I've drawn a total blank with my rear brake. Basically I can't get close to the wheel locking out. Even with brake pedal fully compressed it still rotates. I think I've done everything to remedy the situation and this includes :-
- New pads which are 1 trial old.
- System re-bled. No air in system and good feel on the pedal.
- Pads cleaned after last trial and didn't seem contaminated.
- Pistons moving nicely in caliper.
- Disc rubbed down and cleaned with alchohol solution.
I really have drawn a blank. I had a dreadfull scorecard at the last trial as I just couldn't stop going down any of the big drops. Any ideas fellas ?
Saturday was the worst ride I have ever had in my trials career. During which I managed to bang my fork leg against a rather unfriendly rock. The scuff is about 1cm long and is more of an abrasion. The fork seems ok, doesn't seem to affect the working of it and the seal seems to be sealing. No evidence of oil on the leg. I've very lightly run some wet and dry over the area to make sure there are no proud edges. Does anybody know any good places where they do good repairs and any idea of the cost ? or is there anything else I could do to get rid of the blemish ? My bike is an 08 Rev4 and has black fork legs.
I have one of the stock screws on the bench if you would like a photo of what a stock screw looks like to help in knowing if you want to drill it out or leave it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a photo in a day or two.
Hi there
May have misread your post a bit. I thought you were offering to drill it. Apologies, it was very early in the morning. It's ok, I know what the stock air screw looks like. I just don't think it's worth the risk of drilling it unless I can be 100% sure I won't damage the thread. The carb is very expensive on the 4t as you know. The engineer who had a look at it for me is very gifted with how he machines things and even he gave odds of only 50/50 of getting it out undamaged. It just isn't worth the risk as I can't afford a new carb and the bike runs sweetly in the position it is in. I'm not planning on riding anywhere low, high altitude so i think I will just have to put up with it. Thanks anyway. Gareth
I have one of the stock screws on the bench if you would like a photo of what a stock screw looks like to help in knowing if you want to drill it out or leave it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a photo in a day or two.
Been taking apart my 08 rev 4 carb. It's clearly never been touched and the bike hasn't had a great deal of use. But every screw on the carb is seized / over tightened by the factory. I had to use all the tricks in the book to get the screws out of the float bowl and diaphragm top. I'm not being a retard, these screws were jammed solid and had clearly been over tightened by whoever had assembled the carb. I have replaced these and greased the threads with nice stainless allen bolts so hopefully problem solved. But the airscrew just disolved when I put the screw driver on it. The screwdriver fitted perfectly. It too is jammed / seized in it's thread. I took the carb to a motorcycle engineer (I'm very lucky as he has a workshop a few streets away) and he said he had tried everything bar drilling and couldnt get it out. he didn't want to drill it and use a bolt extractor as I had said at least it is siezed in it's right spot and drilling it and getting it wrong could end up with me buying a new carb body. I'm gutted as I was going to fit one of those nify jitsie air screws. Has anybody else had difficulty with this carb ? I have to reluctantly accept it as jammed or risk drilling and ruining carb body which I can't afford to do.
Why not ? I'm sure at the time it was done the Beamish wasn't considered a classic. Who knew old twinshocks would become so saught after and valuable. I once grafted a TY175 engine into an XL185 chassis. Why did I do it ? I don't know but I enjoyed doing it and I was only 17 at the time. I even entered an enduro on it. It was only the exhaust and silencer that let me down as it was too narrow and smothered power. The silencer I actuallly made myself from scratch. Creating and modifying is a learning curve. I think we should respect peoples home made efforts rather than mocking them. Why don't people post more photos of their efforts on this site ?
I agree, definately blocked jets. Remove the float bowl and go to someone with compressed air and put an air line through. Holes are so small you dont want to jam any wire in them.
Thank you for reading what i'd said and 'getting it'. i was starting to think it was me not explaining myself very well!
Cheers
To be fair. Your first question you posed was ''Who is the Sportsman class really aimed at?''. My post was a response to this question. To summarise my thoughts in a brief synopsis 'people should ride whatever class they want to ride'. I had read what you had said and yes i did get it.
Im probably going to annoy everybody here but I think people should just be allowed to ride whatever route they wish. It's up to them. For god sake they are paying to ride so let them have that choice. Who cares if they win or not ? It's not affecting how you ride your own bike is it ? Trials (and sport in general) isn't just about winning or losing. It's about having fun on your bike. So if somebody wants to clean every section to get their sense of achievement well let them do so. At the same time encouragement should be given to somebody who has stepped up a class and is going round with a scorecard of 5's and 3's. It's an old cliche but 'its the taking part that counts'. Our club has a good plicy that if you win your class, the year after you can only compete in the same class on a non award basis. That way, for those people who gain pleasure from polishing trophies who didn't win, they get to have a better chance of winning silverware the next time.
Had same thing happened on my 08 rev 4 when i had it. plug looked like it was sparking but it was all over the place. It had gone pop with revving it. Try a new plug in first thats all that was wrong with mine.
Sounds like you could have water in the carb float bowl at full revs the bike will die as soon as it sucks up a gulp of water... (this has happend to a few of use while out riding and we soon got it sorted with a 17mm spanner.
I would crack the bottom float bowl nut off and you will probably see water in the nut.
What you explained does sound like the water problem.
Only other thing is are you still using the std beta kill switch ?
Cheers
Good advice everybody. I hope it is the carb as it is a cheap and easy fix. I have changed the killswitch for a yamaha one.
Is it an 07 or o8 bike? is the airbox clean when did you clean the carb last?
it's an 08. No I haven't cleaned the carb for a while. Perhaps that should be my first port of call. I would expect it to splutter with carb problems. It just died in seconds as if someone had turned the engine off. Airbox is cleaned every outing
In a trial today and was blasting up a graded hill climb when all power just faded. Bike stopped. Couldn't be kicked over. There appears to be a spark at the plug. Fuel is in the tank as I had just refilled for the 3rd lap. Managed to get the bike going but it would only idle on full throttle. It was enough for me to limp back to the van with me pushing it. What do people reckon this could be ? It's dark so i haven't had the chance to give it a once over yet. When it died on the hillclimb it was just like my stator failing on my Rev3 but i didn't think the rev4 had these problems. Would appreciate your advice. Carb or electrics ?
This problem was so common with TY's that my local shop use to have an exchange service for the damaged casing. From what i remember it's ok to weld. I've got a restored TY myself now and I'm very carefull kicking it over as my cases are polished and crack free. I've even set the kickstart back a few turns on the splines so that it doiesn't jolt forward. This does however lessen your kicking arc but it's beter than a cracked casing.
I agree. My practice wheel has a tube in it as I just can't be bothered to waste a tube of Dr Sludge in an effort to get a good seal. I must have ridden 100 hours plus on it and it's never slipped or burst. I accept you can't ride with as low a psi and perhaps the tyre doesn't work as well but not all of us are riding in the world champs are we.
Could anybody tell me why rear shocks often have a spherical bearing. It's not as if the shock moves from side to side in the swing arm or does it twist a bit ? They only go up and down don't they. Why not a roller bearing or ballrace ? The lower shock bearing on my beta is a bugger to get out and usually requires a pneumatic press to get it out which I don't have. It's in such a position that it is allways going to get a lot of abuse from either dirt flying off the tyre or water from the jetwash. Has anybody machined a bush system instead or fitted a different type of bearing which would give a greater longevity and be easier to replace. The spherical bearings are nearly
I think you just need to let this one go and move on. When you start riding the harder routes you will be getting loads of 5's anyway. It's all part of the learning curve. 5's are far easier to add up too. Your lucky to have somewhere to practice in all fairness !!!
Hi there. Well I got the bike to the trial and the brake worked ok. When I stripped the master cylinder down the washer behind the circlip had become concaved. I presumed this should be flat so i straightened it. I believe it was this offending part that was preventing the plunger from moving back enough. I reassembled the cylinder and I back bled the system again. Striaght away the brake felt better. I still think there are tiny bits of air in the system but I have now been shown how to get these little bubbles out by tapping the lever gently. I will do this throughout the week. Thanks for all your help. Gaz
Thanks for that. That is something I havent done yet. It would be good if it is as it would mean not having to strip down the whole cylinder. Will let you know the outcome.
(this has happend to a few of use while out riding and we soon got it sorted with a 17mm spanner.
Rear brake problems
in Beta
Posted
Yes i do