woody

It's been a long time since I saw chrome as good as that on a Bultaco hub Have the shoes relined with modern material and have them done oversize so that they can be machined down to fit the hub for full contact. Off the shelf shoes like Newfren / EBC have quite thin linings and only a small patch of the shoe actually contacts with the hub. Villiers Services or Safetek can reline your shoes For engine, I've just tried RHT engine paint which is resistant to petrol and gives a nice finish, I got it from ebay. PJ1 used to be a popular paint with a nice finish but petrol melts it faster than boiling water takes butter of a knife now, they've changed something to meet emissions probably. Some people use barbecue paint but I'm not sure how well that resists petrol

I can't see how it can be effective. The middle silencer has a perforated tube and packing around it. The packing can get soaked or clogged with oil and carbon meaning it no longer absorbs the sound, or the packing could have completely disintegrated and have been blown out leaving an empty chamber. Caustic soda won't fix either of these, the only fix is to cut the silencer open and replace the packing after ensuring the holes in the tube aren't blocked. Same for the lower part of the back box which is also perforated tube with packing. The only place it could have any effect is in the rear box of the rear silencer which is all baffles but as these rarely clog (I've never seen a clogged one) I doubt there would be any benefit If the bike is noisy it's the packing that needs renewing

That's the correct size for the trials seat although not the correct cover, the back end was supported by resting on the mudguard. Can't help with the Alpina version, never seen one

My two, one needs rings, the other mains, plus a complete rebuild on a mate's bike hat's been standing for about 30 years and must have had a hard life in the first 10

I'm rebuilding 3 199B engines at the moment. One looks as though it has never been apart before, the pushrod in that is 185mm. The rods in the other two are 187mm....

I'm not aware there was / is an alloy tank for the M49 but Holtworks make an alloy tank for a Pursang which looks the same apart from not having the small flares at the back which line with the seat unit and a seperate breather as they use the cap. It also has twin fuel taps but just blank one off

As Naichuff said, crank,clutch and output shaft. Of the the two larger, one goes on the crank clutch side, the other on the output shaft. The smaller goes on on the mainshaft behind the clutch basket. Each of them sits in a groove in the sleeves that are on each of those shafts There is a blog here that someone did for a model 80 rebuild and he has a model 80 parts list. This will show you where the O rings are on the engine parts diagram as they fit the same on the M92 http://ralphsbultaco.blogspot.com/2014/04/12-download-parts-list.html

Simon Anderson can help with engine parts, his name on here is BOSTIT or you can find him on facebook, John Halfpenny has used spares, he runs the Armstrong Trials website http://www.armstrong-trials.co.uk/

Yes it's possible someone has grafted in the bottom section from a later model, also moved the rear brake pedal to inside the frame. In Motion sell a new seat base unit and seat. This place in Spain do lots of parts for Bultaco including the mudguard stays, mudguards and fuel tank https://www.motosdelabuelo.com/pdf/bultaco.pdf Picture of M49 here, the colour picture is of the last version, the black and white pictures are the first version http://perogress-is-fine.blogspot.com/2014/05/bultaco-sherpa-t-model-49.html

Would going to the pub account for the seat unit being on backwards.... Your frame is confusing, it has the twin tubes under the engine from the last series 49 but has the top shock mount position of the first series 49. Also has the timing cover from the earlier model. Any evidence that the top shock mounts have been altered? Doesn't matter obviously, just curious. Frame number would be interesting but I understand if you don't want to put that out

Sid's Wheels in Stafford will rebuild them if that's what you're looking to have done, he makes his own spokes. He is busy as he has lots of trials riders sending wheels to him. He's done the wheels on my M10 and M27 Sherpas. He can also get hubs / rims anodised, painted, polished, whatever is asked for

The blind bearings in the crankcase, heat the casing and try tapping the housings with a hide or rubber mallet or such like, as this might drop them out, if not use a blind bearing puller The two main bearings usually stay in the crankcase, I'm guessing they didn't as the bush that sits on the crank behind the clutch weight is still in situ ? It looks to be from the picture but not sure. If it is it will hold the bearings onto the crank. These bushes can be very tight sometimes so you may need a normal bearing puller to get them off and pull the bush with them. Without the bush they would normally prise off quite easily Not sure about repairing crankshaft surfaces as that's specialist and I've never had it done. Someone will know. Make sure you use 6205 C3 bearings on the crank, not plain 6205 The detent needs to come out really otherwise reassembling the gearbox can be awkward as it means trying to get the selctor drum in whilst holding the plunger back and out of the way against the spring. They can be tight but it should undo without too much trouble Yes the old race cups need to come out of the headstock as the taper rollers have their own The seat is a push fit into a slot at the front of the fibreglass side panel unit and then held at the rear by two springs from the seat to the frame, there should be two spring hooks on the inside of the frame by the top shock mount

In Motion are closed for Easter, open again Tuesday. With the gearbox, there is one selector that will fit either way around, if wrong 4th and 5th gears can't be selected, it will only go to 3rd, so just test the gears with a dummy build of just the gearbox and selector mechanism to ensure all 5 engage before fully assembling

Which plates, friction or drive. From memory, the friction plates are the same on all Sherpas but the drive plates are different on the M10. possibly the same as a Sherpa N, but don't actually know. In Motion may have some now if any came with the NOS they have recently taken in. Or these people in Spain may be able to help https://www.motosdelabuelo.com/pdf/bultaco.pdf

If it is a UK bike with alloy tank I'd be surprised if it doesn't leak from somewhere or have been repaired.... You can get ethanol free petrol in Brum, the high octane petrol from Esso and BP has none, Shell Vpower has none. The pumps might say E5 now as that is law as it means that the fuel can contain up to a max of 5% ethanol, the key there being 'up to' as that also means none. If your tank is fibregalss and you want to line it then Caswell has a good reputation. I've used it on some tanks but it is tedious to do, especially the prep work, but the prep work is the most important. Before you buy electronic, try running it on points, I have a '76 247 which is still on points, no performance gain with electronic in my opinion, just removes the pain of messing with points

Let's start again. You've said that your bike is a model 150. That is a 250cc model from 1974/75. These were manufactured with a fibreglass one piece tank seat unit in red with silver stripe, the side panels were ribbed. When they came to the UK the importers removed this tank unit and replaced it with an aluminium tank/seat unit in blue with silver stripe and which had smooth side panels under the seat. The bike on the front cover of the Haynes manual is exactly how your bike would have looked when sold except for the cylinder and head which were round, the bike on the manual has square cylinder and head as it is the 325cc version, model 151. When ordering parts always quote the engine or frame number for engine / chassis parts. It's no use quoting a year if someone has replaced the engine or frame with a later or earlier model as parts you receive may not fit. Use the numbers. These bikes are nearly 50 years old and in that time who knows what previous owners have done to them. Why are you going to Spain for parts when you can get virtually everything in the UK from In Motion. They have a universal headlight which looks like the original Bultaco item. If you're fitting it to use on the road after dark you must have a death wish, a candle would be just as effective... This picture of the blue bike shows the tank the M150 would have been sold with from new in the UK. Ignore the bike as it is an earlier model The picture of the red tank is the tank fitted by the factory

When the M159 came out the 350 Sherpa used a bigger bore pipe so earlier model pipes won't fit. You can't buy just a front pipe for the M159 pnwards as the pipe and middle box were a complete unit. You'll need to source another and then cut the silencer off to use the Fecked one. Never tried one so don't know what's involved. The pipe will need to be from the same model, as from 1978 and the model 199, the shape and length of the front pipe changed and may not fit a 159. The manifold was also a different fitting on the later bikes, being bolt on, not slip on with springs. The M182 and M191 are the same bike as a 159 so a pipe off those will fit. But why the Fecked pipe? If the original silencer has lost its silencing, better to repack that, I can't see any advantage to using the aftermarket one.

Glad to help Bill, yes, same one, the bike on Gumtree.

Is this the blue bike ? If it is, from what I can see of it in the pictures it is a mix of a 250cc model 80 frame and tank with the 325cc engine, forks and wheels from a model 125. Top yoke is from the 325 and bottom yoke from the 250. The exhaust looks to be from a later model 250 which fits as the bore size is the same as the early 325. Later 325 had a larger bore exhaust The model 80 is from 1971/72, the model 125 from 1974. They were 325cc but referred to as 350 for some reason. It looks a very nice bike and if it is mechanically as good as it looks then the price is good. The mix of parts is immaterial as to the useability of the bike but some people are obsessed with the matching numbers game - it's irrelevant, it's a trials bike made for throwing up rocks. However, you need to know what's what from a parts / servicing aspect. You need to quote model numbers when buying Bultaco parts as some models overlapped so quoting just a year isn't always sufficient. As others have mentioned DVLA use the chassis to date the bike and won't be interested in the engine. All you need is a dating certificate that states Bultaco Sherpa model number B-80### is a 1971 model - you don't need a date against the engine number. Before you begin the registration process send a V62 to DVLA with the chassis number and they will run a check to see if it is on their system with a registration number. It's worth putting a short covering letter with it saying you've bought the bike with no docs but believe it may have been registered when new but docs have been lost over time. If it is they will send you the V5 and cash your cheque. If it isn't they just write back stating no trace and also return your cheque as they don't charge for no trace.

Pull the decompressor in and give a couple of kicks on wide open throttle to get a bit of fuel through, then with the decompressor still in kick again but let the decompressor out about 1/3 to 1/2 way through its travel. It's trial and error when to let the decompressor out but after a few attempts you'll get it. I always start my 247 Cota like this as well as my Ossa MARs which can have a habit of slipping on the kickstart ratchet against the compression - using the decompressor takes the strain off and stops that happening

The information on the swingarm length is incorrect as it describes the MK1 MAR swingarm as longer than the MK2 whereas it is the other way around, MK1 short and MK2 long. The 1976 MK3 also had the long swingarm not the short one. The TR77 went back to the short swingarm but it says it has the longer one. I guess it's possible some TR77 may have had the longer swingarm, I don't know

I'm not sure what information it is you're looking for now? Glass's guide won't give you anything you don't have already. If it is a 150 which I'm assuming it is from your picture, but you haven't confirmed, then that's all you need for dating it. The other possibility is the previous model, a model 124 but I think 150. It's just that at some point someone has fitted a later tank, probably because the original got smashed or perished - not unusual for a 40 year old trials bike to get altered. Whether it was a UK bike originally doesn't matter, a model 150 is a model 150 and they are all the same wherever the factory sent them, it's just that the UK importer swapped the tank unit for the alloy one due to UK law prohibiting the use of fibreglass tanks on the road. All Spanish trials bikes from '73 on had alloy tanks fitted in the UK. You see the bracket on the frame upright going up to the top of the rear shock? That's where the original tank/seat unit fastens, there's another on the other side. On the top tube at the front of the tank there should be a threaded stud that secures the front of the original tank which is either hidden underneath the tank or has been cut off to accomodate the later tank VMCC won't date a bike for you unless you become a member If you're going to try and re-register it on an age related plate you may have an issue with DVLA as they will probably want a picture of the bike from both sides and maybe to inspect it and if they are on the ball and realise that it has a later tank fitted they could deem it modified and who knows where that could go with DVLA

The tank on yours is from a later blue model, the 199a from 1979. This style tank was introduced on the last red bike, the 199 in 1978. The tank fitted to the 150 is as per the pictures I put up earlier, It was the last Sherpa fitted with the one piece tank seat unit. The next model, the 158/159 had a seperate tank and seat with seperate side panels. The tank on this Sherpa and on the 182/183 and 190/191 was similar to yours but not the same as it didn't taper towards the rear like yours. These three models were pretty much identical From new none of the bikes had a brace on the handlebars in the early to mid 70s, these were introduced later on. The blue bike in the picture was mine and had modern renthals fitted This link will give you pictures of how the factory produced the bikes. As mentioned before the model 150/151 for the UK had a one-off alloy tank in blue/silver and white mudguards not alloy so you won't find factory pictures for that. If you want to see what that looked like check ebay and search for the Haynes manual for Bultaco as it is the bike on the front cover http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm

More accurately, a model 150 was produced late 1974 to probably mid 1975 and was then replaced by the next model which was visually very different. From the factory the 150 had a fibreglass one piece tank/seat unit like this: For the UK this was replaced at import with an alloy one piece tank/seat unit like this, as fibreglass had been made illegal for road use: The next model had seperate tank and sidepanel units with a tank similar to yours

The frame number will date it which is on the headstock, I'd guess it's a model 150 from 1975 with a later model tank fitted. If you send the frame and engine numbers to In Motion who are Bultacoi specialists they will provide a dating certificate. Why do you want the certificate, to register it ? https://www.inmotiontrials.com/