trialsnutterman

I doubt it would just fall off, probably got knocked off or dislodged last time somebody filled the radiator maybe even at the factory if it's a new bike, then over time it has made its way down past the frame and radiator on to the floor. The cap has a sealing washer with a pressure relieve valve in it so it doesn't matter if it has the tube on or not, the tube is just to safely divert the hot steam down the side of the frame if the engine over heats.

Results sorted by finishing order here Oh and number of 1's 2's and 3's corrected.

Good find

Hi Neo Your talking about the breather pipe, yes your right these definatly don't want to be bunged up, in fact I even drill the left breather out as the right one tends to melt the plastic pipe sealing it closed as it is very close to the exhaust. The over flow is at the base of the bowl and may possibly help with the pressure equalisation if the breather where to get blocked but its main job is to prevent the bike flooding if the float valve gets stuck open for some reason. If you try bunging it up with a short bit of pipe with the end melted closed or folded over on its self and held with a cable tie, its is dead easy to remove replace for testing. Let us know how it goes.

If you bung up the overflow on the Keihin it will use the same amount or less fuel than the dellorto, depending on jetting. The dellorto doesn't have a overflow that's why they don't spill fuel. I've run my Keihin with the overflow bunged for the last 4 or 5 years, it runs fine the only time it does cause problems is when you drop/fall off the bike and sometimes when queueing on a extremely steep hill it can flood the bike slightly making it hard to start. It does make me slightly more environmentally friendly though.

I've found with the new KTM radiators you can run the water right up to the base of the filler neck and they don't spit any water out, so not far off full. Maybe you should try a new cap, there about

They are just the 08 frame decals, I think they are standard on the 07 too.

Have you got access to a big Lathe, might be best to turn them out, once they get really thin they will collapse really easy. Do the top one first then the spacer between the bushes should come out no problems then do the lower one.

You'll probably be ably to get the seal out with a self tapping screw, screw one or two into the seal and pull the seal out with pliers. I'm not sure how strong the bushes are, I'm thinking if they are relatively thin and flimsy you might be able to use a long thin screw driver to hammer one edge over so collapsing the bush in on it's self but you risk damaging the fork. Hopefully someone will come up with a better method.

I wasn't trying to upset him, sorry if it has! I guess he was thinking of a gasgas engine as they don't have a coolant passage through the base gasket.

If you take the barrel off again put a steel rule on edge across where the cases join together and look for a gap (or use feeler guages if you have them) between the case and rule hopefully there won't be one, if there is lets us know? The sealant may be the seal that is impregnated in to the gasket around the two coolant holes to stop the water leaking, if it is I would definitely put a new gasket in. If you've got the engine out tip it upside down to check that no water has got in with the barrel off obviously, rotate it forward so if there is any water it won't go into the bearings and it will stop any water from the coolant passages going in to the cases. The barrel should be tighten down using a torque wrench ideally to 2 kg.m, 19.62Nm (14.47ft lb) so it's not very tight i.e. don't go swinging on the spanner.

I though you were supposed to be a Sherco expert. You can probably tell us what the holes are for then on the front of the base gasket?

Sounds like the engine builder is useless, I'd expect a professional engine builder to do a leak down test at the very least after rebuilding a engine, this would have shown that the base gasket is leaking. I guessing for the water to be leaking the cases must be miles out of alignment, not good! Do you really want them doing any more damage? In answer to your question no it doesn't just mean that the nuts are not tight enough. Yes the barrel will at a minimum need to come off to as you say check for water and the reason why it is leaking, as dabomb say check for damage from the broken conrod, I wouldn't be surprised that what ever cause the rod to break caused other problems too, it may have possibly bent the cases for example. There isn't a drain on the cases.

Gearnes then you won't need the water proof socks!

Scorpaf Did your son ride the expert route at all last year? just trying to work out way he is not on the priority 1 list if he is capable of riding the Expert A. I shouldn't worry about there been 83 riders on the list, there is always loads more riders on the list than actually enter, last year I don't think a single one of the rounds had a full entry. I'm just a little worried every one may just enter the very first round as it is a new round to the championship and under a new format increasing interest. I reckon if he doesn't get in the first one he should easy get in to the 2nd round then scoring points shouldn't be a problem if he is Expert A standard so then he will be guaranteed a entry in the rest of the rounds I believe.

John If everyone was to enter the first round, probably won't happen but let say it did, who will take priority in the Expert B, I ask as there would be 60 ish entries if everyone entered without including the priority 2 riders hence some of the riders on the priority 1 list wouldn't get a ride, will it be on alphabetical order, ability or previous attendance.

Ipone Box 2 Synthesis is the recomended oil, I use it and I can't complain.

I'm not doubting it's there own and I've not seen it so I probably shouldn't be thinking it is a copy but look at the crank cases all the screws are in identical position to the Sherco ones, it does look like the cases on the greeves may have been machined more or possibly machined out of a solid billet but I'd have to look a bit closer to be sure. It would be interesting if they have, perhaps this is where some of the weight has been saved. My guess is Sherco have no legal design rights over their engine so Xispa and Greeves have taken it as a excellent starting point, copied everything and then trimmed parts down to reduce weight or changed them to improve the design, the Barrel and head on the Greeves is obviously different and they have given a good valid reason for why they think it is an improvement. Personally I can't wait for them both to come out and I hope they will both do well, I just hope it doesn't affect Shercos sales to much for them to survive these difficult times.

But could you take any of the engine parts and straight swap them, I reckon you could with the Sherco and the Xispa and by the look of it the Greeves as well they are that much of a copy. I can't think of any that straight swap on the Gasgas to the Sherco Obviously all trials bikes are going to be pretty similar and I think they will be for a long time to come, It would be nice to see something totally new but it's going to cost a small fortune to do it.

What a load of !*$@

Gaerne do a size 50 euro (14+ uk) trials boot

I always turn mine back around so the seals at the top out of the way of all the dirt, you have to be careful doing this as the earlier (06 caby & 07's possibly some 08's) adjustable rear shock units required the frame to be ground away so it wouldn't rub the frame. The delta link has definitely changed this year but I though it was just made larger to protect the bottom of the shock from rock impacts, I'm not sure if the leverage ratio has changed at all?

I think there American actually

I can't seriously see wd40 doing anything in a road trial, your chain gets pretty warm on the road. Wd40 was only ever meant to be a water displacer, this will probably be the reason why it works well for you, it stops your chain from going rusty, which I guess is the main reason for premature wear on most trials bike chains. I do reckon allot of chain lubes are to thick to do anything i.e. they aren't thin enough to penetrate down into the links.

I've used one of these for the last 6 years