Check your rear wheel bearings for play. I was in an event and had a horrible clicking noise, so much I thought something was wrong in the clutch / transmission. I went so far as to pull the clutch cover off in the paddock to investigate.
I found nothing, DNF the event. later discovered the rear wheel bearings were sloppy as all hell and was causing the rear sprocket to move out of alignment enough that the chain would "click" off the edge of the sprocket.
I couldn't really hear the whine, so I would say it's probably normal. I can't remember if you state you changed gearbox oil or not, watch for tremendous amount of metal shavings or chunks on the drain magnet. Some small gook type build up is normal.
I think I figured out why it wouldnt reach. The reed intake is from a standard model. The Kehin carb model has a metal piece and then a longer rubber which has effectively moved the whole carb closer to the airbox so it fits now and the bottom of the carb isnt rubbing on the frame. Seems like this bike has been mashed together with a standard model at some point.
I had forgotten about the difference in reed valve intakes
Are you saying if you are in 4th gear and give the bike a lot of throttle (gas) the bike will shift on its own into 5th and if in 5th gear it will shift on its own into 4th?
There is a known "clunk" and a little hard shift between 4th and 5th and back down from 5th to 4th, that is just a characteristic of the GasGas Pro transmission.
I have found a parts book online shirts gasgas uk. its crap! it doesn't open the page schematics.thats why the question was does anyone know of any other good working uk parts schematics.
You have the TXT model before the Pro model came out.
Frame matches the frame in the first photo I posted, look closely at the footpeg area. Also The exhaust header where it enters the midbox is horizontal, the Pro in angled at that point.
The radiator on yours is "inside" the frame, the Pro the radiator sides are visible.
250cc vs 280cc, The Pro model has a number in the casting of the cylinder. Shifter side, 25 = 250cc; 28 = 280cc
I don't know if the TXT model also has that number in the cylinder casting.
Yes, Mecatecno definitely needs a sub-forum on here as I posted about a year ago, but nothing has happened yet. Xispa has it's own sub-forum and I've never even seen one!
I think @Andy may have moved on to other endeavors. It has been a long time since I have seen any activity by him.
I am not sure how often this site is monitored by him anymore.
and it doesn't take much to shorten the bars to where it is comfortable. I think I cut 1/2 inch off each side. Start small, you can always cut more off, a bit harder to add it back on.
Risers won't mess with your ability to learn, being uncomfortable and in pain will mess with your ability to learn.
Down side of using risers with low bend bars, it brings the center of the bar up so there is more possibility of hitting your body with the bars on big ups.
Bars with a taller bend will give height but keep center of bars out of the way of the body.
OK quick arguing about whether tall or short is an advantage, it doesn't help answer this person's question.
@dirtrider86 When you state "older trials" are you referring 10-15 year old machine or even older? - but either way my notes below still apply to both.
I used to suffer from low back pain and sore wrists due to riding position. 2 small changes made all the difference so that I could support myself with my legs and not lean on the bars.
1. Bar risers - I didn't go crazy, I think I got the 10mm risers at V-Mar racing. https://vmar.com/barmounts.html#close - Same results could be gained using taller bars. and as @Tr1AL stated be sure to buy Trials bend, this is what they are designed for.
2. Bar width - I cut my bars shorter so that my forearm, wrist and hand were all in line. I will explain, this one takes some visualization to understand.
stand on your bike, place your hands as far apart on the bars as possible - notice that your wrists bend outward and your back is bending forward
Now bring your hands inward on the bars until your forearms and wrist are in a relative straight line. Your back will also move to a straighter position - you should be able to find a natural feeling position that is still somewhat bent forward.
Setting the bar width for my "wingspan" solved the sore back from having a too forward riding position and solved the sore wrists from having them bent at an uncomfortable angle.
The first workshop manual GasGas produced for the TXT trials bikes (2003 until now) was in 2018. Prior to that all you could get was a User Manual and an exploded parts diagram.
The 2018 Workshop manual is 95% correct for your bike anyway, so you will be able to figure it out.
Zippy, did you ever find out what year those boots were? I just missed a set of these -- kicking myself!
Nope, but a short while later I switched to Alpinestars and never looked back. So much happier with the Alpinestars, stiffer sole so my arches don't hurt.
My experience has been that you can get the newer GasGas trials parts in the US via KTM dealers (often at a discount). But you may have to come up with the part number on your own.
My 2015 GasGas 300 came with a flywheel weight from the previous owner. I noticed immediately that it did not have that "pop" at small throttle inputs, it had to be revved more to get that response.
Made the bike feel sluggish to me.
I took the flywheel weight off within a couple days.
A flywheel weight may provide the result you're looking for.
I probably have the same lift. Takes a little effort to get in up on the thing, but it works really well.
17 hours ago, Butch said:
Yep it's a Vovor. Like you said, still have to get it up on there but then your all set up without kneeling on the floor. That's not pleasant for old guys like me lol
Tip when lifting a trials bike onto a stand, as tempting and convenient as it is do not grab the muffler to lift the bike.
Reach down just a little farther and grab the tire/rim and lift. Will save the muffler from getting wonky and provides better lift to set it on a stand.
Rear brake arm extender- TLR200
in Honda
Posted
Mike Komer at the Tryals shop in Locke, NY may be helpful with ideas on the rear brake
https://tryalsshop.com/