You might try re-packing it a little looser. The internal core of the final muffler is part of the "included length" of the designed exhaust system
and you may have reduced the internal volume. MX expansion chambers will be smaller volume for torque values and roadrace chambers will tend to have more volume for higher rev's (that's a gross oversimplification, but may be, in part, what's working here). Did you do anything else to the engine..at all, when you packed the muffler?
Jon
Oh, and you may want to check the core as it may have shifted during re-packing and mis-alignment will kill rev's quickly.
Thanks jon for the advice. Your insight into exhaust design is much appreciated. I am going to repack it again today and give it a blast this afternoon to test whether there is any change.
I didnt do anything else to the engine as it was working fine. I kept the carb set as it was as it was spot on. The only thing I did do was replace the overflow pipes to the carb. I doing this I took some advice from this site and drilled a tiny hole into the oveflow pipes above the height of the float chamber to prevent the syphoning that occurs with mikuni carbs. This seems to have worked.
I'll stick my nose in here since nobody answered you, but I may be missing the point, if you can use 3rd instead of 2nd to climb hills, isn't that better, traction-wise? The loose packing, like SilentSport, should probably be packed looser than you think, as the directions say, and not jammed in, like the density of roll packing. I've had good luck with SilentSport as it is much easier to pack the odd-shaped Trials mufflers and you can add to it in a pinch (like the Trial is the next day and all the shops are closed, but the muffler still needs packing). The sound will be different, and maybe you may be mistaking the performance of the bike based on your previous experience with the old packing?
Jon
Thanks for the response. The point I was making is that the whole feel of the bike has completely changed and I don't like it. I like 2nd gear a lot as it is a good gear to blast up a hill from a standing still start when you don't have space for a run up. If I try it now the bike runs out of revs and my momentum slows down and I end up on my a***. On the same hill before I repacked it would coast up in second with lots of revs left to crest the top of the hill. I am just amazed that over packing a silencer can have such a drastic effect on top end in the low gears.
Gave my 04 Beta 250 a full overhaul two weeks ago. Part of this overaul involved re-packing the silencer. I have allways used the roll type packing but this time decided to try the loose stuff. I have done two competitions on the bike since and the whole charector of the bike has changed. It doesn't seem to have the power in the low gears and seems to rev out too easily. Hills which I would have ridden in second gear I am now riding in third because it would rev out and I wouldn't be able to get to the top. The bike sounds crisp but I am wodering if I have re-packed it too tight. Any advice would be appreciated.
Kay and Dai Bedford run Merthyr. Tel 01685350798. Buy a copy of Trial and Moto X News and all the events are advertised at the back. The welshtrials.com site has a list of contact numbers etc. By the way, don't let the name confuse you, the Gwent Schoolboys isn't just for schoolboys.
Merthyr is my club and they put on very good trials. I also regulary ride Dulais Valley, Neath, and Gwent Schoolboys. I haven't ridden any Pontypool trials yet but I am riding one of theirs this saturday so I will let you know. Like yourself, I returned to trials a year ago after a 15 year break and I have really enjoyed it. All the clubs are really friendly with lots of people willing to give you advice. All the clubs do an easy route to help get you back into it. welshtrials.com is a very good website too. Best of luck.
It didn't cause any problms to the alloy. I would echo what the other guy said that tesco wouldn't sell any thing that would damage alloy as the majority of the people buying this product would have alloy wheels. I thought it was a really good product and faced with the rising costs of diesil / petrol, I will try aything to make my weekend activities cheaper.
Bought some Tesco wheel cleaner spray the other day as I was sick of paying over inflated prices for degreasers such as 'muc off' and 'proclean'. Whilst these degreasers are very efective, they cost a small fortune to buy unless you buy an oil drum's worth of the stuff and the price per litre comes down. How impressed I was when I sprayed tesco's
Phone up Lampkins on 01535655970. They offer an exchange service. I don't think you will get your old shock back as you will probably get the last persons shock who sent theirs in for exchange. I don't think it is cheap as I seem to remember a figure around
Hi there. I have been looking at the Beta motor website after finnally being able to download adobe reader. I can only find the diagram of the 07 beta rev 250cc. Yes you are right, it does only show one washer. There does seem to be another washer behind the basket but as I didn't take out the basket I don't think this is it. Is the 07 beta engine pretty idenetical to the 04 model. It does look it. Cheers for your help. It has been very usefull. regards. gareth
I think these would be shims to get the correct freeplay on the push rod.if you have put new(thicker) plates in you should be fine. I hope this is right as its been a while.
Thanks for the advice. I spoke to Mr Lampkin on the phone today and he said that some beta's came with two washers and some with one. The washers as you said were in between the pressure plate and the bearings. They are of different sizes. I have put the larger one nearest to the bearing and the second slightly smaller one closest to the pressure plate. The clutch works fine and I just don't know whether I should pull out one off these washers. The biggest one is the same diameter as the bearing and sits flush on it. What do you think I should do ?
Never had a Beta clutch apart but from description alone I would say they are thrust washers and are of great importance!
Thanks for the advice. I spoke to Mr Lampkin on the phone today and he said that some beta's came with two washers and some with one. The washers as you said were in between the pressure plate and the bearings. They are of different sizes. I have put the larger one nearest to the bearing and the second slightly smaller one closest to the pressure plate. The clutch works fine and I just don't know whether I should pull out one off these washers. The biggest one is the same diameter as the bearing and sits flush on it. What do you think I should do ?
Both of these washers will most certainly affect the performance of your clutch.
Refer to page 8 of the parts diagram on the beta website. i think the washers your speaking about are numbered 10 and 18. the larger of the two sits between the clutch centre and the clutch basket, where as the smaller sits between the clutch rod and the pressure plate. Again refer to the parts diagram if you are not sure what these are.
Hang on, just read your post again, are both washers the same size and from the same place? (Between the clutch rod and pressure plate)? if so, as far as I am aware, there should only be one. This should be between the bearings and the pressure plate. Without it your clutch won't fully disengage.
Also, bear in mind in the future, as far as I have previously gathered from this forum, beta's have a history of "sticky" clutches and you should pump the clutch a few times when first starting to get the clutch fluid moving.
Short version:
Put one of the washers back =)
Thanks for the advice. I spoke to Mr Lampkin on the phone today and he said that some beta's came with two washers and some with one. The washers as you said were in between the pressure plate and the bearings. They are of different sizes. I have put the larger one nearest to the bearing and the second slightly smaller one closest to the pressure plate. The clutch works fine and I just don't know whether I should pull out one off these washers. The biggest one is the same diameter as the bearing and sits flush on it. What do you think I should do ?
Beta Rev 250 clutch assembly. I have just fitted a new clutch to my 04 beta rev 250. It had been really stiff changing gears and after consultation with Mr Lampkin he advised me to change the plates. This I did and the gear selection is a lot smoother. It doesn't take an hour now to get it in neutral either. But whilst changing the clutch I found two very thin steel spacers / washers which fitted in between the cover of the clutch basket and the roller type bearing on the spindle. These don't appear to be factory issue but I have fitted them as I found them and the clutch appears to be fine. Does anybody know whether they should be there or not ? I apologise if my description is a bit poor but I don't know what the proper name for such parts are.
Also, if someone has access to a diagram of the clutch assembly for my bike I would I would be gratefull of any help. regards. Gareth
Exhaust Packing
in Beta
Posted
Thanks jon for the advice. Your insight into exhaust design is much appreciated. I am going to repack it again today and give it a blast this afternoon to test whether there is any change.
I didnt do anything else to the engine as it was working fine. I kept the carb set as it was as it was spot on. The only thing I did do was replace the overflow pipes to the carb. I doing this I took some advice from this site and drilled a tiny hole into the oveflow pipes above the height of the float chamber to prevent the syphoning that occurs with mikuni carbs. This seems to have worked.
Gareth