ming

Well - I'm hoping the advice from Scottyboy above is sound and that the Sherco one will fit. I have the original spacers and stops from the existing pedal - there's nothing wrong with it, other than it sits too far forward to get my boot over it comfortably. The H&D levers are very nice but too pricey for me......

Cheers for that tip. Have just spoken to Vince at Haven and he thinks he has a Sherco one in stock so will swap them over and hope it goes on without any hassle.

The standard Montesa rear brake lever I have is okay but bent inwards and has marked the clutch cover. It's also too far forward for my liking and I was wondering whether it's possible to buy a short lever that sits closer to the footpegs and hopefully may avoid future contact with the clutch cover. Any ideas?

Wilfie - I have the same problem with the rear brake pedal being too far forward and it's also got bent over the years before I got it and now the folding tip is dangerously close to the clutch case! Where did you get the shorter brake pedal? And how much more expensive is the Mitani clutch as mine needs new plates ...... Cheers

That makes sense Chris. Thing is, I watch with envy as riders on other bikes slip into neutral and give their clutch hand a rest whilst waiting at the sections - if I need a break I have to stall the bike and then restart it when I'm ready for the off.

Did the deed today - bike on its' side, clutch cover off (gasket was fine so re-used), clutch apart. Metal drive plates were fine as was the basket. Fibre plates all had bits of friction material in between where they're supposed to be so scraped that off with a scalpel and used wet and dry to rub down the edges. Put it all back together and hey presto - I can move the bike around in gear with the clutch in before starting it. Got it running and another revelation - no clutch slip in 3rd and 4th gears uphill. Still having trouble getting neutral with the bike running though.......and I now have a ticking/rattle when pulling the clutch in with the engine running which disappears when the clutch is out - any ideas?

Thanks bud - got nothing to lose apart for a few quid for the wet and dry paper and maybe a gasket if the original is knackered. I use ATF as that was recommended on here and it's only done about 5 hours since it was changed.

Shame there seems to be a few areas (stator, water pump corrosion and now rear brakes) where Beta falls down, otherwise it's a cracking bike. I guess there are always going to be weak points to any trials bike though? Anyway, back on topic: I have put new pads in the rear brake when I bought the bike (Y2K Rev3) and although I have great braking with the wheel being easy to lock but no binding I have a concern with the rear pedal - there is no free play before it operates and twiddling the adjustment rod does nothing apart from make the pedal even lower and then you can't get enough leverage to lock the wheel - I would like to raise it but if you lift the pedal it moves about 2 inches with no resistance. I had th exhaust off to see if there was another adjuster hidden behind the frame but there doesn't seem to be a way of manually adjusting the height of the pedal or the free play before it bites - any suggestions?

As I thought then - new plates are

I seem to be having a similar problem as the guys with the Techno in an earlier thread - the clutch on my Y2K Rev3 250 sticks when cold so bad that even in 2nd gear, clutch in on tarmac it locks up when being pushed to free them off. Eventually it releases enough for the back wheel to turn and then I need to find neutral before kicking it over to start. I have trouble (in fact nearly impossible) to find neutral when it's running so for every section I have to kill the engine if I need to rest unless I have a friend to hold the clutch in! I've also noticed that in higher gears (4th upwards) it tends to slip although there is no problem in lower gears and in sections themselves, only on long climbs back to the van. Is it worth taking the clutch plates out and reassembling them in a different order as some have done before or has it gone too far for that and only a replacement set will do? Cheers

Some very useful info there guys - thanks. One thing on the topic of the water pump casing corrosion - mine's an early Rev3 (year 2000) and there's mention of 2 different casing materials. Is mine the preferred aluminium one or are all of them magnesium?

I'm up to speed on the gearbox oil and premix situation but the flywheel thing confuses me! What happens if you don't take the cover off each ride? And does the gasket need replacing each time? Sorry if I sound a numpty but it's the first 2 stroke I've had for quite a while......

When you say "on other bikes" do you mean trials bikes or road/enduro bikes? I was amazed at how slow the revs drop on my 2000 Rev3 compared to my 450cc enduro bike - apparently that's normal and I guess down to the heavy flywheel action? If it's different to other trials bikes then you need to investigate further.

I was in the same boat as you mate a few weeks ago, albeit with a ceiling of

Had a look at that site but there was only a manual for 2008 models. I've dropped the gearbox oil out and refilled it with ATF fluid which seems to be recommended - about 500ml did the job. Put in new rear brake pads as well, although I had to file down some of the meat as they were a tad too wide for the disc, even with the pistons fully in!