Bought a 08 rev 4. Pick it up saturday. Will keep you posted as to how it all goes. Very excited !!! Also have any of you guys had trouble with the kickstart rubbing the frame. The guy who I have bought it off said that he had to file down the kickstart to make it a good fit. This is despite it being a modified kickstart which beta supplied. Any other things i need to be carefull with ?
Thanks guys for all your advice. I really don't know which one to go for. i've owned Betas recently and have loved every minute of my Beta rev (except the stator problem) so i am very tempted to try the beta. I don't use a lot of power in sections and I think the sherco may be a bit of a brute. I will keep you posted. Any more advice will be greatfully recieved.
Hi there. Decided to give the four strokes a bit of a go. I think it would be a good choice considering the forthcoming welsh winter mud fests that seem to plague most events. Was just wondering whether the 08 Beta 4t is better than the 08 Sherco 320 4t. What are their strengths and weaknesses ? I've heard the Sherco clutch is a bit of an on/off situation. I know I have left out Montesa in this comparison but I simply can't afford a recent one.
Hi there. I've got to take the flywheel off to get to my stator as there is no spark. I am still hoping to discover it is just the woodruff key thats sheared but I think I am being optimistic. Just ordered a flywheel puller. Was wondering if one of you could offer me a step by step guide to taking the flywheel off. Does the main flywheel nut unscrew anti-clockwise ? Can I do it without a flywheel holding tool. How do I use the flywheel puller ? I have searched this forum and it seems I need an impact ratchet to do it which I don't have. All your help would be greatly appreciated.
I wish it was a plug problem. I carry a spare plug, levers and mini tool kit whenever I get on the bike. I've ben caught out too many times before !!!! The first thing I did was try a new plug and check for a spark. When I realised it wasn't sparking I knew it was something I couldn't repair at the bottom of a pit. Got a day off tommorow so I'm going to check all the connections one final time before i order a new stator or get mine re-conditioned. But i think it is the stator for deffo sadly.
I don't want to give Beta a slagging off as I have had this bike over two years and this is my first stator problem. All bikes have a weakness I suppose as do their riders. I have been in contact with West Country Windings and they will test and rewind my staor for
Hi there. Bloody bike died at the bottom of a pit. Just stopped. No spark. I have checked everything and all the conectors and kill switch look together. I iamgine this is the stator that has gone. It was running perfectly before it stopped. Do people agree ? Why didn't it happen at the top of the pit. It took 3 of us to drag the f*****g thing to the top !!!
Hi there. Just finished decoking my front pipe and silencer and the bike sounds and revs so much better than it did. I did it by soaking the pipe in petrol and throwing a match at it and running like hell. The pipe burned for ages and after a light tap with a rubber mallet all the old carbon came out. I was wondering whether I could use the same technique on the aluminium midbox or is there a danger of it melting ? Am i correct in thinking the mesh inside the mid box is steel rather than aluminium ? I was wondering whether anybody has used this technique on the midbox. I don't have access to oxy-acetelene or a propane burner. I know I can't use anything caustic as it reacts with aluminium. Apologies if someone has allready posed this question but I couldn't find an appropriate answer on the forum. Regards. Gareth
I've had my Gaerne boots for about a year and a half. Allways oil them and dry properly. Do about 1 trial a month and practice once a week. Noticed that the stitching on the left boot has broken and the leather is starting to come away from the rubber sole. Taken the boot to a couple of cobblers and none of the say they can repair it. Apart from this area of stitching breaking, the boots are in really good condition but it looks like they are going to be chucked if they can't be repaired. This seems crazy as I had my last pair of boots for years. Was wondering if anybody else had had trouble with Gaerne boots and how long do people tend to get out of their boots ? I doubt I can take them back after a year and a half either. Gutted !!!
You riding tommorow for the Team Trial ? Me and Dave are riding together to fly the flag for Merthyr. Looking forward to it. Havent done a trial in 2 months for various reasons. It's going to p*** down !!!!
Did all that. Used the broom handle. Couldn't tighten it up any more. When I put forks back together and in the triple clamps with wheel on it still rotates. I think I am just being over fussy. When I say it rotates I am really pushing hard on the allen bolt for it to do so. I think it is satisfactory. Would anybody mind having a go at turning their left fork drain bolt and seeing if it roates under pressure ? Regards. Gareth
Thanks for the advice. I am on my own tommorow so wont be able to get anybody to help me. Would I be able to get the same effect from strapping the bike down with ratchet straps till the forks bottom and then try tightening it up ? Obviously this would be with spring in and fork cap screwed in.
Hi there. Just changed the oil in my 04 Beta Rev 250 forks. Upon assembling the forks I found that the allen bolt which is the drain bolt on the left hand fork seems to keep rotating. It has tightened up to a satisfactory torque feeling but it rotates when you try to really tighten it. The thread is abseloutely fine. Is this normal ? It is certainly tight enough to not come loose but the right hand drain bolt tightened up to a point it couldn't go further and I expected the same of the left. I appreciate the left and right are tottally different with one being a damper and the other a spring. I am sure the last time I did the forks I didn't experience this. Is it ok to leave it like this ?
You can gain a bit more adjustment from the cable itself. There are adjusters at the top of the cable. Then if that is still not sufficent, take off the flywheel cover and you will see a nut with a little cross headed bolt sitting inside it. This is situated roughly below where the clutch arm goes into the crankcases. This is the clutch release mechanism. The Haynes manual has a good section on how to set it. Best of luck. Gaz
If your forks are sticking down either they are bone dry or bent. Your fork slider may have taken an impact and the only way you can tell is to take it off and shine a torch down it and look for any high spots. Most engineers with a lathe could restore this for you. Rolling the fork leg along a flat surface will tell you if it's bent. Again if it is bent this can easily be corrected by a specialist. Best of luck. Gareth
Good news. Bike started first kick. Runs sweet as a nut again. It must have been the carb. Thank god I don't have to do those crank seals as I was dreading that job. Thanks for all your advice. Until the next time !!!!!!!
Thanks Tony. just stripped the carb down and I think you could definately be onto something. The inline fuel filter seemed full of some white stuff and inside the float bowl seemed rather sticky. I have a horrible feeling that this is some sort of fibreglass residue from a new tank. Perhaps I hadnt flushed it through as much as I should have. The jets didn't seem too bad but I have blown them all through as a matter of course and reset the float hieght. Im going to empty the tank in case it is contaminated and put some fresh fuel in and see how it goes. I will sadly have to wait for a gasket as it is damaged beyond repair when I took it out. I will keep you posted as to my success.
Thanks for everybody's input. Well i shall strip the carb down and have a look. I have ordered a new reed block gasket so will have to wait for that till I fire it up. Would a blocked jetcause it to run so hot though ? I must confess I have forgottten how hot the cyclinders get on air cooled bikes having owned modern bikes for so long. It did seem rather hot considering it had been running so long.
Also if the crank seals have gone. What are the symptoms ?
Right. Thanks for that. I will give that a go. But I would be suprised as there is a fuel fliter in line. I use the same filter on my beta and i have never had any trouble witht the carb. But if it saves me pulling the engine apart again it can only be worth a try !!!
Thanks for your response. Yep, I am pretty certain the carb is set up right. I have fitted a new carb overhaul kit to it so all is as good as it can get there. The tap is brand new as I have fitted a Sammy miller seat and tank combo unit. I fitted an in line fuel filter too so I can see that fuel is running. The bike was running before I redid the gears / selector arm only this week. I had done a few laps up the street to ckeck the gears were all in sync. I am just suprised how the seals has gone so quickly ? I am struggling to work out what else it could be ?
After spending a bloody whole week getting the gears nicely synchronised with no more phantom neutrals I was so looking forward to taking my bike for it's maiden run up the woods. Fired it up ok but it will only run with choke in and when the choke is off it soon dies. I spoke to the nice chap at TY trials and he said it sounds like the crank seals have gone. I just can't understand how they have gone so quickly as I had taken it for a quick rip up the street and it was running nicely but perhaps it was a bit hot. There doesnt seem to be any oil in the flywheel. Could it be anything else ? It feels like a air leak. Does anybody put any additional gasket sealant between the reed valve assembly and the inlet stub ? I have ordered new crank seals but I was just wondering if anybody thought it could be anything else before I take the engine apart again !!!!
The Cooper rack is good. I've had mine for years with no problems. The weight of the bike stops it from bouncing out as does how you strap the bike on. I strap the left side of the bike (closest to the bumper) on first with a strap from the yoke down to the strap loop on the towbar bracket. I then strap the right side of the bike on by hooking the straps through the frame and hookning it round the other strap loop on the towbar bracket. When you tighten this strap it pulls down on the bike which in turn pulls the bike away from the car and compresses the suspension. Use good straps as if it comes loose you have got big problems. Best of luck. Gaz
08 Beta 4t Or 08 Sherco 320 4t
in Four-Stroke
Posted
Bought a 08 rev 4. Pick it up saturday. Will keep you posted as to how it all goes. Very excited !!! Also have any of you guys had trouble with the kickstart rubbing the frame. The guy who I have bought it off said that he had to file down the kickstart to make it a good fit. This is despite it being a modified kickstart which beta supplied. Any other things i need to be carefull with ?
Gareth