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woody

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Everything posted by woody
 
 
  1. Of course it's about excluding if you maintain that you can't cater for both. If you're not willing to do something about a problem that you perceive, why keep dragging the subject up? Cheating implies that someone is hiding or not disclosing something and stating that something is what it isn't. Pre65 is just a class name. There is no cheating going on, everyone knows what the bikes are and no-one is hiding anything or cheating so I don't know where you get your ideas from. 30 riders at the NBBC... were you there to count them? If you were I hope your job doesn't entail working with figures.... Try around 70 for the last few rounds and around 120 for the first.Not bad seeing as some people still haven't started back due to covid worries Yes there were big bikes in original spec which are those I referred to as having cleaned a section that some riders on modified lightweights didn't. Pre65 orginated in the 70s which gave riders who were no longer competitive on current bikes the oportunity to drag old British bikes out of sheds and have some fun - nothing to do with cost. These riders would have been around their 30s then so most would be well into their 70s now. How many do you think are still capable of riding those big, heavy standard bikes. That is also a huge factor in what you see as a decline in big bikes being entered. Few riders from subsequent eras have any interest in riding those bikes. Older riders have been able to continue ridng into their 70s and even 80s purely because of the modernised lightweight Cubs and Bantams. Without them they would have hung up their boots long ago and it's likely there would be virtually no British bike events without them - what do you think the average age at one of these events is? Try going to some events. speaking with some of them and get their views on the viability of them riding an original spec British bike
  2. So in the 5 years or so since you last raised this topic what have you done? Again you're calling for class changes, rule changes etc to existing trials which are well supported and don't need them. Why? In those 5 years you could have drawn up a set of rules and regulations for a genuine Pre65 British Bike series within the guidelines you mention and in which you can exclude all of the modernised bikes by having a dedicated scrutineer at each event. You could have lobbied clubs in your region or wider afield to find any willing to help you stage events for a pilot series, got your ideas out to riders, clubs, organiusers using facebook which is now the prime media for promoting events and see what level of support you would have. Run a pilot event to your spec and see what level of support you get. Why insist everyone else change whatever format they have when that format works and riders are happy with it. If you want trials for original bikes only you have had a long time to get something up and running With regard to actual events, I was at yesterday's NBBC round at which there was a variety of bikes in different states of modification from stanfard big banger rigids and pre-units to the latest modified Bantams, Cubs etc. A section I was helping observe on after my own bike had a mechanical, had a tricky exit but saw cleans on the easy route from a couple of rigids and pre-units whilst many riders on modernised lightweights lost marks - yet you say the two don't mix... I think before you comment about how rules need changing you should attend some of these events and ask the riders themselves - from the feedback, everyone had an enoyable day at yesterday's NBBC round
  3. That's good news, I saw a facebook post a few days ago with only around 30 entered it was in danger of being cancelled, so good to see the entries have picked up. It's a very enjoyable trial
  4. woody

    OSSA

    I don't thnk there is one for the TR77 specifically but there is an engine build manual for earlier 5 speed models which will suffice for the TR77 as they are pretty much identical http://ossa.2y.net/index.html Also parts lists here and other useful stuff for most Ossas http://www.vitalemaquinas.com/descargas.htm
  5. woody

    OSSA

    Yes they are
  6. woody

    OSSA

    The best option is buy the green mudguards and then match the paint to them. The current green guards aren't the same shade as the originals which were darker and a bit drab. I don't know the RAL code for the original green, also a bit drab looking, and doubt anyone has it but if you did manage to find it and use it for the frame, the mudguards will be lighter and won't match The black was usually semi gloss / satin rather than full gloss
  7. The gearbox from an M85 Alpina should go straight in but later models will have differences in shaft diameter and clutch hub mounting so aren't a straight swap Much easier to just change the sprockets than gearbox ratios. Standard Sherpa size for that year is 11 / 46 for a 520 chain or 13 / 52 for a 428 chain, just fit bigger front, smaller rear
  8. 34 is a MK1 Ossa MAR 1972/73 250cc. The frames weren't stamped with a number on the MK1 they had a sticker on the headstock. The frame has been repainted as they were siver/grey originally
  9. Autotek is acrylic paint and may not be resistant to petrol - most modern paints don't seem to be. If you spill any whilst filling the tank you could end up with an unsightly blemish if it isn't. Paint something else that doesn't matter and when cured pour / rub some petrol on it, better to find out that way than ruin you tank paint job. Halfords paint for example is acrylic and although gives a really nice finish from a can, when it comes into contact with petrol it virtually dissolves
  10. The 199 exhaust has a higher rise over the head than the 191 pipe so it will sit a lot closer to the underside of the tank. It also bolts directly to the cylinder so you'd need to remove the manifold from the 191 cylinder. You might also find the outlet doesn't match the inlet of the rear silencer in respect of tube diameters but if so that can be sorted by welding the correct size tube to either one. You're not really going to know the answer to your question completely without trying it For interchanging parts it's difficult to give a precise answer as there are differences. Not many engine parts are directly compatible, head and barrel can be changed together but not individually as 199 uses a head gasket, 191 doesn't. Gearbox internals are different, crank probably looks the same but the 191 has a single bearing on the clutch side, the 199 might be a double, can't remember. Forks and wheels are the same
  11. woody

    OSSA MAR oil leak

    They shouldn't leak. I've found using talc helps pinpoint where it first comes from, dry it all off, shower it in talc and then you can see where the wet patch first appears What can happen with the MAR is that the bashplate gets bent upwards in the middle from repeated contact with the scenery and this can expose the sump plug. If the plug then starts taking hits it can crack the casing around the plug but yours looks fine. It could possibly cause distortion which stops the cases mating fully, not sure Some of the gaskets these days are horribly thin and if there is any imperfection in the mating surfaces oil finds a way past and drips Yours has grey sealer as well as a gasket., possibly 3 bond as that is grey but that would usually fill any imperfection in the mating surface I'd have thought as it's good stuff The gear shaft has an O ring either end but from the ignition side it can't be replaced without splitting the engine as the shaft can't be removed without splitting. It might be possible with the end of the gear shaft cut off flush with the casing to expose the O ring if the shaft is pushed fully inwards with the clutch cover off I've found with these older engines that it's best to put a little oil in before fitting back into the bike and leaving for a day or two to see if there are any leaks. A short term fix is dry it all off once you've pinpointed the leak and apply some plastic padding leak fix along the gasket which should hold it. The only correct fix is a strip and inspection of the mating surfaces which might need facing off or to see if there is a hairline crack anywhere First though, see if you can tighten the crankcase screws any further - you never know...
  12. If you leave it as it is it can't the bolt should still secure it as it is also held with the straps below the seat - but to repair it I'd fill with fibreglass resin and make solid again, then re-drill the holes
  13. As mentioned the tank cover holds it on, bolted at the front and straps at the rear below the seat
  14. I think wherever you buy the points from they are going to be the same pattern points you have already got. Ideally you need to try and find a set of original Femsa if they are still available but no idea where you would get some from. All of the parts stockists I know of, Spain included, sell the pattern points. The issue I had with them is the position of the terminal screw for the wiring which sits directly in front of the coil and makes it extremely difficult to connect the wires - enough so that I bought electronic for my bikes. Add to that I absolutely hate the fiddle of trying to work through a stupidly tiny hole in a flywheel...
  15. It's a cover from an earlier 349, the MK3 white model '81, not an '84, the last MK4 349 from 82-84 had a plastic tank, also with flat sides, no molding behind where the round Montesa badge fits. But yes, someone has just cut it to slip over the bolt
  16. You can only use road legal enduro tyres on the road - they are marked with the E mark in a circle. If they don't have that they aren't legal for road use. You won't need an MOT to register it on a 74 plate, nor insurance.
  17. The DVLA inspection for registration, if they ask for one as they don't in every case, doesn't look for things like that, it's really to ensure you're actually registering what you say you are, chassis number check etc. and not to check RTA conformities. I don't know if the law from 1973 is still in force and I think it was to actually prevent new machines being sold with glass tanks, as there were still bikes being used on the road back then with glass tanks. There are plenty of bikes in use now with glass tanks
  18. The thread on the spindle is a smaller diameter than the spindle shaft. If you remove the nut and washer and just eave the chain adjuster on, you will see that the spindle shaft extends past the adjuster. You need a washer that is the correct ID to slip over the shaft itself not just the threads and the washer also needs to be thick enough that none of the shaft is exposed. If it isn't set up like this the nut will reach the end of the thread and tightens against the spindle shaft itself, not the swingarm From your parts list it looks as though you have the thick washer on the wrong side
  19. woody

    M10 Restoration

    There isn't an actual paint code that Bultaco used. I've seen RAL 9006 recommended. Or the old Ford late 1960s colour of Silver Fox is a good match
  20. ok, understand what you mean now, I wondered if you meant a different shape. I don't know for definite but I think the deeper, more pronounced lettering came with the A models on the Sherpas. Your first picture looks like a 198/199 case
  21. What's different on your 198A case?
  22. I've just had a part arrive from France which was under 135 euros and it all seems to have gone ok, no import duty charged and the price included tax (ie: VAT) so no demand for tax at delivery. Item was 47.70 plus 15.00 postage, total 62.70. 10.45 of that was the tax I'm now waiting for a part from Spain which was 135 euros exactly so not sure if this should fall into the items up to 135 band. which means no import duty and tax charged by retailer, as I don't know if ''up to'' is inclusive of 135, so it could be under or over. However the postage is 30 euros so the total cost is 165.00. What I also don't know is if the up to 135 scale applies to just the item cost or the total including postage. The item cost is 135, post is 30 and the total of 165 includes tax of 28.64 so I have paid the tax. I don't know if this is correct or not and I don't know if the retailer has just conducted the transaction adhering to the new rules or not... I just have to wait and see what happens when it arrives.... For the parcel you sent there should have been no import duty and I don't understand why the post office charged you either as it should be collected here upon receipt I think
  23. We all pay VAT on purchases from within our own countries and buyers within the EU have always paid VAT when buying from other EU countries, it was collected by the retailer and paid to their government as it was their VAT. The price we've paid has always included tax. What's changed for the UK is that the VAT is now paid by the retailer to the UK to HMRC for purchases up to 135 euros. Anything over and the VAT is collected here, payable before you can collect your item (as it is with import duty on USA items for example) What's also happening now is that couriers are asking for the VAT when delivering and for the extra work they're adding their own fee, so the only additional cost is the handling fee, but the perception is we're paying more because we now pay VAT 'at the door' upon delivery. What we have to check is that we're not being double charged for VAT... Without doubt it's put additional burden on EU sellers and I can see that some won't send items to the UK until it's sorted out - if it is...
  24. The VAT is not new, we've always paid VAT on items bought from the EU. The way it's collected has changed and as you've said is now creating more work for the retailer. Import fees shouldn't apply to a purchase under 135.00 euros UK couriers can also add their own handling fees
  25. What I forgot to say is that some Spanish dealers still have this chain available. If you google Bultaco simplex primary chain you should find them, Classicdiaz, ,Motos Luis, Motos del Abuelo etc
 
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