jmlfin

Hi I have 4RT 2008 bike and been very very happy with it. Im a club rider with 3+ years of experience. 4RT suites me absolutely perfectly, but sometimes I find it lacking power. This particularly doesnt mean that it wouldnt have enough power, but as my wrists are very tight (I cant for example turn the handlebar from 0-max with one turn), its difficult to turn the gasbar fast/far enought to get the max power out instantly. Since some weeks now, Ive tried to get rid of this problem by turning the gashandle with the front brake leveller downwards and adjusted the bar itself more frontwards to get less wrist angle. These are helping, but still I wonder if there is something more I can do. I thought of changing the gashandle to fast one and wondered also if I could remap the engine so that it would be more aggressive in lower revs. I dont know if remapping is possible to normal 4RT 2008 or if its even a solution at all to my strange problem, but Im trying to think of everything to get this problem solved. Any help or ideas?

I was really worried to do my first oil change also. I tried to read all possible information how to do it most convenient way, copied the manual pages about this (although its really useless) and also called importer. In the end I was really surprised how easy it was after all. It took about 20 minutes to do after all the oil was out and although I have to admit that its real tricky to get the filter plate out in correct position, with patient it was a piece of cake. Normally if there is anything Im not sure of, I will take my bike to importer and let them do it. Now when its done, Im really glad that it was a lot less work than I expected. As we need to wait few months before the season starts here in Finland, I have plenty of time to polish and tune my bike. I absolutely love 4RT as it completely changed my experience of riding. Despite oil change kind of issues, that might sound difficult or at least is hard work, Montesa 4RT is fantastic bike to service as there isnt much to do anyway. Wishing you all excellent season with your 4RT`s!

This might be obvious for most of you, but I will say it anyway. Every single time you fall with the bike, you should always check that the throttle is moving like it should. Ive seen numerous times, riders falling and starting the engine just to realise that the cable has gone of from the rubber cover or handlebar is stuck, causing the motor to rev up like hell. I use handlebar nuts and sometimes when it hits a tree or rock, it tightens up agains throttlebar restricting it to move properly. When you remember this from the beginning, you will remember it for the rest of your life.

HI As already said, I had the same problem. I was used to adjust the throttle so that it didnt have any slag in my old bike (Beta Rev3). I did the same thing with new 4RT and it didnt start. I also looked everything else but nothing helped. In the end I drove to imported and I was so embarrased to realise that it was this stupid mistake I made myself. Well, you always learn something new ;-)

Hi I wonder does anyone have bad or good experiences of different manufacturers that supply these carbon "tuning protection parts"? Why I ask this is that I have ordered these parts from three different manufacturers and need to say that quality varies too much. Prices arent that different but still for example my exhaust protection plate from a Italian Montesa Team manufacturer (cant remember the name... ooh) was really poor. I needed to enlarge the bolt holes and when I finally managed to mount it I noticed that it was sticking from the framework 2 cm out so that my leg was scratching it. Also the material was not like expected. It went "grey" as the outer membrane of the material got loose in a matter of few hours. I didnt mind the looks but the sticking edge was quite uncomfortable. I decided to order new exhaust plate from JT7 and got it today. Mounted it few hours ago and its like it would have been manufactured by the Montesa factory. Its really that much better. At the same time I received tank cover and both "cheek" carbon plates from Mitani. Tank protector is mounted and it fitted like a glow. I dont know about these cheek covers, but if they fit as nicely as they look, I shouldnt be worried. Btw. Does anyone know can these "cheeks" be mounted without taking the cheek plates completely away which means naturally oil changes to both sides? Mitani had only Japanies instructions with it and I still wonder if the material is really that strong that it can hold the pressure these bolts should be tightened against the motor (I mean that the bolts wont "screw" the protectors material and get loose damaging motor as oils comes out). I know that I might sound over protective, but dont like to do anything stupid with my new 2008 4RT

I dont see any reason why you couldnt use the stiff ones. I have also thought of changing it but havent got the new pieces yet here.

Hi I need to change my gearbox oils as well and looked the price in Finland for ELF HTX740. Its 40 euros / litre or 68 euros / 2 litres. I then looked at the price in USA and its 36 dollars/litre which is 24 euros. I find local prices ridiculous and really cant understand this at all. If we would only have more 4RT`s around, I would definitively order a 10 pack from USA and share the benefit with my fellow riders. But as we all know, 25 euros or 40 euros, its the same. That 15 euros will still be spent for beer

Any links to H&D pages or information where to order one?

HI My new 2008 4RT is arriving next week. I would like to update it with some fancy after market parts but were to buy these from? USA would be nice as the dollar is weak but any shop with parts is appreciated.

The tank that I used was brand new, bought it as I tanked the gas. Mixed the oil and in it went. But as said, its working now (I believe) although not anymore under my feet so I dont have to worry this anymore. Just wanted to explain thoroughly what I experienced and stress that although this happened to me, Im not complaning Beta in general as I have always find it being one of the best. My friends bike was perfect from the beginning, many though have had problems with carb settings and float level as the bike stalls when in angle. Actually I noticed my problems first time when I pumped the front suspension and in a second it just died... every single time it was either in angle or suspension was pumped and not like after a while but not more than than a blink of an eye. Just simply stopped running. We cleaned the carburator several times, checked the needle position and adjusted the float level. Changed different gas, even drained the fuel system and filled it from another gas tank. And also changed the oil mixture from 2% to normal 1.5%. Nothing helped. We opened the reedvalve, changed carb throat just to be sure (btw, this is so thick that its hard to even imagine it would brake under stress of taking the carb of or putting it on. Maybe after many years or when -20 frost but not in normal conditions). Im not that technical, but I believe we did almost everything there is to do with my bike. We also checked the crankshaft gasket and timing. Local importer was very helpful as said, so I believe nothing more I could do about this.

You are very right. I was not referring to Keihin because of dirt getting in there but more or less the fact that so many have had problems with setting it up properly. Manufacturer attached a note and a package of jets and a needle to all first stage delivery bikes. In my mind this means that it wasnt properly tested by Beta and that "fix this before you ride" message was quite funny. On the other hand, those first stage delivery bikes havent had a problem but those that should have been "already tested and fixed" seem to have it. Its mainly float level and needle. I have also seen a tape aside of carb that says "ok". This was placed by manufacturer. I didnt have this, my friend did and his is working fine. I dont want to blame anyone, either carb or beta, but the fact is that there are way too many problems in the first place to be fixed with the carb, that although I do clearly understand that we are talking about racing bikes, I still dont think thats its my problem to pay the bike and then service it before I can run with it. Its a shame for the importers, it means more work and less profit as I dont think that manufacturer really compensates their work. Okey its a new set of package with Keihin carbs, but still....

I need to update my situation. First of all, my bike must have been a monday piece. After three runs we didnt manage to get it running like it should. I was so frustrated and dissappointed but naturally willing to get it working. I asked the importer to take it with him and adjust everything so that it would work (I had opened the carb like 10 times, so I really know now how to do it - its actually not that tricky at all and takes about 2 min). He didnt manage to get it working by adjusting the floating level or anything else that can be done without major changes. He then ordered new carb from manufacturer. It came in 22 hours that in these circumstances is absolutely awesome. He changed it on friday evening and brought the bike to a training camp next saturday morning. Bike was working ok, but wasnt responding to low revs like would be expected. It was also leaking fuel so much that I had to refill the tank just after light 2 hours of driving.... something wasnt right. I then took it home and next time when I was riding I noticed that there is something very strange. Engine was knocking like it would run very lean. I came back after 20 min of ridind and we tried to service it there. Nothing helped. Importer then kindly suggested that lets go to his place and take a look at it. We opened everything and finally as nothing could be found, we opened the new carb and noticed that there were a lot of dirt inside the cup and jets (why not do it earlier - because he had opened it and we couldnt believe that just after few hours drive it would be that dirty). After cleaning the carb it ran nicely. I took it home and next time when I drove it, it was coughing in the beginning and again, in low revs it wasnt responding to throtle. It did raise the revs but came back down like with multiple up`s and downs. I then asked an elite guy to test it and he said immediately that this isnt working like it should. I then asked another guy and same response, so at this point I could say finally that it wasnt between my ears. Well anyway, anyone can imagine how dissappointed I was, although I have to say that Beta`s importer was more than helpful but with limited knowledge and experience of this new Rev3 with Keihin, he wasnt able to help in the end. Its sad to say but I dont like to pay almost 6000e for a new bike that isnt working from day one. Mine was obviously a "monday piece" but I know its serviced and repaired now and runs nicely. Yes .... I got so frustrated that I returned the bike with a gentleman`s handshake with the importer. He did everything he could and I need to thank him, but this time my patience ran out. I need to stress here that there were nothing wrong with the bike, only the carb. It seems to be causing a lot of trouble for us new Beta owners. As Im more or less warming up an old hobby, I dont like to spend hours and hours repairing my new bike. For someone that has the facility, time and experience might disagree with me, but this is the case anyway. New Beta is fantastic piece of trial bike, but unfortunately manufacturer`s quality control with new Keihin seems to hit the rocks. I still dont think that buyer should repair, adjust and service new bike and spend hours and hours just to make it work.

Thanks! Would this be something that should be used in normal conditions, I mean, its still SSDT that requires in my understanding totally different setups if you like to finish the run?

Anyone here who would tell me what carb setup to use with new 2008 250cc Keihin? Its brand new and wont work at all in low revs and stalls when even little bit in an angle. I have strong feelings its the float level, but would help to know what needle position to use, which jets and how much I should open the mixture screw. And this bike is not the first ones that were equipped with manufacturers note "please change the needle and jets to make it work". Nope.... my friend has one and its working nicely, mines not.... and he didnt even touch the carb although instructed so.

I got my bike a month ago. Today was the first real opportunity to test it properly so I took it like 50km from us to a trial practising place. It started very nicely, I warmed it up like 10 minutes (just to be sure) and then jumped to woods. But it was awful. I thouhgt it hadnt warmed enough so I rode like 10 min more but nothing changed. I realised that when giving little bit more gas, it is running nicely and have power and torque. But when driving slowly and when you would need some power, it was struggling to even keep alive the engine. I then noticed that if I was in somewhat of an angle, the idle wasnt even working and the engine stopped. When in level, it was running also in idle. I then took the bike down to parking place and let it run. I lifted rear tyre up and back down and it stopped. - 3 degrees of celsius - Quite humid and windy My first opportunity to test it was at works parking place. I felt that (after 270cc) the engine wasnt that powerful and low rev torque was missing, but thought it was just because of new bike (temperature maybe +3-5 celsius). Second time when I tested, it was 12+ celsius and it was working very nicely, I even thought that I was stupid to even think that it was so much less powerful and forget the whole issue. - 12 degrees - nice and dry I havent touched anything between these runs. The only thing I did was that I filled the tank with 102 octane gas and used 2% oil mixture as recommend by the importer. Now after receiving news from Beta factory that you should check float level and possibly adjust the needle, I wondered what the hell... they sure dont seem to do these things at factory although first bikes were delivered 6 months ago and actually friend of mine got his then and also received instructions to immediately change needle and float level. But the big difference here is that his bike has been used without any changes since 6 months (not even touched the carb) and mine, which was informed to be"repaired and updated version by the factory so you shouldnt do anything" is now impossible to ride. And now we have this new carb float level instructions that dont seem to effect the older models. Im quite p****d because I would assume that a factory would have tested new model with changes and when mine isnt even from the first pack or even near, it should work at least as good as the first bikes manufactured. I hate to open the carb as its in such a stuffed place (particularly as I need to do it out in my backyard where temperature is now +2.4) but I just need to do it. Anyway, you who have experience of this 2008 250cc bike with Keihin, are you able to send me information what needle/position and jet to use and how much should I open the air screw? One last question: Can it make such a difference that 12+ degrees it works fine, but 3 degrees its totally usable? Can the 102 gas do this? What about the mixture screw (although not even touched between any of these runs).

Hi I just bought older ym. 2001 315R from my friend. I serviced it today and noticed that under the mudguard where the airfilter is there`s a screw that in my believe is the adjuster for rear suspension. I tried to adjust it, but although it seems to be in good conditions Im not able to adjust it either way. Is there a trick to do this or what might be the problem?

Aint this because 08 bike has black painted bar that 07 and older ones didnt have?

If you really are a beginner like me, you shouldnt worry too much about hopping your rear. Learn to turn the bike first with minimum circle. This might sound easy but its all about technic and understanding what is the best way to do it. I tried also to work my rear hopping, until I really realised that you need to do things step by step. I had the chance to be part of a training group where we had a real pro trainer. He really got into this basic trial thing and learned the technique to do it. You need to loosen your bike from your knees, lift your outside elbow and knee and try to tilt your bike a lot. For me it sounded unlogical. Why to turn the bike so that tires will not have all the grip it would with keeping it horisontal? Well... you will see that its turning much better and amazingly, keeping the grip even more. I also believe that its nice to learn back hopping etc. in a while, but lets be realistic. You might compete or not, but when you have a tight situation and you should turn NOW and not after you are ready, what would you do? Wait for the best balance and the chance to hop your rear or do the bacis turning with best possible turning technique? Before you have basic actions in your head like an automatic movement, dont try to jump to another level and think that as you know how to do a back flip, it will overrun good turning technique. I suck, but as long as I understand that without being able to do the very basic movements, there is no way to jump to more complicated issues!

Sorry that I cant help you as I do not have any personal experience of this model. But, as Im also thinking of buying 4 stroke for next season, it would be very interesting if anyone can compare the good/bad points of todays two main choices Beta Rev-4 vs Montesa 4RT.

I have also asked new 2007-2006 yearmodel bikes from USA and there really are quite many in the market. You can for example get 4RT Montesa 2006 and 2007 models and also Repsol versions. Here in Finland, there not a chance of this. Importer bring bikes in based on preorders which in my opinion is very understandable.

I dont understand why this issue is so difficult that you need to think of ratios etc? Its quite simple. Buy a 10 litre canister. Use high quality fully syntetic oil like Castrol TTS. Pour 1.5dl oil to canister and then fill it with 10 litres of 99+ gasoline. If you have the possibility, you can use also racing fuels that are like 102+ octanes. With this oil mixture you are safe and the bike dont smoke that much. However, just a hint. After driving few hours, "clean" the engine and exhaust every time after practising by driving with 6th gear 1-2 minutes with full throttle if possible. Leave the bike running for 3-5 minutes. You will see that it is smoking like hell which means that its burning carbon deposit and you will notice that next time your bike is revving clearly and you enjoy driving more. This hint is just because, when you use too fat mixture, low quality oil or 95 octane gasoline, your bike is soon absolutely blocked-up. Therefore I really suggest that invest more money and use high quality oil and gasoline. In the end you will end up saving not only money put servicing as well!

I was driving today with new suspension settings. I had to try very active one and adjusted only rear end 2 turns anti clockwise. I do admit that it might just be in between my ears, but as I`m training a lot to be able to move rear end by lifting it up and flipping aside, it seemed to me that this really helped by bouncing the tyre quicker up without using so much energy. I also noticed that rear is now reacting sooner than front, so maybe I should change the front as well.... testing testing testing..... this is the only way for me at least

Suspension is something many of us wonder a lot. I have spend a lot of time trying to realise how the bikes handling really change when adjusting it and havent really seen a lot of difference as I do not not have that much experience. On the other hand, as I`m slowly now learning how to pump and adjust my line by moving front or rear tyre with clutch+brakes I have noticed that for example adjusting rear shock anti-clockwise I`m getting more response for the movement I`m trying to achieve by lifting the rear wheel and turning it to side. Those who are more experienced on the other hand have recommended that beginners like me should not have "active" suspension as it tends to loosen the tyres from the surface and cause grip problems. As with the cars, wet track means flexible suspension and dry more agressive one. Its always naturally a compromise which is based on your skills, driving style and personal needs. Beta`s manual is suggesting "neutral" setting which means right side should be 15 clicks from full anti-clockwise up. Spring tension is suggested to be 10+ round when your weight is more than 80 kg. If you are a beginner like me, I would suggest a more loose preload like 5-7 turns (left side) and maybe 15-20 clicks on the right hand side. With this setup I believe you should have enough softness when you hit objects and not too much rebound which will unbalance the bike and loose grip. And when you develop your skills and need more "trick" setup, just turn the right hand side down 5-7 clicks and put more preload. But, what ever you do, please keep in mind that most important thing is to make sure that front and rear suspension work together. You can test this by pushing down your bike from the peg very hard with your foot and see if it goes down and up at the same time on both ends. Maybe someone with more years can help you more as this is just my own experience and logic !!

I little bit disagree with feetup69`s comments on difference between 250 and 270. I have tried to read every single article about these two bikes and in all cases, it has been said that 270 is for pro`s or world tour riders. To justify my comment, I need to admit that I have had both bikes and really liked the 250 more. I`m not a pro or have even several years of experience. However, I wouldnt like to call myself total beginner either as I did ride some years in my early teenage years. Actually my first bike was Techno 1995 so I have experience of that as well. But lets get to the point. 250 is much smoother in low revs and will be for most driver easier to ride when driving slowly, turning tightly and trying to control the bike with clutch. It still has enourmous amount of power, which most of us never use and can be also very tricky to handle when you get yourself in wrong places. I mean, 99% of us would be better riders with 250 in my opinion. I ride with 270 -06 Rev3 and as I have decided to change bike for next season, I have only two choices, new Beta 250 or new Montesa 4RT. I strongly believe that choosing 250 is a very good idea and that it will help me develop my skills much faster than trying to control "the beast". But, we all need to remember that as I have also tried many different bikes that are same model, year etc. there are differences between these individuals. Try and see yourself. But your initial question was, should you go for 2008 model? I really dont see why if you can save 1000+ cash and still have a new 2007 Rev3. The changes are more or less same every year and if you take a look at this list, it can be said that the facts havent changed this year either: REV-3 2-STROKE