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A friend's 2007 4RT Repsol Replica seems to have a far more instant throttle response compared to his previous 2005 standard 4RT. The result is far greater difficulty in finding or regaining grip. Does a 2007 4RT Repsol Replica have different ECU settings compared to the standard 2007 & 2005 bikes? With the CD and interface cable available which map(s) should the average club rider really load? At the moment we do not know which map is currently loaded, a previous owner may have had the ECU set to a non-standard map already. There is every chance this request may be going over old ground but there may also now be greater real world experience to hand.

I owned an earlier red 349 with the same small front hub as yours. The abutment for the front brake cable on this bike was bolted through the mudguard mounting lug on the fork leg, above where your abutment is bolted now. This might correct your cable length. Also on steep drops the bike had a tendency to tuck under when the front brake was on. This was caused by the torque arm being too close to the brake lever and the two binding on each other when the brake was on hard. A small amount of material had to be filed from the edge of the torque arm with a half round file to correct this. Hope this helps.

Try Sandiford's and In-Motion for parts, we have had excellent service from both companies. We are using 210 cc of 5 weight fork oil with standard springs as a starting point. If it seems a bit softly sprung try adding some more oil in 15 cc steps before experimenting with new springs. We were surprised at the good results we have had this way. Pump the forks up and down a few times before finally tightening the pinch bolt at the bottom of the right hand slider to help align the forks. Also make sure the mudguard brace is not too wide or too narrow between the mounting lugs causing the forks to bind. Try 300cc of Morris Oils Classic SAE 20 oil in the clutch case rather than modern oil. This oil makes the clutch less prone to slipping, be prepared to change the first fill fairly soon to make sure all the previous oil is removed. Using straight SAE 20 oil is a tip which Kevin Breedon deserves the credit for.

If your Bultaco is fitted with a Mk 2 Concentric there is a cold start lever which opens another fuel passage when the lever is lifted. My Montesa 349 with Mk 2 concentric was also bad to start. The problem was a blocked cold start jet, this jet is fitted in the float bowl at the bottom of a deep hole. To reach the cold start jet the float bowl has to be removed. The cold start jet is the same design as the pilot jet but may be a different number. Unscrew the cold start jet with a good fitting screwdriver and clean with carburettor cleaner. Check the hole the jet fits in is clean too. Refit the jet and see if this has cured it. Hope this helps.

Try Sandiford's at Burnley for your clutch case gasket, the part number is 6660-113. They have a very good postal service, I recently had one of these gaskets from them. It was not expensive.

Dixie, in one of your posts you mentioned as the forks tucked under the feeling was one of the brake having snatched on for a moment. I had the same sensation with a TLR250 I owned. Along with this on long descents over rough ground using gentle braking the front brake lever would pulse in and out, almost as though the front drum was oval. In my case the routing of the front brake cable was the cause. When the bike was new I took off the headlight and one of the cable guides from the front fork yokes. This allowed the cable to bow outwards in a loop when the forks compressed at the same time pulling the brake on a little harder. On sharp descents on almost full braking with the forks becoming fully compressed the result was a trip over the bars. I replaced the missing cable guide, the cable then moved up and down parallel to the forks and the fault vanished. This may not apply to your Fantic but it may be worth checking just in case. On the twinshocks I have owned since I have added cable guides to keep the cable parallel to the fork travel without grabbing the cable just in case.

You are right when you say the points are grounded out through a coil in the flywheel stator. To get a changed reading on your multi-meter when the points open remove both wires (coil and condenser) from the terminal on the points. Fit a single cable of your own to the points terminal and thread this through one of the holes in the stator base plate and out from under the rim of the flywheel. Connect one cable of your multi-meter to this lead and the other lead to a good earth on the engine. With points closed there will be a circuit, with the points open there will be no circuit as indicated by your buzzer. An analogue meter with a moving needle gives a very good indication of the moment the points open, with the setting on ohms there will be a full swing of the needle when the points open. I remove the flywheel first on my 349 to fit the replacement wire and to slacken the three stator clamping screws. Replace the flywheel and set the points gap. Check and set the timing. Remove the flywheel again, tighten the stator screws, remove your extra cable and refit the original cables. Replace the flywheel and tighten the nut to the required torque. Check the points gap again. it should not need adjusting. To remove and tighten the flywheel nut I use a Sammy Miller steel band type flywheel holding tool. This holds the flywheel firmly without causing any damage. I have stators which have been ruined by trying to lock the flywheel with a screwdriver or similar through the points adjusting window, the proper holding tool is worth every penny. Hope the above helps.

We have a 1982 Montesa Honda MH349 and this runs cleanly throughout the rev range. The carb is the standard Amal 2627 with jets as follows:- Main jet 145. Needle jet 107. 2B1 needle with circlip in second groove from top. No.4 slide. 20 pilot jet. These are the factory settings for this model. In getting the bike to run as smoothly as it does we have had to change the cranskhaft oil seals, if they are hard or worn the engine will draw air past the seals upsetting the carburetion. Before adjusting the carburettor it pays to make sure the ignition is correctly set, the air cleaner element is in good order and clean (old elements can crumble into bits) and the rubber connector between the carb and engine is flexible and free of cracks. The throttle slide can wear faster than the carburettor body, a worn slide lets more air past at low revs than it should. New slides (and other parts) are readily available from Amal via their website. In setting the pilot air screw make sure the engine is truly warm. Stop the engine. Start by adjusting the throttle stop screw by backing off the screw until the slide reaches the bottom of its travel. Then lift the slide by 1.1/2 to 2 turns of the throttle stop screw. Now gently screw the pilot screw in till it stops then wind it back out 1.1/2 turns to begin with. Restart the engine. We finally set the pilot air screw by listening to the engine revs, turn the pilot air screw slowly in both directions until maximum revs are attained. Turning the screw out weakens the mixture and inwards richens the mixture. Too weak or too rich a mixture will cause the revs to drop or the engine to stop. When the point of maximum revs has been found the throttle stop screw will probably need adjusting to your preferred tickover speed. Once set a half turn of the pilot air screw in either direction should cause the revs to fall. We have set two 349's to both run smoothly but the pilot air screw is a different number of turns out on each bike so an exact setting for the screw cannot be quoted. Hope this helps.

I have mounted an external condenser under the petrol tank next to the ignition coil on my Montesa 349. The original condenser was removed from the magneto stator plate. The condenser used was a Lucas DCB203C. This comes complete with wire attached and a separate "P" shaped clip. This condenser was used on a wide range of cars just before electronic ignition became commonplace. Opening up the mounting hole in the "P" clip allowed it to be fitted onto one of the M6 bolts holding the coil. The wire is long enough to reach the coil and has a male bullet connector crimped on the end. I cut the bullet off and replaced it with a female spade connector with a male "piggypack". The original wire is unclipped from the coil, the new condenser wire is clipped to the male terminal on the coil and the original wire refitted to the male piggyback. No other alteration to the wiring under the tank is required. If the Lucas condenser cannot be obtained locally in the UK try "Auto Electric Supplies" who have a website shop.

Providing observers for a trial seems to be a perennial problem. I have now probably observed at more trials than I have ridden in. If riders expect people to volunteer (or be press ganged) to observe a section some common courtesy would help in recruiting more willing observers and aid other riders. I offer the following for comment. If you doubt an observer's judgement see the clerk of the course at the end of the trial. In reality how many times does the disputed mark actually affect your overall position in the trial. If results are published on a "section by section" basis they often reveal the section you had doubts about probably did not matter that much in the end. Do not bother asking the observer "was that clean" or whatever. Keep score in your head and see if the results match your mental total. Observers don't see every dab and you might be prompting the observer in the opposite direction to what you think! How about always helping less able riders clear the section after they have "fived". This helps keep the trial moving, I have often downed my observers board and helped a stuck rider only to find a massive queue on my return with more riders walking the section. Next time your chain hops off the rear sprocket and jams the front sprocket solid I am sure you would like some help. If a marker peg gets knocked down, how about those riders walking the section or waiting for their mates sticking it back in. Watch your language! I am not a genteel old dear but someone who works in an environment where robust talk is all too common. I do not think it is acceptable to bellow expletives loudly in public. If you think this does not matter, think again. Often whilst waiting for riders I will talk to people who have nothing to with trials but have just come for a look. Do you want our sport being remembered for the wrong reasons? At one summer trial my section was right by someone's back garden wall. Some riders' cursing was far louder than the bikes. At the other side of the wall small children were playing. What if they were the children of the farmer whose land was being used? At a trial which is deliberately set out to be easy what about the dads of youth riders letting them ride round without a "minder"? Dad could observe a section and son or daughter would probably enjoy a trial without being told "the best line" for every section. If today's youngsters are to be riding when they are eligible for a bus pass trials should be their sport not the fulfilling of dad's dreams. You both might have more to talk about on the way home as well. Having ample and reliable observers helps the riders and the organisers. There may be more sections or a longer ride round. At the end of your last lap remember a "thank you" from the rider is always well received.