I had a look on the bike and I could feed the pipe inside the frame for s bit more protection. However I would have to shorten it quite a bit as the void doesn't go all the way up to the fuel cap. Shortening this shouldn't affect carburetion should it ?
Regarding the connection at the right hand side of the carb, the horizontal one goes downwards and the vertical one is the vent which on your bike is led up inside the side panel. An easily available petrol cap vent can be fitted on the end to prevent the direct ingress of water.
On later models, the vent pipe was run up the hollow frame section, so that the end is up above the highest opening so well protect from direct water. I would route it that way. If your tube is rock hard, Splat Shop has Keihin bits including the overflow and vent pipes.
Many thanks for your detailed response. Very helpful. I will have a look on my bike later and see if I can route it through the frame. Otherwise I will get a petrol cap vent.
On my beta evo 125 2012 one of my carb breather pipes goes vertically upwards and terminates near the fuel cap under a plastic shroud which houses electrics and the throttle cable. Should this be going in this direction or should it terminate near the swingarm like the other carb pipes. Or is this a breather pipe a d the others are overflow pipes. With the pipe running down to the carb it just seems like water could be drawn in when I wash it. Any ideas ? I've just had to strip the carb after washing the bike for the first time. Bike is new to me.
It sounds like there may be some dirt in the carb or gloopy old fuel - maybe in the small jet. I'd take the carb off and give it a good clean.
Just done that. Put compressed air through it. No obvious muck in the bowl but it is now running really well. I'm convinced it was my over zealous jet washing that caused it as it ran great until I washed it.
I notice one of the pink breather pipes nearest the choke runs vertically upwards and follows the direction of the throttle cable towards and terminating by the fuel cap under a plastic cover. Is this the normal route if such a pipe or should it go the other way and terminate near the swing arm like all the others. It just seems vulnerable to water ingress.
Just bought a 2012 125 beta evo. Took delivery of it yesterday. Fired it up in the garage and it ran sweetly. Was very pleased. Gave it a good wash yesterday to make it perfect. Tried starting it after wash and it just kept bogging when choke off. After a while it started to run ok. Thought it must have just been wet somewhere . Then today I fired it up again today. Same again. Starts with choke on but revs are very high with it on. With no choke it dies if you open throttle and just about idles with no throttle. Any ideas ? I've just put in new fuel and a new plug to rule them out. The original plug was very black. Am I going down the pulling carb apart route ?
Also is the air screw that tiny flat head screw on the kickstart side?
Given that you could have paid about four and a half thousand pounds for a Yamaha a quarter of a century ago you seem to be getting an adequately good deal
It's hardly worth waiting for the 2021 stickers, for that's all the likely difference.
Thanks for the response. Think you've missed my point though. I'm not interested in a 2021 model. I was wondering if when the 2021 model hits the market if there will be a few left over new 2020 bikes at a reduced rate? Back in 2012 I bought a new 2011 beta evo when the 2012 came out. Got it for £4000 instead of £4600.
Hi there. I'm coming back to trials after a 6 year break. Cannot believe the cost of used bikes now. What happened? I've had four stroke trials bikes before as well as two and am considering a new 2020 Montesa 260rt. Mainly due to the Honda 6.9% interest rate which would suit me.
It's £5999. Dealer says he will throw in registration and road tax. Delivery will be £20. Couple of questions.
1. If I wait a few months will Montesa release a 2021 version of this and any left over new 2020 bikes drop in price? I think the Honda 6.9% offer ends in may.
2. Shall I try and strike a better deal? I'm not part exchanging anything. I stupidly gave away all my bits with the last bike I sold. Should no haggle for accessories?
Looks awesome. I cant even get my two year old son close to the balance bike I bought him let alone a motorbike. He just likes spinning the wheels instead. Maybe he'll be a mechanic !!!
I think they are meant to be like that from memory, I was puzzled first time I stripped one out 10 years ago but haven't took much notice since. I think a combination of the crankcases and the spindle being pulled up against the other side of the frame is sufficient to stop flex. There's definitely not a spacer to go in there and you have the plastic cup in the right location. I'll check mine tonight for you
Did you tighten the swing arm axle bolt with the motor pinch bolts loose?
Yes they were loose. I was paranoid about tightening the bolt into the swingarm spindle and over tightening. Looking at the photo of the end of the spindle in the frame, should I have maybe tapped it in further before tightening up everything? It seemed to have an end point when I tapped it in ?
Just reassembled my swingarm after greasing all the linkages etc. I'm just wondering if I'm either missing a part or have put it in the wrong sequence. On the left sprocket side of the swingarm I can see a small 2mm gap between the edge of the swingarm and the frame and can see the swingarm bolt. There is no sideways play in the swingarm. On the gasgas parts diagram I downloaded there is a bush. When I took the bike apart this white plastic bush was seated in the frame I.e. It would be inserted onto the swingsrm bolt before the bolt is put through the frame and swing arm. Is this correct or should this bushing be on the swingarm side of the frame ? Or is this 2mm gap supposed to be there between swingarm and frame ? Your help would be appreciated. Gareth
Or, make yourself one of these like I did. It threads into the pivot shaft end to push it out or to pull it back in (the length makes it easy to align the end into the inside recess of the frame, which is where you are having trouble.
The short one I carry in the trailer toolbox for emergency use in the field. The long one gets more use and is in the shop.
Jon
I'm going to buy a bolt to help align my swing arm bolt. I see you made up one. I measured the bolt which inserts into the spindle as m14 but I'm unsure as to the pitch. Is it 1.5 or 2.0 ?
If its a Dellorto carb then unscrew the fuel screw half a turn and try that.
If it has had a Keihin carb fitted then turn the air screw in a quarter of a turn and try that, sounds to me like its just "Pinking"....
Hi kev
Finally got some time to spend on the bike. Stripped carb, cleaned and reassembled with clean air filter. Needle type and position was as you described. Unscrewed fuel screw half a turn and engine now sounds sweet. Thanks ever so much for your advice. Gareth
Just removed my carb for a strip and rebuild on my 08 250 txt pro. Its got an overflow / breather pipe in the choke side about 2" long. On the other side is a spiggot which looks like a pipe should be on it but there isn't. Should there be a pipe or not. I'm worried water etc could enter the carb if the pipe isn't on the other side. Any ideas ?
I had a rtx 125. I bought it new in 1997 for £999. I can still remember it arriving in a van. I thought it handled better than my ty175 which it replaced. But the engine was not great. There was an odd little clutch adjuster cover cap which always use to ping off.
I would try and keep it original. If it keeps your kids interested then even better !!
Just picked up a 2008 gas gas 250. Delighted to see old owner had kindly fitted a new X11. Gutted then to see that he had also drilled the rim and fitted a rim lock and tube. I'm guessing he had leaky rim tape and couldn't be bothered to fix it. I want to go back to tubeless as I find tubed tyres a real faff. But I'm left with a hole in the rim. I could try a chemical metal repair (pb weld) but I'm wondering if rim flex would just ping it off ? Or I could put a 2nd valve in the hole to replace the rim lock. Any suggestions ?
Also where do you find the rim tape for tubless rear wheels which hasn't got the built in valve? Seems dapht to spend £25 on a built in valve and rim tape if I then have to put another hole in I for the second valve.
No, just turn it out another half a turn from where it is now to stop it from pinking, clean the carb out fisrt though incase there is any dirt in there, make sure you blow the jets out....
Beta carb breather pipe direction
in Beta
Posted
I had a look on the bike and I could feed the pipe inside the frame for s bit more protection. However I would have to shorten it quite a bit as the void doesn't go all the way up to the fuel cap. Shortening this shouldn't affect carburetion should it ?