Jump to content

ming

Members
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ming
 
 
  1. Well - I'm hoping the advice from Scottyboy above is sound and that the Sherco one will fit. I have the original spacers and stops from the existing pedal - there's nothing wrong with it, other than it sits too far forward to get my boot over it comfortably. The H&D levers are very nice but too pricey for me......
  2. Cheers for that tip. Have just spoken to Vince at Haven and he thinks he has a Sherco one in stock so will swap them over and hope it goes on without any hassle.
  3. The standard Montesa rear brake lever I have is okay but bent inwards and has marked the clutch cover. It's also too far forward for my liking and I was wondering whether it's possible to buy a short lever that sits closer to the footpegs and hopefully may avoid future contact with the clutch cover. Any ideas?
  4. Wilfie - I have the same problem with the rear brake pedal being too far forward and it's also got bent over the years before I got it and now the folding tip is dangerously close to the clutch case! Where did you get the shorter brake pedal? And how much more expensive is the Mitani clutch as mine needs new plates ...... Cheers
  5. ming

    Dragging Clutch Rev3

    That makes sense Chris. Thing is, I watch with envy as riders on other bikes slip into neutral and give their clutch hand a rest whilst waiting at the sections - if I need a break I have to stall the bike and then restart it when I'm ready for the off.
  6. ming

    Dragging Clutch Rev3

    Did the deed today - bike on its' side, clutch cover off (gasket was fine so re-used), clutch apart. Metal drive plates were fine as was the basket. Fibre plates all had bits of friction material in between where they're supposed to be so scraped that off with a scalpel and used wet and dry to rub down the edges. Put it all back together and hey presto - I can move the bike around in gear with the clutch in before starting it. Got it running and another revelation - no clutch slip in 3rd and 4th gears uphill. Still having trouble getting neutral with the bike running though.......and I now have a ticking/rattle when pulling the clutch in with the engine running which disappears when the clutch is out - any ideas?
  7. ming

    Dragging Clutch Rev3

    Thanks bud - got nothing to lose apart for a few quid for the wet and dry paper and maybe a gasket if the original is knackered. I use ATF as that was recommended on here and it's only done about 5 hours since it was changed.
  8. Shame there seems to be a few areas (stator, water pump corrosion and now rear brakes) where Beta falls down, otherwise it's a cracking bike. I guess there are always going to be weak points to any trials bike though? Anyway, back on topic: I have put new pads in the rear brake when I bought the bike (Y2K Rev3) and although I have great braking with the wheel being easy to lock but no binding I have a concern with the rear pedal - there is no free play before it operates and twiddling the adjustment rod does nothing apart from make the pedal even lower and then you can't get enough leverage to lock the wheel - I would like to raise it but if you lift the pedal it moves about 2 inches with no resistance. I had th exhaust off to see if there was another adjuster hidden behind the frame but there doesn't seem to be a way of manually adjusting the height of the pedal or the free play before it bites - any suggestions?
  9. ming

    Dragging Clutch Rev3

    As I thought then - new plates are
  10. ming

    Dragging Clutch Rev3

    I seem to be having a similar problem as the guys with the Techno in an earlier thread - the clutch on my Y2K Rev3 250 sticks when cold so bad that even in 2nd gear, clutch in on tarmac it locks up when being pushed to free them off. Eventually it releases enough for the back wheel to turn and then I need to find neutral before kicking it over to start. I have trouble (in fact nearly impossible) to find neutral when it's running so for every section I have to kill the engine if I need to rest unless I have a friend to hold the clutch in! I've also noticed that in higher gears (4th upwards) it tends to slip although there is no problem in lower gears and in sections themselves, only on long climbs back to the van. Is it worth taking the clutch plates out and reassembling them in a different order as some have done before or has it gone too far for that and only a replacement set will do? Cheers
  11. ming

    Rev 3 2004

    Some very useful info there guys - thanks. One thing on the topic of the water pump casing corrosion - mine's an early Rev3 (year 2000) and there's mention of 2 different casing materials. Is mine the preferred aluminium one or are all of them magnesium?
  12. ming

    Rev 3 2004

    I'm up to speed on the gearbox oil and premix situation but the flywheel thing confuses me! What happens if you don't take the cover off each ride? And does the gasket need replacing each time? Sorry if I sound a numpty but it's the first 2 stroke I've had for quite a while......
  13. ming

    Rev 3 Over Revving

    When you say "on other bikes" do you mean trials bikes or road/enduro bikes? I was amazed at how slow the revs drop on my 2000 Rev3 compared to my 450cc enduro bike - apparently that's normal and I guess down to the heavy flywheel action? If it's different to other trials bikes then you need to investigate further.
  14. I was in the same boat as you mate a few weeks ago, albeit with a ceiling of
  15. Had a look at that site but there was only a manual for 2008 models. I've dropped the gearbox oil out and refilled it with ATF fluid which seems to be recommended - about 500ml did the job. Put in new rear brake pads as well, although I had to file down some of the meat as they were a tad too wide for the disc, even with the pistons fully in!
  16. Anyone know what the capacity is for the gearbox oil on a 2000 model Rev3 250? And what brands/type would you recommend? I'd really like it if there was a manual in pdf format I could download instead of badgering all of you guys!
  17. ming

    New Beta Owner

    Here's the update...... Checked coolant and because you can't see the level I topped it up...needlessly as it was full so will expect to lose some when it runs again! At least I know it's watertight, the fan works, so I'm confident it'll be fine for a day's use. Too much play in the throttle cable for my liking so took the carb off and wound the adjuster out as far as it would go - still not perfect so I guess the cable has stretched so much I need a new one? Rear brake lever was too high so adjusted it so it's fine for me but now it doesn't work - I'm guessing that because the pads are so worn out the lever had to be adjusted up making the lever high in order for it to operate the brake? I hope that when the new pads go in the lever can stay at the optimum position and still work the brake. Head bearings were loose but that was simply a case of tightening the things up! One other thing - the side stand had broken off at the mounting and been thrown. I want to fit another one but will one from a different make/model fit my Rev3 using the original mountings on the swingarm?
  18. ming

    New Beta Owner

    Right then........ Starting at the back and working forward: back wheel out and have a butchers at the brake. I was mistaken and the fact is the pads are down to almost zero! Will get some this week in time for next Friday's trial but they were okay for todays' shakedown. Straightened the chain tensioner as that had taken a knock, cleaned the pistons up, chain cleaned (and joint circlip put in the right way round.......)and lubed. Much better - wheel spins easily now and the brake works well enough to lock the wheel on descents. Pedal still too high and a bit tucked in so will see to that this week. Rear mudguard/seat unit off - needed to replace the bolts holding it on as they were mullered! Air filter out and remove a kilo of grass and dust.....! Cleaned, dried and oiled after replacing the screws holding that in as well. The airbox itself was clean enough though. The spark plug was a tad oily but the previous owner was running it at 50/1. It's bloody tight in and around the engine isn't it?! Not sure if there is an expansion tank for the radiator and if so, where? Couldn't see any way to top it up. Swingarm bolt/spindle was tight enough so the play is down to the bearings but I'll leave it for now. There is also a few mm travel in the bottom of the shock mount when the rear is off the ground - normal? Once warm the engine revs cleanly and the crackly exhaust gets a lot quieter. Will repack the end can next week as well. Checked the tyre pressures......would you believe 40psi rear 25psi front?!! Using 6psi in both now - what do you guys reckon is best for novice trials in the south where it's mud/leaves rather than rocks? Roll on Friday and my first trial!
  19. ming

    New Beta Owner

    Thanks for the input guys. I'm having a look at the carb and air filter in the morning. Could be gummed up as it's not been used much for the last year. Swingarm has about 2mm sideways play - you'd think it was wheel bearings but they're fine. I'll try to torque the spindle up first though! Any idea of torque settings for the spindle nut and rear wheel nut? Really looking forward to getting out on it tomorrow afternoon...
  20. ming

    New Beta Owner

    Hi All, Just picked up a 2000 year Beta Rev 3 250cc. Seems fine apart from a few issues so will be tapping your collective brains for info! First up is slight sideways play in the swingarm which I'm guessing is only going to be solved by removing the spindle and replacing the bearings. Rear brake squeaks a little and doesn't stop the bike, just slightly slow it down! Plenty of meat on the pads so I'm going to take the caliper off and see if the piston's sticking. Engine doesn't seem to rev cleanly and as the bike's not been used much for a year I'm sure it would benefit for a carb strip as the jets may be blocked? Finally (for now) - there's a distinct crackle from the exhaust so is this an indication that the silencer needs re-packing and if so, how do I go about that? Is the can designed to be opened and closed up again on a regular basis? Sorry for the initial questions but I'm keen to get it running right asap. Cheers
 
×
  • Create New...