Allow me to be the first to mention that this oil discussion has been well documented time and time again
Perhaps search would yield a vast amount of information for you to ponder
Beware, every rider has a preference and every oil is better than the last including ATF
I had spent well over an hour searching this topic before posting. I wish I had more time to do so. Couldn't find the answer I wanted regarding elf so I subsequently posted.Does anybody know which elf oil it is ?
Bought my 250 evo 2t a month ago. Clutch and gears were working sweetly until I did my first oil change. Now gear selection is a nightmare. I don't know what oil was in there but it was clearly a lot better than what ive put in. I put in Putolene 75w light gear oil and i'm thinking this could be the root of my problem. I filled the oil to the middle of the sight glass. I've been told that Elf oil is very good in Beta Evo's. Does anybody know which Elf oil this is ? I haven't done any clutch fix mod and I don't see the need to do so either if it is working well on the previous oil.
The frames used to crack around the top engine mount where the petrol tank is. The cracking is caused by the force transferring up from the bashplate through the engine and up to the top motor mount causing stess up there. I saw one guy on this forum who had his crack in the head tube area, i'm not sure that is as common as the other cracking areas. When i bought my 2009, it had already had a frame change from the previous owner and i was told that the swing arm was also updated but it turns out it wasn't. I ended up cracking the swingarm in 3 places (not all the way through) and luckily I bought it from the beta dealer down here so he happily replaced it for me. The area where the swing arm cracked was on the underside hollowed out bit where the bracing is. The cracking is more common to riders who go hard, but you really need to keep an eye on it just in case, even if you aren't doing big stuff.
Just bought myself a 2009 Evo. Bike has hardly been ridden and is on original tyres and sprockets. Checked with lampkins and it is still on the original frame. Lampkins reassured me that they would still replace frame if it did crack as they would the swing arm too.
Due to recent injury (I thought I wouldnt ride again to be honest) this bike will have very light use from me. Was just wondering how high is the chance of my frame being faulty and where did the frames use to break ? I read an old post which suggested that it was mainly the top riders who are heavy on their bikes that had the problems but others suggest it was more common. Just wanted to know peoples thoughts. I know people are going to say why not just buy a 2010 or newer but this bike is like new and was just too good to turn down for the money.
What do you mean by missing, is the nipple just broken off?
It hasn't broken off. It looks like it's been removed. From my memory of my other betas, the nipple swivels and probably has a collar or flange at the bottom. Mine must have been pulled off. You can see the spring loaded bit from the top. The guy who had my bike previously had not been a good owner.
It's not very likely you have liquid fuel blowing out of your exhaust, I'm sure it would foul a plug and run poorly
A vast majority of what comes out of a muffler is water, especially during warmup
When full hot it is super heated vapour so you don't really notice it
Coolant consumption usually stinks like coolant and is more likely to get combustion debris into the coolant than leak coolant into the high compression area of the combustion chamber
So, not sure what's on your rear wheel, but maybe 2 stroke oil like Dad says
What does it taste like ?
Thanks for the information. Very helpful and well explained. I've only got deionized water as coolant at the moment. It does look like two stroke but I can't understand why there is so much of it. I'm sure my problem is my inability to set up the dellorto carb. I'm use to Mikuni and amal carbs with air screws. I may drain the coolant and look if its contaminated. I'm wondering if deionized water evaporates quicker than proper coolant and that is why I have minimal loss in the coolant. Any ideas?
I have black spots splattered on the rear rim. I thought it may be poor adjustment of the fuel screw on my dellorto carb. It could be this however the bike seems to rev well with it one turn out or three. I confess I dont have a good enough ear for carb fine tuning. Bike is a Rev3 125. I think I may be losing coolant but this is minimal I certainly havent got coolant in the tranny oil. Could it be the head / base gasket failing ? Is there any way of checking ? I have no loss of power and the bike is running sweet as a nut. Help would be appreciated.
Im missing the little nipple thing which sits on top of the radiator cap on my Beta Rev. What is it for and will it effect the bike not having it? Is it for aiming the water away from you should the bike boil ? Is it part of the pressure release system ?
I use an x11 on my mont 123 with no problems. Bultaco UK do a nice tubeless rim for £90 so you could lace it in and have have a genuine tubeless twinshock. Lower pressures, no tube punctures. I bought a spare hub to do mine so I can have both options.
Success. 15 mins at quarter throttle on a quiet bank holiday and the fan leaos into life. Neighbours will hate me but pleased it works. Thanks for all the advice. Gareth
It's not going to squirt like a garden hose, coolant is kind of tricky
If it travels too fast it doesn't spend enough time in the rad and cannot be cooled, then the engine will overheat because it is ingesting hot water
I would route the coolant overflow hose so it's easy to see it blow off and just ride the bike
If you don't blow coolant you are not overheating and it won't harm the engine if you get it hot enough to blow coolant, just shut it off but look at the fan before you kill it
Take the output side hose (the on to the top side of the rad) and point it at your buddy
Run the bike and it should pump all the water out rather quickly
I took off the hose on top of the cylinder head as it was easier to get too. Water did come out but it was more if a ouze than a fountain. Put my finger over it and could feel some pressure. My mate thinks IM not letting it heat up enough. It is only ticking over for ten mins. Daren't not rev it too much or the neighbours complain. Should water be flying out of this hose when disconnected? Also how many minutes on idol should the fan kick in ? All my other bikes have kicked in within ten mins
there cant be much wrong with it .. is the water getting up to temp. as i remember all you do is whip the wires off stat and join them together to test the fan and if it works its the stat.. if the stat is working via a boiling water test all is good mechanically..
so the stat is not getting hot enough insitu.. if you ve run it for 10 mins and the fan dont come on then the stats sat in an air pocket and not water..is the pump working??
Thanks for the response. Just drained out all the coolant. Put an airline through the drain hole and blew through the radiator cap and then the thermostat hole in case any gunk was blocking. Then refilled. Ran for ten mins. Still no action. Surely it should have kicked in by then. Is there a simple way of checking the pump is working without taking off the pump housing ?
Since buying my little 05 125 the fan has not kicked in when the engine has warmed up. IM not new to beta so i by passed the thermostat and the fan kicks in. So i presumed it must be the thermostat. Just fitted the new thermostat and still no joy. Ran it to the point the bike was going to boil and still no action. I am puzzled as i was certain a new thermostat would fix it. What could be wrong ? Could there be a blockage in my rad ? Help. Ive just tested the circuitry of the old thermostat in a cup of hot water with a volt meter and it does work.
From what I've seen, thats normal for small displacement bikes.
No previous bike has revved like this though. Its revs like the throttle is wide open. Not what my neighbours want to hear when im testing the bike and surely not good for a cold cylinder and piston rings.
Beta Evo Oil
in Beta
Posted
Thanks for the info. Mine is an 09