You may all think down upon me, but i was just wondering on anodising costs for certain parts of the bike, I'm certainly not a showoff and certainly dont have the skills to showoff with, I'm just interested in giving my bike a personal touch. It's a sherco if that gives you a better idea, were all a bit odd
Anyway, parts I had in mind were;
Rims - Electric blue (like the academy models) Front and rear.
Cdi Bracket/engine mount - Gold
Yokes - Electric Blue
Thermostat Casing - Black
Water Pump Cover - Electric blue (I heard these were magnesium, so it would be a spray paint job, this true?)
Hubs - Black
Put in colours just incase this makes a difference.
Any clue on pricing?
Who's best, yet cheapest for doing this kinda work? Or if you've got a lot of time on your hands, who's best for the individual pieces?
I can anodise, as we spent about 3 months practicing it in chemistry, but cant get hold of the acid, anybody have any idea where i can find concentrated, or 50/50 sulphuric acid in bulk?
Also, best place 'n' make of nipples and spokes for the wheels?
I believe it may either be a bent crank, or leaking head gasket... If your heads leaking coolant, it could seep in, sit ontop of the piston and cause too much compression to kick it over again, once it's drained through, it should kick again. Best to try taking the spark plug out and kicking it over, if it kicks over fine thats the problem, if not check the crank.
I'm not so keen on that guide, it isnt necessary to dismantle the fork, slide your forks out the tripple clamp, slide off the dustcaps. Get a sharp screwdriver, into the seal, pick it out, slide it off... new ones in, seat them with a firm tap with something blunt all the way round, dust caps back over.
Tops off the forks, drain and refill with 300cc of 5wt suspension fluid.
Maybe this could be a good idea, or it may just be my simple mind?
B Route - Stopping aloud for no more than 5 seconds at a time, got to move say 5 foot before being aloud to stop again.
A Route - Stopping aloud for no more than 5 seconds at a time, got to move say 10 foot before being aloud to stop again.
World level - Stopping aloud for no more than 5 or 10 seconds, three times in any one section.
Things like the SSDT and Scott use A route rules?
Instead of set distances, maybe got to move atleast two marker cards or something? Then it could vary depending on the section severity.
Maybe if its a Very large obstacle, or something very tricky, use a different coloured section marker, or have a spot on it to allow stopping in this zone.
Hi Jamie, I don't think Barry's online much but I'll let him know and will pm you his email address. It was a good trial on Sunday wasn't it? only spoiled at the end by one thing ....midges. Lee
Yeah, midges were a tad annoying but it was a good day, enjoyed by all I should imagine. I hope you didnt mind me nicking him from you for the day, was my first proper trial so was pleased to have a hand. Congratulations on your good ride and thanks for the address.
Looking to get hold of you, just wanting to say a big thanks for your help on Sunday and congratulations on making it round! Was certainly a good day despite our scores, was a good challenge and like you say, worth it for the veiw.
Thanks for the company too, would of been no fun on my tod!
Any chance of you pm'ing me your email address, or anyone else who has it for that matter.
I had the same problem on my sherco... check your wiring, have you got a spare connector? If so, try switching the feed to the fan from whatever it's plugged into, into the spare. It turns out mine had been wired from the headlight spare cable and left the correct fan connector dangling around!
OK sherco have managed to stop water getting in the air box by moving it to where the tank used to be , but how will they now stop water getting in the fuel tank ???
phil
Ummm... I cant quite tell if your joking?
The tank, unlike the airbox is a sealed unit with no need for big openings to let air/water/mud in.
I like the bike, may be tempted with one... wonder what colour those wheels will be? DID rims maybe? There must be something special for them to be blanked out. The airbox-carb-engine setup's gonna be odd aswell, as the flow will be vertical, not horizontal?
Best grips I've used, I dont normally use gloves so there great! But even after twelve months there still textured like new! And I ride atleast 32 hours a week! Sometimes with gloves, so yeah... wear rates good!
The end stops stay in if you pull back the loose bit at the end before inserting them, I use motomerlin end stops on my 06, and the domino ones on the new bike, both are still great! Seem to replace them at the same time as the front tire, last about the same amount of time!
Only other alternative I can think of is the ones by Progrip, they look good quality!
I'm gonna throw this out here... fed up of paypal sellers fee's? Send the money as a gift, click personal, personal gift and send the money, as it's not for a product there are no sellers fee's! Just handy to keep in mind!
Well, yes! The Tygon F-4040 is a premium fuel hose. You can look it up.
It is great stuff and lasts a long time while staying flexable, yet it will not tolerate direct contact with the exhaust muff on a Sherco, so proper routing is key.
If you cannot find it, I can post you a sample for a fiver! no profit here. Popular in the lawnmower shops as well, so ck them!
How big is said sample?
It looks good stuff, I'm always having to try cut my other stuff off my petcock, it goes solid after a few hours of contact with the fuel! Cant find any for purchase online though...
Could be fuel? Drain the tank, empty the fuel from the float bowl on the carb, replace fuel hose and filter if using one and try again. With it being after a few hours your bike could be running low in the tank so not much weight from the fuel above forcing through.
Ahem
I reccomend putting half a litre of fuel in, giving it a bloody good shake and pouring it out to clean stuff out...
As for the carb, empty the fuel, blow all your jets out, new fuel line and in-line filter if using one!
Today I had the killswitch off but no difference. Had the flywheel off and it and the stator was all mucky so I cleaned it all up but there was no difference. Tried someone elses CDI unit but no difference. So i got myself down to b+q and bought myself a heat gun. Got home and made myself a jet engine with the muff to clean all the gunk out. I'm leaving it to settle over night and it will be rebuilt tommorow. So i will post up woth how i get on.
Just to try the stator next if the muff trick doesnt work, shouldn't be that bad on an 08 unless your a real gentle rider with a rich mix!
And no, as a personal gift there aint even a transaction fee!
Anodising Prices
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Hey all,
You may all think down upon me, but i was just wondering on anodising costs for certain parts of the bike, I'm certainly not a showoff and certainly dont have the skills to showoff with, I'm just interested in giving my bike a personal touch. It's a sherco if that gives you a better idea, were all a bit odd
Anyway, parts I had in mind were;
Rims - Electric blue (like the academy models) Front and rear.
Cdi Bracket/engine mount - Gold
Yokes - Electric Blue
Thermostat Casing - Black
Water Pump Cover - Electric blue (I heard these were magnesium, so it would be a spray paint job, this true?)
Hubs - Black
Put in colours just incase this makes a difference.
Any clue on pricing?
Who's best, yet cheapest for doing this kinda work? Or if you've got a lot of time on your hands, who's best for the individual pieces?
I can anodise, as we spent about 3 months practicing it in chemistry, but cant get hold of the acid, anybody have any idea where i can find concentrated, or 50/50 sulphuric acid in bulk?
Also, best place 'n' make of nipples and spokes for the wheels?
Cheers in advance,
Jamie