Currently doing a full restoration of a 1978 TY175 ? Anybody know what colour the frame and swing arm should be. It's got so many layers of paint on it it is hard to tell if the original was red or silver. Also what colour for the chain tensioner ? Any help much appreciated.
Just wondered what oil you were all using in your gearbox ? What weight and what brand ? Fully synthetic or mineral ? I use ATF fluid in my Beta to good effect and was wondering if anybody uses this in their TY 175?
Was wondering whether anybody knew if the fins on the cylinder and cylinder head are aluminium or some ferrous type metal. Just bought a Ty 175 and the cylinder and head look like they have more paint on them than a desert tank. Was hoping to have them shotblast and polished if they were aluminium. Has anybody tried this ?
Just bught an old TY175 to restore and am picking it up on sunday. The autolube has been taken out and I was just wondering what sort of pre-mix ratios people use. I run my Beta on a 70-1 semi synthetic mix so would the same be suitable ?
Also does anybody know if the TY175 has the dreaded Z spoke system. As I haven't seen the bike I can't tell and the guy I'm buying it off doesnt care what spokes it's got. The only reason I ask is because I had a TY250 mono which needed a wheel rebuilt and all the wheel re-builders near me refused to touch it because of the Z spokes.
Finally, does anybody know how the frame and engine numbers correlate to the year of prduction so I can work out how old the bike is ?
Looking forward to some good responses off you twinshock boys !!
The slime product DOES NOT work. I tried this first. I run tubeless MTB tyres with amazing results so i thought i'd try the MTB sealant. It worked. Note that it doesn't last for ever so you have to 'top it up in 6mths time.
Ralph
Sorry, are you saying that the slime works or that you found another product which did work. If so, what is it called. Thanks
First thing...... i'd find yourself a new bike shop. 15 quid to help you each time is taking the p*ss
Second... get down to the local bicycle shop and ask for a bottle of tyre sealant (Stans is one brand) which are mostly - 1 part liquid latex rubber to one part water. Squirt in 150-200ml through the valve hole with a pointy nozzle bottle (remove the valve core first). Ride your bike and the leaking will stop the next day. Happy me with this trick.
Ralphy
I may give that a go. I have seen that tyre slime stuff advertised for tubed bicycle tyres and I was wondering if it would work. I think it may even come with a tool to remove the valve core. Thanks for that.
Take off the rim tape and clean up the rim. Put plenty of grease on the rim covering all the spoke ends and coat the underside of the new rim tape and replace. Some will recomend using Sikaflex to stick the rim tape on instead. The choice is yours.
Beats messing with a tube and your tyre performance will be improved. They are made tubeless for a reason!!
I appreciate your opinion but the reason I want to go for a tube is more economical than performance related. I don't have a compressor to inflate the tyres to get them to sit on the rim and my local shop charges me
Take off the rim tape and clean up the rim. Put plenty of grease on the rim covering all the spoke ends and coat the underside of the new rim tape and replace. Some will recomend using Sikaflex to stick the rim tape on instead. The choice is yours.
Beats messing with a tube and your tyre performance will be improved. They are made tubeless for a reason!!
I appreciate your opinion but the reason I want to go for a tube is more economical than performance related. I don't have a compressor to inflate the tyres to get them to sit on the rim and my local shop charges me
Thanks for all your advice. I think I will go with the heavy duty inner tube and say goodbye to these air leaks. Any more advice will be welcomed. Thanks. Gaz
Thanks gents. ran 12 volts through fan and it worked fine. Checked thermostat and that is fine. So it must be the voltage regualtor. Have ordered one so I will wait to see how it goes. Just one of the rad pipes looked a bit dodgy so I've changed one of those too. Cheers. gaz
I had a fan fail on my Techno. It was a japanese one and I found a second hand replacement from my local bike wreckers from a ZZR 250 kawasaki or something like that. It might pay to check and see if you can revolve it easily by hand. If not chase up a new one. The other thing I found (with the Techno at least) was that the stator was supplying the fan with over 50 volts at times. I fitted an aftermarket regulator to keep it at 12 volts and it has been good so far (2 years now).
HTH,
Cheers,
Stork
Thanks for that advice. I too think it is the fan that needs replacing. I have not taken it off before but it looks like the radiator will have to come off in order for me to access it. Any ideas ? As the bike is five years old I was thinking I may replace the hoses whilst I am at it too.
Hi there. In a competition today my 04 Beta Rev 250 started to boil. Steam was flying out of the valve at the top of the rad on the final lap and I had to retire or face a costly siezure. I thought the thermostat may have gone again (I replaced it six months ago), so I bypassed it and the fan still seems problematic. Even with the thermostat bypassed the fan seemed intermittent and doesnt seem to spin with the same speed it use too. I suspect that the fan is the problem but why when the thermostat has been bypassed does it not come on permenantly and why is it spinning so slowly. I would be gratefull if anbody could shed some light on this.
I too am slightly anal and wash it after every ride as soon as I get home. The mud in south wales seems to set like cement if you leave it over night. To be honest, I don't even see it as a chore. I find it quite relaxing too. It is even more pleasant with a cold beer. To be a bit more enviromentally friendly I connected a drainpipe to a waterbut and use the water with my jetwash. I just wish I could be bothered to clean my house too !!!
I can't speak for everyone but this is what I do. Once I've jetwashed the bike and got all the mud off it I then jetwash the chain by just spinning the rear wheel so the chain is moving and blast the chain whilst it is rotating until all the links are clean. The bike is on a paddock stand to do this. Once washed I spin the rear wheel to get the chain spinning and this gets all the water out of it. I wait for it to dry and then coat the chain in Putoline DX11 which comes in a spray can. DX11 is good as it is pretty sticky and doesnt leave a bad residue. This seems to work for me.
Over a year ago I bought a heavy duty rubber shock gaurd from e bay for my Beta. After much abuse it has finally shown signs of wear and needs to be replaced. But I can't find another one anywhere. Was wondering if anybody else bought one and if so do they know who is selling them? They are so much stronger than the original and reasonably priced too.
Right then. Re-packed exhaust and had a good spin on the bike. The bike is far better now at high revs. I really had jam packed the packing material in as I have only put back in about half of what I took out. Still sounds good with far less packing. Thanks for everybodies advice.
1978 Ty175 - What Colour ?
in Yamaha
Posted
Currently doing a full restoration of a 1978 TY175 ? Anybody know what colour the frame and swing arm should be. It's got so many layers of paint on it it is hard to tell if the original was red or silver. Also what colour for the chain tensioner ? Any help much appreciated.
gareth