Hi there. My bikes revs dramatically increase when bike is on an incline (front higher than rear). Even an incline as little as 10 %. I've checked floats and they are set properly and appear to cut off when perfectly horizontal.
This has been a long running occurance. This weekend I have stripped and cleaned carb, decoked front pipe, cleaned and repacked silencer, cleaned air filter, new plug and changed premix to Castrol power 1 racing. Running 50:1. I'm going to have a play with the air screw and get that set properly as I think it's running rich.
Any idea what could be causing this ? Obviously it was like this before I carried out the weekend maintenance. I just wanted to check everything was clean and functioning before I started looking for a reason for this increase in revs. I find if I stop for any reason on an incline I have to kill the engine as the revs pick up so much it annoys me. Bike runs perfectly albeit a blackish plug.
Sorry I didn't make any record of the vin plates. For the record though, my Rtx was a direct replacement for my aging Yamaha ty175 which I had had since a schoolboy. I felt as a pure trials bike it rode a lot better than the ty175 however I was always worried about the longevity of the engine. It certainly didn't feel like a 88kg bike to ride. It felt lighter. The modern plastics were very aesthetically pleasing and complimented the all in one seat / tank unit.
I know they were planning on bringing out a mono shock version. Did it ever go into production?
This is me on my Rtx 125 in 1998. Excuse the photo quality as it is a photo of a photo. For some reason my dad developed the photo in black and white. The bike was red with chrome frame and yellow rtx logo. I hope this helps.
I had a new rtx 125 back in 1998. It cost £999 new and I'm sure I bought it from a company called 'off road uk'. It rode ok but the fibreglass plastics were unforgiving to impacts. The frame was chromed and quite attractive. I remember the steel rims and drum brakes. There was also some odd adjuster on the clutch casing which kept coming loose. There were a few articles in tmx when it was launched. It was a fun and cheap bike. I have a few photos of me riding it that my dad took. Mine was red.
Hi,
I know a few people on here have posted about wearing CTi pro sport braces for riding trials and they give good reports.
I wear the K8 2.0 POD forged Carbon knee braces. I regularly ride in temperatures above 35c and find once you get them adjusted and fitted right I am not really aware they are there, they did take a little acclimatisation though on the first few rides. They are obviously a bit warmer than just knee pads but the payoff is great all around protection including safe guarding your ACL. They are very light weight, I personally like how the knee protection was implemented on the K8 compared to the CTi pro sport.
Like the CTi pro braces the K8 are medically certified braces and can be adjusted and fine tuned for fit. There is also a K4 version which is a bit cheaper than the K8.
I have seen the Mobius X8 braces and I think that while they are a good brace with goed reviews, they are a little on the bulky side.
Here’s a picture of the fit on the K8 for reference.
Thanks for replying. Yes the pod k8 braces look a good bit of kit. I decided to order the mobius x8 in the end. Managed to get them for £373 so pleased with the price. I'm hoping they do the job. What persuaded me to buy them was the wire system which tightens the brace behind the patella. Very unique as most braces only attach above and below the knee cap with straps. Time will tell how they perform.
Hi there. I've worn a donjoy armour knee brace on my left leg following a trials crash ten years ago leading to me having ACL and MCL reconstruction. The brace is very effective at protecting ligaments but doesn't protect my knee cap or shin area. You can buy an add on guard which would do this but they are expensive and would still leave my right leg totally unprotected.
I recently planted my right knee and tibia on a rock and luckily escaped with mild swelling and bruising but it made me think about further protection. I don't want to be on an operating table again.
I don't compete anymore and simply ride for fun so not worried particularly about bulkiness. I've been looking at the Motocross knee braces as they also act as a knee cap and shin guard. I'm looking at buying a pair of mobius x8 knee braces. They have good reviews. Has anybody here used them or something similar ?
I had the Dave cooper van rack on my Freelander 2. Worked well. The van rack has a longer square box section coming out from the bracket which is housed on the towbar. I use the same rack on my Peugeot Boxer van now. Very well made.
Check the tip of the idle adjuster and the area where it contacts the slide. I have the same adjuster and the tip wore and flaked quite a bit as well as wearing the slide and trapping flakes in the area, this caused the idle to change. After the initial wear it has been OK, I'd forgot about it until this post and I never got around to fitting a replacement.
Other than that check all jets and adjustments against the manual, stock settings should be fine in the UK.
Thanks for that. Jitsie adjuster is new so will check that. What is the standard needle position (counted from the top)?
My 2012 beta Evo 125 seems to idle a bit erratically at times. Filter is regularly cleaned, carb recently cleaned, plug is new, jitsie idle adjuster fitted, air screw 2 turns out. Basically when cold it idles fast which I would expect then after it warms up idles well and appropriately. Then all of a sudden it starts idling a bit faster then after a bit of a ride the idle goes very slow to the point it dies. I often find it stalls and I'm convinced it has a bit of a bog from closed throttle to open. Could this be the idle jet ? It then seems to change from idling perfectly, to idling fast or dieing. The plug br7es is new and I often find my plug is carbonised but not oily wet.
Any ideas what could be causing this idling ? Could it be the floats need a fiddle with ? Float height adjustment seems a bit of a black art to me.
Does anybody have a recommendation for the needle clip position. I ride at normal altitude in the UK.
How about a bit of chemical metal, it worked on my daughters cars exhaust for years.
Regarding the colour of your plug, all my Evos have always been on the dark side, Lampkins said not to worry about it too much, just go by engine response. I found that if i turn the mixture screw out, i then experience bogging on the bottom if I turn the throttle quickly.
I will bear that in mind. Certainly when I bought the bike it ran with a text book tan colour plug. However since I stripped and rebuilt the carb and sorted out the cold engine bogging it is now black. I'll see what it's like after my next ride at 2 turns out.
Hi there. I noticed a few black drops on my garage floor. Thought it was transmission oil at first but when I sniffed it I realised it was exhaust gunk. Thought it would be coming from where the front pipe meets the silencer but when I looked the underside of the silencer had a small covering of black gunk on it and some had dropped on the floor. I cleaned up the area and fired up the bike to see where it was coming from as I couldn't see a hole. Eventually a tiny drop formed and got bigger. The hole must be tiny and must be a pin hole. Can't see any crack.
Ive just got the packing to repack the silencer and I was wondering how I could fix the hole without getting it TIG welded. I was thinking about drilling a 2mm hole where the pin hole is and neatly plug it with JB weld. It could then be sanded flush. Do people think this would work ? It's not a particularly hot part of the exhaust system. Oddly no gases seem to be coming out if it.
Ive also leaned out the air screw a bit. It was 1.5 turns out and I've now moved it to 2 out. Plug was blackish too. This area is probably the lowest point of the silencer to likely to pool with gunk if over rich I guess.
I've recently bought a bike 'blind' without seeing it. Never done it before but Welsh lockdown meant we couldn't leave Wales and bike was in Yorkshire. Thankfully it was perfect and as described but it did cross my mind what I would do if when delivered it was a dog of a bike. Descriptions of bikes are very subjective and what I interpret as clean and little used may be vastly different from the next person.
I think try and remedy it yourself. Maybe it's just a simple thing like the carb or blocked tank breather. If all the usual suspects fail to resolve the situation contact the dealer and ask for advice. He may be able to suggest something else to fix it or assist you in any parts needed. If this can be done at distance then even better as a courier to transport a bike back will be £100.
I hope you get it sorted and it's something simple.
Hi there. I've always been wary using wd40 on my bike. Im sure it can swell rubber. I use gt85 with straw attachment for accuracy after I've washed the bike to displace any water. I remove flywheel cover. Fire bike up. Let it run for ten mins. Spray gt85 over engine area once engine cool enough. I then spray chain and linkage area. Avoid all brakes obviously. It leaves a nice sheen on plastics too. This has worked for me.
I've got a 2012 bets evo 125. I'm 90kg. Had always ridden 250's until I retired due to injury six years ago. Wanted a little used bike to ride again at my local practice area. My bike came up and it had clearly never been trialed. Not a scratch on it. None of the usual signs of abuse for a bike costing £2500. I thought the 125 would not be enough for me but it has been perfect. Plenty of power. I've just got used to revving it a bit more. Remember how able these little bikes can be with the top schoolboys riding them in the British championships !! I haven't regretted my purchase at all. It's been a great buy.
There is no O ring fitted to the standard air-screw although some after market ones do have them. We have never fitted an aftermarket air-screw and have had no problems. Always remove when cleaning the carb as the pilot air drillings can block up. Before removal check setting by carefully screwing in until it bottoms - counting the turns before removal, don't lose the spring! Air-screw setting is normally 1.5 to 2.5 turns out from fully in, and a long bladed screwdriver will reach it under the silencer for fine adjustment.
Regarding the tickover screw, once freed and greased the plastic one is ok, but an aftermarket one is better and you need the spring from the original and that gives sufficient tension.
Hi there. I just couldn't adjust the tickover of my carb. Realised the old plastic tick over screw was seized solid. Is this s common fault. Looking at how little used the bike is I reckon the carb gas never been removed before I took oenership. Removed carb and tried to screw it out but the plastic piece just sheared off. I carefully drilled it out then ran a tap (or is it a dye) down it to clear the thread. I was going to replace it anyway with a dab products tick over screw. It threads in perfectly but the thread doesn't seem tight. I'm hoping I haven't damaged the delicate M5 thread but I was careful. I'm guessing i need to refit the spring to give it some tension. Is this right ? I'm surprised there is no o ring. The dab products screw came with no spring. Does the thread give it it's air tightness ?
Also the air screw had no o ring either. Is this normal ?
The idle circuit sounds like it is right on the edge of lean. I suggest:
clean the idle circuit with a carb cleaner, be sure to remove the idle mixture screw and pilot jet to spray through all passages, then follow up with compressed air. Look though the pilot jet to make sure it is not plugged. While it is apart you might as well clean everything.
the mixture screw is an air screw. try adjusting it in progressively. Don't go below one turn out.
Go up one size on the pilot jet. (you could check first to see if you have the factory recommended pilot jet size)
My new to me beta 125 boggs like crazy on start up. It acts like the engine is not warmed up despite it running / idling for 5 mins. It revs fine stationary then when you try and ride off it boggs. It nearly dies it boggs so much. This goes on for another 5 minutes then it just clears and runs perfectly for the rest of the session. This happens every time I have ridden it. Air screw is 2.5 turns out. I notice on a cold start up, having the choke clicked on makes it rev far too high for a cold engine and I have to feather the choke without clicking it fully on to get it to run for the first minute. Then it idles ok. I have cleaned out the bowl and lower section of the carb with compressed air a few weeks ago. Any ideas ? Is the choke adjustable or should I adjust the air screw ? Fuel cap pipe is not blocked.
somethings just never end like this bike rebuild of mine😫😫
ok here is my problem and really hope someone can help me with guidance.
My rear wheel hub and spokes were replaced. When my axle is equal distance from the swingarm bolt the wheel pulls front left hitting the chain guide.
So im thinking of 2 possible mistakes.
1. the new spoke come short and long is it possible they used the long spoke on short side and short spoke on long side?
2. the complete wheel is off and all spokes need to be loosened on one side and tightened on the other
Wheel building is a black art and few can do it properly. Measurements should have been taken before old spokes removed to ascertain position of wheel and bias to left and right. Your wheel builder will be able to pull it back quite easily as the spokes are nice and new thus bringing it more midline to the desired position. The same thing happened to me when restoring a Montesa. Mine was 5mm out. I had to return wheel to builder. It is a quick fix for someone who knows what they are doing. Hope you get it sorted.
Whatever length will not affect the carburetion and the up through the frame routing is the neatest solution and best protection. Make the run similar to the 2nd picture, push the tube up inside the frame until it stops, estimate how much to cut off the end and cut at an angle so that even if it comes up against a flat face, it cannot be blocked. Next time you remove the carb for cleaning, it comes out with the carb, and you just slide it back up the frame when refitting.
2012 Beta 125 revs increase on incline
in Beta
Posted
Hi there. My bikes revs dramatically increase when bike is on an incline (front higher than rear). Even an incline as little as 10 %. I've checked floats and they are set properly and appear to cut off when perfectly horizontal.
This has been a long running occurance. This weekend I have stripped and cleaned carb, decoked front pipe, cleaned and repacked silencer, cleaned air filter, new plug and changed premix to Castrol power 1 racing. Running 50:1. I'm going to have a play with the air screw and get that set properly as I think it's running rich.
Any idea what could be causing this ? Obviously it was like this before I carried out the weekend maintenance. I just wanted to check everything was clean and functioning before I started looking for a reason for this increase in revs. I find if I stop for any reason on an incline I have to kill the engine as the revs pick up so much it annoys me. Bike runs perfectly albeit a blackish plug.