woody

34 is a MK1 Ossa MAR 1972/73 250cc. The frames weren't stamped with a number on the MK1 they had a sticker on the headstock. The frame has been repainted as they were siver/grey originally

Autotek is acrylic paint and may not be resistant to petrol - most modern paints don't seem to be. If you spill any whilst filling the tank you could end up with an unsightly blemish if it isn't. Paint something else that doesn't matter and when cured pour / rub some petrol on it, better to find out that way than ruin you tank paint job. Halfords paint for example is acrylic and although gives a really nice finish from a can, when it comes into contact with petrol it virtually dissolves

The 199 exhaust has a higher rise over the head than the 191 pipe so it will sit a lot closer to the underside of the tank. It also bolts directly to the cylinder so you'd need to remove the manifold from the 191 cylinder. You might also find the outlet doesn't match the inlet of the rear silencer in respect of tube diameters but if so that can be sorted by welding the correct size tube to either one. You're not really going to know the answer to your question completely without trying it For interchanging parts it's difficult to give a precise answer as there are differences. Not many engine parts are directly compatible, head and barrel can be changed together but not individually as 199 uses a head gasket, 191 doesn't. Gearbox internals are different, crank probably looks the same but the 191 has a single bearing on the clutch side, the 199 might be a double, can't remember. Forks and wheels are the same

They shouldn't leak. I've found using talc helps pinpoint where it first comes from, dry it all off, shower it in talc and then you can see where the wet patch first appears What can happen with the MAR is that the bashplate gets bent upwards in the middle from repeated contact with the scenery and this can expose the sump plug. If the plug then starts taking hits it can crack the casing around the plug but yours looks fine. It could possibly cause distortion which stops the cases mating fully, not sure Some of the gaskets these days are horribly thin and if there is any imperfection in the mating surfaces oil finds a way past and drips Yours has grey sealer as well as a gasket., possibly 3 bond as that is grey but that would usually fill any imperfection in the mating surface I'd have thought as it's good stuff The gear shaft has an O ring either end but from the ignition side it can't be replaced without splitting the engine as the shaft can't be removed without splitting. It might be possible with the end of the gear shaft cut off flush with the casing to expose the O ring if the shaft is pushed fully inwards with the clutch cover off I've found with these older engines that it's best to put a little oil in before fitting back into the bike and leaving for a day or two to see if there are any leaks. A short term fix is dry it all off once you've pinpointed the leak and apply some plastic padding leak fix along the gasket which should hold it. The only correct fix is a strip and inspection of the mating surfaces which might need facing off or to see if there is a hairline crack anywhere First though, see if you can tighten the crankcase screws any further - you never know...

If you leave it as it is it can't the bolt should still secure it as it is also held with the straps below the seat - but to repair it I'd fill with fibreglass resin and make solid again, then re-drill the holes

As mentioned the tank cover holds it on, bolted at the front and straps at the rear below the seat

I think wherever you buy the points from they are going to be the same pattern points you have already got. Ideally you need to try and find a set of original Femsa if they are still available but no idea where you would get some from. All of the parts stockists I know of, Spain included, sell the pattern points. The issue I had with them is the position of the terminal screw for the wiring which sits directly in front of the coil and makes it extremely difficult to connect the wires - enough so that I bought electronic for my bikes. Add to that I absolutely hate the fiddle of trying to work through a stupidly tiny hole in a flywheel...

It's a cover from an earlier 349, the MK3 white model '81, not an '84, the last MK4 349 from 82-84 had a plastic tank, also with flat sides, no molding behind where the round Montesa badge fits. But yes, someone has just cut it to slip over the bolt

You can only use road legal enduro tyres on the road - they are marked with the E mark in a circle. If they don't have that they aren't legal for road use. You won't need an MOT to register it on a 74 plate, nor insurance.

The DVLA inspection for registration, if they ask for one as they don't in every case, doesn't look for things like that, it's really to ensure you're actually registering what you say you are, chassis number check etc. and not to check RTA conformities. I don't know if the law from 1973 is still in force and I think it was to actually prevent new machines being sold with glass tanks, as there were still bikes being used on the road back then with glass tanks. There are plenty of bikes in use now with glass tanks

The thread on the spindle is a smaller diameter than the spindle shaft. If you remove the nut and washer and just eave the chain adjuster on, you will see that the spindle shaft extends past the adjuster. You need a washer that is the correct ID to slip over the shaft itself not just the threads and the washer also needs to be thick enough that none of the shaft is exposed. If it isn't set up like this the nut will reach the end of the thread and tightens against the spindle shaft itself, not the swingarm From your parts list it looks as though you have the thick washer on the wrong side

There isn't an actual paint code that Bultaco used. I've seen RAL 9006 recommended. Or the old Ford late 1960s colour of Silver Fox is a good match

ok, understand what you mean now, I wondered if you meant a different shape. I don't know for definite but I think the deeper, more pronounced lettering came with the A models on the Sherpas. Your first picture looks like a 198/199 case

What's different on your 198A case?

I've just had a part arrive from France which was under 135 euros and it all seems to have gone ok, no import duty charged and the price included tax (ie: VAT) so no demand for tax at delivery. Item was 47.70 plus 15.00 postage, total 62.70. 10.45 of that was the tax I'm now waiting for a part from Spain which was 135 euros exactly so not sure if this should fall into the items up to 135 band. which means no import duty and tax charged by retailer, as I don't know if ''up to'' is inclusive of 135, so it could be under or over. However the postage is 30 euros so the total cost is 165.00. What I also don't know is if the up to 135 scale applies to just the item cost or the total including postage. The item cost is 135, post is 30 and the total of 165 includes tax of 28.64 so I have paid the tax. I don't know if this is correct or not and I don't know if the retailer has just conducted the transaction adhering to the new rules or not... I just have to wait and see what happens when it arrives.... For the parcel you sent there should have been no import duty and I don't understand why the post office charged you either as it should be collected here upon receipt I think

We all pay VAT on purchases from within our own countries and buyers within the EU have always paid VAT when buying from other EU countries, it was collected by the retailer and paid to their government as it was their VAT. The price we've paid has always included tax. What's changed for the UK is that the VAT is now paid by the retailer to the UK to HMRC for purchases up to 135 euros. Anything over and the VAT is collected here, payable before you can collect your item (as it is with import duty on USA items for example) What's also happening now is that couriers are asking for the VAT when delivering and for the extra work they're adding their own fee, so the only additional cost is the handling fee, but the perception is we're paying more because we now pay VAT 'at the door' upon delivery. What we have to check is that we're not being double charged for VAT... Without doubt it's put additional burden on EU sellers and I can see that some won't send items to the UK until it's sorted out - if it is...

The VAT is not new, we've always paid VAT on items bought from the EU. The way it's collected has changed and as you've said is now creating more work for the retailer. Import fees shouldn't apply to a purchase under 135.00 euros UK couriers can also add their own handling fees

What I forgot to say is that some Spanish dealers still have this chain available. If you google Bultaco simplex primary chain you should find them, Classicdiaz, ,Motos Luis, Motos del Abuelo etc

You won't get turned away from any trial for having a fibreglass tank. There are new fibreglass tanks still being made and being used on plenty of bikes The law was introduced in 1973 following a road accident when a fibreglass tank spit and caused a fire. Hence all UK trials bikes had an alloy tank from then on to replace the original factory glass tank. It's never been clear as to whether the law was for all bikes or just those registered for the road, but as most trials were road based back then I think they all had their tanks swapped for alloy versions at import. It only applied to fibreglass tanks, doubtful there were any plastic tanks at that time. 1980s bikes were used on the road with their original plastic tanks

He doesn't have the thread for Bultaco spokes, I've spoken to him about it, he's done a few Bultaco wheels for me

I think it was a one off size made for Bultaco by Joresa. Where I live there are many chain suppliers/manufacturers. Due to the non-availability in the UK at the moment I went to a local manufacturer (who are big) and showed them the chain. His first reaction was no chance but he was very helpful and consulted his charts but the outcome was the same. Not a standard size, no-one will stock it. The problem is the inner width which is very big for a 3/8 chain. It doesn't exist on any chain size chart you can find. An old chain off one of my bikes is from Regina but I tried them and it is no longer produced Joresa still exist and have this size chain on their website so they must still make it

No I can't lace wheels, I send them to a wheel builder who makes his own spokes Tubeless has pros and cons. Pros - More choice, less chance of puncture as no tube to pinch, quicker to fix if you do puncture (I'm told as I've never punctured one at a trial) I have fixed a slow leak I found with superglue... Can run at 2 - 3 psi if needed (ie; here in UK in winter slop) without the fear of ripping a valve out or compression punctures. In the last Pre65 Scottish trial I had 5 compression punctures with a tubed IRC and that was with around 7psi in it and the time lost put me out of the trial Cons - you need a good compressor to fit one, a bead breaker to remove one (there are cruder alternatives...) They can be a pain to seal both at the spokes and on the bead. I gave up with the rubber sealing band that seals the spokes and use silicon sealer that is used on aluminium window frames, that stops leaking through the spokes but air can still seep through at the bead over days or weeks, Most of my bikes fitted with tubeless are sitting with flat tyres at the moment You can run tubeless on a tubed rim with a tube and security bolts. The inside lip of the bead is slightly longer on a tubleless and if this is trimmed back to match a tube type it will sit on the rim better. I've run tubeless on some Ossas and Bultaco Akront rims without trimming the bead and not had any problems, they've stayed on the rim ok. But with Jap rims I've never been able to get one to stay on the rim, tried on a KT and TY and as soon as the pressure went below about 10psi after fitting and deflating it dropped into the rim on one side. I never tried it with a trimmed bead though

I've had both new and used Morad rims fitted to various bikes, full width and conical hubs including Gripper, not sure why there should be a problem with a new one

Yes, on earlier models the first two and later models the first three engine and frame numbers identify the respective model https://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm