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woody

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Everything posted by woody
 
 
  1. woody

    Ossa Mar

    Not sure what you mean by using shims or washers, I just reduce the tension on the springs by backing off the screws until I get a pull that feels comfortable without the clutch slipping. I've also lengthened the arm on the ignition cover
  2. woody

    Ossa Mar

    I've never tried lighter clutch springs myself so I don't know for definite who sold them, they aren't an actual Ossa part, they're aftermarket. I think it may have been a company here in the UK called Rex Caunt Racing. They never listed them as a part in their product list so you'd have to contact them to see if they still stock them. With Barnett plates I just back the tension off on my springs to get where I want by trial and error
  3. Possibly available from Spanish dealers but I'd be surpised if you can find one on sale. Easy enough to make or get made as it's just a tube with ID to give cleance to spindle diameter which is 12mm, OD and wall thickness to match the bearing inner race and the length is the distance between the two bearings. The two rings 105604 fit over the tube and are to help keep it near central in the hub and lined up with the bearings so that the spindle easily pushes through. Or the OD can be made larger to help keep it centralised and machined down either end to match the bearing inner race. All it does is stop the bearing inner races being pushed inwards when the spindle is tightened
  4. The hubs on yours weren't chrome lined assuming the wheels are the originals, they are just normal liners, chrome came around 1972. If the chrome is in good condition the brakes work fine with modern shoe linings Easy to determine contact patch, just ride around with the brakes hard on and see the rub marks on the shoes. It's a lot less expensinve to get some oversize shoes and turn them down and try them before having hubs relined for no reason
  5. Yes, based on the GasGas engine (which I think shared the rod kit with Bultaco) No relation to a Yamaha at all
  6. When you say the shoes contact the drums fine, how much contact is there. Usually with EBC or Newfren etc you get minimal contact around the pivot but not much else. Oversize linings machined down to fit snugly in the hub give almost full contact and there are different materials to choose from. As above Villiers Services can reline old shoes to whatever thickness you want, as do Saftek
  7. Have you got a replacement gear, 6 speed 199B gears are hard to find, In Motion might be able to help
  8. Unless your hub is seriously worn and out of true, a better and cheaper option would be to have your old shoes fitted with modern linings which are oversize and then have them machined down to fit the hub. That way you get almost full contact of shoe to hub. Off the shelf shoes rarely give much of a contact patch as the lining is thin and only a small section of the shoe contacts the hub when the cam opens them. Modern linings also have more friction for better braking. Companies such as Villiers Services and Saftek offer shoe relining
  9. The handy thing with the Falcons having no oil / gas separator is that you can drain and fill oil through the hole in the body with the valve removed. You can use air, you don't really need nitrogen on a trials shock, around 50-70psi with a mountain bike suspension pump. They'yy work better pressurised as it helps suspension preload and return
  10. Modern 125 will easily have enough power for what you are going to be doing as a beginner regardless of your weight. I recently rode two modern 250cc bikes which were around 3 to 4 years old, GasGas and Sherco and they were both way over powered for what an average club rider needs, very sharp power delivery off idle - and the GasGas already had a flywheel weight fitted. The clutches were like jack hammers, designed to take up full revs launches, which made slipping them on tight turns a jerky affair, no gradual take up, they just bit. I've been riding for decades, it's the first time I've ridden a modern bike in a few years and those two were not suitable for most lower level club riders Regards rider weight, a 1980s 156cc Fantic could pull two riders and a sidecar, a modern 125 has a bit more power than the old Fantic
  11. Gearing is personal really, or needs to suit what your riding entails, trials or just trail, playing about. For trials I find the standard 11:46 of the 520 chain a bit high as sections are a bit tighter than they were when these bikes were designed, I've used 11:48 on my M49 and others which means less clutch use in tighter sections. As mentioned above, 14/52 was the standard M49 gearing on 428 chain and other early bikes, but that is a bit higher than the 11/46 combination on a 520. Whether you use 428 or 520 won't make any difference to the bike but you might find there are more options with 520 rear sprocket sizes although there is only an 11 tooth option for the front
  12. The easiest way to get the engine out of the frame is to first remove the cylinder and head with engine in the bike, then remove the engine. It is possible to remove the engine with cylinder and head fitted but it can be a real struggle, much easier without - same when refitting. Also easier with the ignition and clutch side casings removed. To remove the cylinder and head you'll need to remove the middle silencer as the head will catch the front of it. For the engine, remove the two rear and one of the front engine mount bolts, hold the engine by the cylinder studs and then remove the last front bolt, the engine will drop forwards and out or lift out For engine removal the only proper tool you need is a C spanner that correctly fits the threaded ring that holds the exhaust in the cylinder. If you try and undo this using a hammer and drift to unscrew it you risk damaging the threads which are fine - also be careful when refitting as it's easy to croass thread it when it first goes in, it should be easy to make the first few turns by hand, if not, it's probably crossed. To remover the rear engine bolt a knuckle joint on a socket extension is useful as it's awkward to get at. The only other tool needed is if you are stripping the engine and that's to remove the rapered sleeve for the clutch cush drive and a puller for the ignition flywheel but if Steve is doing the engine you won't need to bother with that
  13. It's just what some people do, the oversize 82mm piston gives about 340cc so someone has made a 350 decal for it. Some do it for the TY250 Yamaha when an oversize 70mm piston is fitted, they have a 270 decal made for it
  14. Someone has just made a 350 sticker up. They were 322cc badged as an RL325, 82mm is an oversize piston
  15. It was the clutch end I was referring to but I got the sizes wrong as I was trying to remember from some bearing sizes I'd scribbled down ages ago, I think I've given the bearing widths. The shaft for the clutch hub on the M80 is 15mm, the larger shaft is 17mm. I thought that was introduced later than '72 but It's years since I rebuilt my model 92 which is an early number from '72 so I forget what's in it so possibly yes, 17mm came immediately with the 91/92 models The Alpina came in 1971 so possibly early numbers had the smaller shaft, I don't know but something to check before buying a Sherpa gearbox
  16. I'm not overly familiar with Alpinas having never owned one, but I think the earlier M97-99 range of frames are more akin to the series 1 M91/92 Sherpa frames, hence the rear facing tensioner and recessed swingarm spindle For a gearbox swap you need to check which mainshaft your M85 engine has, M80 and earlier Sherpas had 13mm diameter where it extends into the clutch with the clutch hub held on a woodruff key. Around 1973/74 the mainshaft was enlarged to 14mm with a splined end and had a larger bearing to take it. The clutch hub was now larger and also splined for the larger mainshaft. This also required a larger ID for the top hat bush behind the hub. As the M85 Alpina ran from 71-74 later number engines could have the larger mainshaft box, I don't know for a fact but just a possibility bearing in mind they went through about three different frame designs, you just need to know which you have as early and later type shafts aren't compatible
  17. 28th December is their equivalent of April 1st. The concept isn't a bad idea given some of the absolute rip off prices I've seen for tyres this year
  18. As per the 198 from the original post, they are the same engine. New they come with 112 main and 48 pilot and K44 needle. They run well straight off on these settings so it's just a case of a small tweak on individual bikes to get to how you want it, maybe 50 pilot and drop the needle a notch. Some use JJH needle which is slightly weaker low down, I can't really notice any difference, dropping the K44 seems to achieve the same
  19. woody

    MH 200

    The MH200 came with a plastic tank and seat unit, like the MH349, there was no cover with a tank underneath so it sounds as though someone has made a modification. It was the ealrier UK sold bikes with fibreglass tanks that had a seperate tank and cover The original MH tanks aren't affected by modern fuel. If the tank on yours is one of the pit bike type tanks, same as used under some TLR Honda tank covers they are fine with modern fuel
  20. If it helps, for my club I did a rough guide for members on how to renew their membership and licence. This was after playing with screens doing my own and using another rider's account to set his up so I could play a bit more. I can't attach the document but you can find it on my club website home page here https://www.staffordautotrialsclub.com/
  21. Yes, the roll out is poor and the timing not good and it's not easy to use straight off but for various reasons the old site had come to its end and had to be replaced The medical is a questionaire like it was on the old site, you don't need to download the forms for trials unlesss you have specific medical issues. Click on the CURRENT button which brings up the questionnaire and complete the process . It will go to PENDING APPROVAL when done as the ACU have to approve it Club affiliation, your club details should be in there migrated from the old site, to renew 2023 membership click on the CURRENT button and complete the screens. It will go to PENDING APPROVAL until your club official approves it which they'll do from an email prompt, after you've paid membership fee. Then it will return to CURRENT with expiry of 2023. If you use the ADD CLUB / TEAM AFFILIATION it will default to TEAM as you already have club. You don't use this to renew an existing membership Same process for ACU licence and then Membership Details, click on CURRENT button and complete screens. It's the Membership Details category that has the link to renew/checkout and pay licence fee
  22. A club doesn't need to create the new web page/portal in order to allow members to join or renew. This is only needed if the club want members to join with automatic approval as payment is made directly to the club account via Stripe - hence the need to set up a stripe account with the portal. Members still have to go into their profile to complete the club affiliation process Members can renew or join using the Club Affiliation category on their profile but they cannot pay the membership fee directly to the club this way, they have to pay by other means, cash, cheques, bank transfer etc. As Sport80 has no way of knowing whether a fee has been paid, a notification is sent to a club official by email of the request to join, the member will see their club membership status as Pending Approval. The email has Approve or Decline buttons, if the official is satisfied that the club membership fee has been paid they can approve the renewal, the member sees the status change to Current There are four categories a member needs to complete on their profile to renew (for trials at least) Club Affiliation, Medical Questionnaire, ACU Competition Licence, Membership Details (it's this one where you check out and renew which takes you to the payment screen to pay the licence fee) There is no validation that makes you complete all four or complete them in any order, so there are riders who have just completed the ACU Competition Licence category and received their 2023 licence by email, thinking they have a 2023 licence for free. This will become invalid on Jan 1st if the other categories are not complete and payment sent
  23. Can't hel[ with why your Stripe account is pending but that will be why you can't take payments at this time. If you already had a club website, just put a link on it to your club sport80 page that you have just created. If you don't have a club website you can use the web address of the new one and put it in your club details on the Sport80 website as you web address. Members can then just copy and paste that address into their browser and it will open the page with your club membership - but once your stripe issues are resolved be prepared to receive payments with no sender details if you use it.
  24. I think that the Stripe account is through a contract with Sport80 so maybe why it's easier to set up an account, but you need to set it up as an indivifual/sole trader, otherwise more questions may be asked and it becomes more difficult. I got onto Stripe support to see why my payments had no sender details but they said that's how they received them from Sport80. The Stripe transaction fee is also 2.5% plus 20p whereas normally it would be 1.4% plus 20p for UK cards. Stripe told me it's because of the custom plan that Sport80 have with Stripe for this platform - no idea if this is true but that's what he told me. I raised an issue direct with Sport80 support to ask why there are no sender details on the payments - so far unanswered. They also take 4.6% I believe per transaction. I received £4.50 from a £5 membership fee
  25. To access, view or enter 2022 events, they are still processed on the old site and you haver to use this link to get to them. https://www.ride-acu.uk/? No 2022 events will appear on the new site Club members have been able to renew their club membership directly on the sport80 site but the process doesn't seem defined and is erratic. As the site has no record of membership fee payment an email is sent to the club secretary asking them to approve the renewal which they can do if they have received the fee direct from the rider (although that's up to the club whether they approve with or without payment) To renew club membership automatically a club needs to st up the web page portal which has a join club link and a stripe account, when the rider selects join club a payment form appears, rider inputs card details and payment is made to the club stripe account, the rider is transferred to the sport80 site and completes the renewal procedure . This doesn't involve emailing the secretary for approval as there is a record of the stripe payment Problem with this is the stripe payment is received into the club's stripe account, minus fees, with no details of who sent it so there is no way of knowing who has sent the payment. It is also held by stripe for 7 days before they pay into the club bank account. I set all this up on day 1 for my club and received 5 payments from riders but don't know who and was struggling to reconcile them against the membership statuses on my membership list - so I pulled it and am now trying to find out specifically what a rider has to do to renew directly on the sport80 site so that I can issue instructions and ask them to make payment straight to the club by normal bank transfer or paypal Check your email from the ACU as there is a video presentation tonight at 7pm as well as Thursday
 
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