if the front hub is in two pieces or one ? The non brake side which has the longer spokes appears to be made of steel and the rest seems to be alloy. Is this the case ? If so and the wheel was de-spoked would the two parts seperate easily? The only reason I ask is because the steel part is rusty and the alloy side is immacualte. I was going to have the whole hub powder coated but if it comes into two parts I would just send off the steel bit as it would save me having to remove the bearings on the alloy side as they are brand new.

    Regards

    Gareth

  20. hi i have 7 cota 200,s and also dable in car paint work i would say that is the nearest colour to origanal out of them all i would describe it been an orangey red ,not deep or dark red

    Thanks for that. Yes I agree. It is an orangey red but I need to be a bit more specific.

    Gareth

  21. Well it looks like I may be going down the powder coating route on my Montesa MH123 restoration. Can't afford chroming. Does anybody have any idea what colour the frame should be with reference to a ral colour code. Rocky Mountain Montesa say it is a St germain red. However poiwder coating companies only seem to use the ral colour scheme.I am not very good with colours but I think the closest colour seems to be code 2005 which is an illuminous orange. A link to the colour chart is below. I accept the actual colour may be tottally different to how it appears on screen too. Would appreciate some assistance.

    http://allral.com/color_tables.php

  22. just been looking at the maldon shotblasting and powder coating site. Turns out they do a chrome powder coat. This may be the way forward. Has anybody used this company ? Their prices look competetive.

 
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