woody

Has the woodruff key been pushed backwards and is sitting partly up in its slot which is preventing the huib and basket fully locating. That basket is too far out, the outside edge should be somewhere near in line with the edge of the weight The only thing behind the hub should be the top hat spacer which locates in the seal You really need to pull the clutch off, remove the key and push the hub on to ensure it sits right up against the spacer Weights are generally interchangeable as long as the number of teeth and pitch is right as they differ on some models. I have a weight from a much later M158 engine on my M10 I'm not aware of any difference in clutches on M10 but someone else may know differently

They fitted a through shaft for the gear change in 1975 on the new M158/159 models, giving the option of a left hand gear change. To have the brake pedal on the right needed a cable to operate the brake but there was no provision on the frames to mount one so owners would have had to sort their own. In 1977 with the M198/199 model Bultaco released them from the factory with left hand gear change and right hand brake with cable - owners could still change to right hand gear change and left hand brake if they wanted to

For a full engine rebuild it will top £600 in parts plus cost of crank build and rebore. If it needs a primary chain you'll have to source one from outside UK as there are non here. The cycle parts will also add cost but it depends on how far you want to go in terms of finish - eg: you don't have to get frame repainted but to do it could be between £100 and £200 depending on finish, powder coat, sprayed, enamelled etc. Fork chrome, chrome in hubs, state of wheels, tyres, cables, bars. levers etc etc. You can easily be up to £1500 in rebuild costs depending on what needs doing and how far you go. Plus the cost of the actual bike unless you're being given it. If you're doping it to keep and use the cost doesn't really come into it but should you need to sell it on it's unlikely you'd get all of your outlay back. They have a ceiling in terms of what they're really worth. To buy a bike, there are loads of Sherpas for sale but the asking prices for many are way over value which is why most have been on sale for months and years, some people asking between £2-3000 for something really worth about £1000, sometimes less. Some of them look ok but when you actually examine closely, things like the tyres, shocks etc they aren't any use for trials riding, similarly the engine might run but need attention, hub linings, cables might all need attention, exhaust repacking, so more outlay on what's an overpriced ornament in the first place. There are decent bikes out there, you just have to be carefull in what you buy For registering, was it ever registered originally? If so there is a facebook page 'vin to reg' who will use the frame number to find the original reg number if there is one, if they do you then just apply for the V5 using a V62. If there is no trace you have to go through the new registration process and apply for an age related plate as a historic vehicle. Lots of info on this in the Road Legal forum

They were replacements for the slimline one piece fibreglass tank/seat unit. Fitted from 1973 - 75 in UK only due to fibreglass tanks being banned for road use

The M10 has the double weight as standard but these are interchangeable with the single weight as the fit on the crank is the same - as long as it has the same pitch and teeth number. Your problem looks to be the basket which is sitting too far out. There is a top hat spacer that sits in the oil seal on the mainshaft and the basket and hub sit up against the spacer and when fully home the sprockets line up. There looks to be something sititng behind the basket in your picture? Is the correct spacer fitted. It's easy to see if the front sprocket is aligned as the tensioner wheel should be in direct alignment with it

Nowhere if it's a complete kickstart you want. In Motion sell the knuckle but only for the coarse spline shaft. If you want a complete lever it's a case of looking for a used one - Telford show maybe or put a wanted post on the Vintage Ossa facebook group The modern day Dick Turpin in Spain, Frankie Mountain, has a new old stock Phantom klickstart if you'd like to part with £300 plus post.....

You can't apply for a V5 if it never had one. If you send a V62 with no reg number, if you're luck they'll check against the chassis number to see if it has an associated reg number and if it does they're supposed to write the registered keeper to notify them they've received a request for the V5, they shouldn't just issue it, but probably do. If it doesn't have a reg numbere they just send you your form and cheque back Try the ''vin to reg'' service on facebook, they'll search the chassis number to see if it has a registration It's a Honda Montesa, not Matisse

Contact the club as it could be the way they've set the entry up on sport80

First you have to complete a NOVA declaration with HMRC When done, complete a V55/5 and send to DVLA - to do this you will also need a dating certificate from a club or organisation approved by DVLA to issue such a certificate. This is to prove the age of the bike in order to get an age related registration number For bikes over 40 years old you won't need an MOT, nor do you need insurance. If it's less than 40 years old (as at April 2023) you will need and MOT and tax. Over 40 years old the tax class on the V55 is Historic Vehicle For a Montesa Honda finding someone to issue a dating certificate might be difficult (Honda UK won't do one as it's not really a Honda) You can look in this forum as there are many topics on this subject https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/forum/76-road-legal-mot-insurance-etc/ Or you could get one of the agents who specialise in this to do the whole process for you. Or speak to VMCC in Burton Upon Trent and see what advice they can give as they can issue dating certificates. Your bike should have a plate fixed to the headstock with the chassis number and maybe the date of manufacture as well

Ignition contact breaker points. The stator on your bike has no contact breaker, it's elctronic ignition. What are you replacing your stator with?

MAR had electronic, the green TR77 had points, then they went back to electronic on thr Gripper. They're interchangeable so it's possible to fit the points ignition system to a MAR

Probably no longer available as a new item anywhere (which would be new old stock as they're no longer reproduced) You'll probably have to look out for a used one Being a 1972 bike it will have the shaft with the fine splines if still the original shaft (ie: more splines, later bikes from '74 onwards had less splines, coarse splines) Shafts are the same apart from the number of splines, therefore interchangeable (same with the gear shaft, they come as fine or coarse spline) With the engine apart it might pay to swap these shafts for the coarse type as I think, not certain, that coarse spline gear levers and knuckles are more easily obtained than those for the fine spline shafts The kickstart shape on most Ossas is very similar apart from later Phantoms which are shorter but rare as hen's teeth anyway You mention buying the new knuckle to graft on a lever from another bike with left hand kickstart, some owners have done this as they don't like the long length of the Ossa lever

The tensioner helps smooth power delivery to the back wheel at slow speed in trials competition. For green laning you wouldn't notice not having a tensioner

Being an old style cast sleeved cylinder 50:1 is the leanest mix to use, modern bikes have plated bores so are fine on leaner mixes like 80:1 or 100:1 As someone else mentioned the spec sheet mix ratio is for mineral oils used at the time the bikes were manufactured. Just use any modern semi synthetic 2-stroke oil at 50:1. Castrol Power 1 is a decent brand that doesn't gum up rings or silencer packing

Your existing clutch cover also houses the adjuster for pushrod play against the actuator. If you put the later 1972 cover on there is no adjuster so you have no way of adjusting the clearance. The later clutches have the adjuster on the clutch pressure plate which is accessed via the large plastic screw in the later clutch cover so you'd also need to fit that along with a later type pressure plate and pushrod assembly Why do you want to do it, for appearance? Or better clutch action? If the latter you can get a light clutch operation with the original set up using Barnett friction plates which allows less tension on the clutch springs, therefore lighter pull. Also make sure the actuator worm drive is cleaned and greased and rotates freely, they easily get gunged up located where they are

Depends where you are. Keith Lynas or Alex Snoop in the US might still do them. No-one in the UK as far as I know In the UK only the MK1 MAR had the foil chassis sticker. From the MK2 MAR onwards and TR77 and Grippers, they all had the number stamped on the headstock, no sticker

There's a facebook group called hard to find twinshock trials and aircooled mono If you join that group they have a M80 parts manual in the files section you can download

There is an article on the BSA Otter site that shows how to widen the rear Cub/Bantam hub. The same front hub is fine for trials, skim to ensure it's round, get modern oversize linings fitted to the shoes and skim to fit hub I've no idea what AJS Archer hubs are but as for rules there is only one trial that will pull you up for hubs and that's the Pre65 Scottish. Most classic clubs won't bother which hubs you have, others have a specials class if they don't like your hubs

The forks could have been forced apart yes, but the travel would have been very stiff .The spacer could be wrong, in absence of knowing the correct length you could test the spacer length by fitting the bearings back in the wheel then push the spindle through the wheel with the speedo drive and spacer, if the spacer is too wide the drive shouldn't engage with the hub

I haven't got one to measure as I don't use a speedo drive, there is only one length so if it is the original item it will be correct length. If you have mudguard brackets fitted, try removing them as the brackets can pull the legs together enough for the forks to bind if they are tight, bending them outwards stops this

Not sure what you mean by using shims or washers, I just reduce the tension on the springs by backing off the screws until I get a pull that feels comfortable without the clutch slipping. I've also lengthened the arm on the ignition cover

I've never tried lighter clutch springs myself so I don't know for definite who sold them, they aren't an actual Ossa part, they're aftermarket. I think it may have been a company here in the UK called Rex Caunt Racing. They never listed them as a part in their product list so you'd have to contact them to see if they still stock them. With Barnett plates I just back the tension off on my springs to get where I want by trial and error

Possibly available from Spanish dealers but I'd be surpised if you can find one on sale. Easy enough to make or get made as it's just a tube with ID to give cleance to spindle diameter which is 12mm, OD and wall thickness to match the bearing inner race and the length is the distance between the two bearings. The two rings 105604 fit over the tube and are to help keep it near central in the hub and lined up with the bearings so that the spindle easily pushes through. Or the OD can be made larger to help keep it centralised and machined down either end to match the bearing inner race. All it does is stop the bearing inner races being pushed inwards when the spindle is tightened

The hubs on yours weren't chrome lined assuming the wheels are the originals, they are just normal liners, chrome came around 1972. If the chrome is in good condition the brakes work fine with modern shoe linings Easy to determine contact patch, just ride around with the brakes hard on and see the rub marks on the shoes. It's a lot less expensinve to get some oversize shoes and turn them down and try them before having hubs relined for no reason

Yes, based on the GasGas engine (which I think shared the rod kit with Bultaco) No relation to a Yamaha at all