Now here is another slant on the subject. As a checker in the Maryland and Pennsylvania woods, I always welcomed the exhaust fumes to help keep the May flies, ticks, deer fly's, and mosquito's at bay.
Oil recommendations can get quite opinionated at times, but in our family of bikes (three vintaqe Montesa's, a 2011 Gas Gas 300, and two 2014 Beta 300's) we use Maxima MTL 75wt oil. It's designed for wet clutches and In my opinion far superior to 10W30 or ATF
It will typically take a 17mm socket to remove the 10mm nuts.
Insert 7mm Allen wrench into hole and engage sleeve nut.
Turn counterclockwise and unscrew from stud.
Remove with pencil magnet.
Tap cylinder with rubber or dead blow hammer to loosen connection. Strike against the edge of the fins, not on top or bottom of them. You can also strike beneath the intake manifold and exhaust port. Do not use a hard hammer.
Slide cylinder up part way.
Press rags or paper kitchen towels in crankcase beneath piston.
Remove cylinder.
This all seems very simple. About 1 out of every 2 engines has a severely stuck sleeve nut. You can soak the nut with liquid wrench or any number of penetrating oils and let it stand for a day or more. I haven’t the patience. Even after a week of using penetrant it only works about 1/10th of the time. What to do, what to do? Heat? Doesn’t work. Maybe the stud will pull before the Allen wrench rounds off the inside of the nut. Been there, done that. The sleeve nut will round out. Once you rounded out the nut it’s time to drill.
Drilling:
Get some cutting oil and an electric drill.
Select a suitable sharp drill bit. Make the selection of a size that will only drill the stud out. Remove all of the sleeve nuts that can be removed.
You don’t want to drill into the cylinder casting.
Start drilling. This will take some time but at least you will feel like you are doing something.
Remove chips occasionally with the pencil magnet.
Measure your progress in some fashion.
Resume drilling. Eventually you will destroy enough of the stud to remove the cylinder.
Use locking pliers and remove the remains of the stud.
Order another stud and nut.
There are special steel washers at the bottom of those holes for the sleeve nut to press against. If they fall out; save them. If they stayed in the hole, leave them there. Just remember to return the washers to the correct holes on reassembly. Clean all nuts and loose washers. Use a 7mm x 1.00 tap and die to clean the threads.
I have the same right leg and age problem as Taffe and Linaway, with my son's 2011 TXT Pro 300. Yesterday, after cleaning some crap out of the pilot jet, I kicked it at least 20 to 25 times and after working up a good sweat I just gave up, knowing that something else had to be wrong. My son came over, gave it one good swift kick and it was running. Ah, to be young again.
I've been running Amsoil Interceptor oil at 60 to 1 for the past ten years in both my vintage (Montesa 348) and modern (Gas Gas and Beta) with good results.
Common practice on Montesa's is to disconnect the stock unit in the backing plate. Purchase any good automotive condenser and mount and ground it between the frame reinforcements in the headstock. Splice the condenser wire to the hot wire from the coil. No more heat failures or pitted points.
Check out www.newyorkaircooledtrials.com. Another gate style trials where you are free to choose you path through each section. Their last meet of the year is scheduled for October 25 at Apalachin NY.
In the process of restoring a 1983 Cota 350 (red fenders / silver frame) and I am looking for a source for decals. It appears each fender had a Montesa decal. The tank had a Cota 350 decal on each side, with a small Montesa decal at the top front of the tank. I've checked the following so far with no luck (In Motion, France Trial Classic, Vallmoto, Classic Transfers, Classic Bike Decals, Storm Grafix)
I installed a S3 flywheel weight on my 2011 Gas Gas TXT Pro 300 and now question whether anyone supplies a gear shift lever to accommodate the additional depth of the clutch cover. With the weight and cover spacer installed, the clutch cover moves out approximately 6 mm (0.236 in) and the shift lever, which previously had full spline engagement on the shaft now has 6 mm less engagement. Hate to bend the shift lever, but with less than full spline engagement the shift lever loosens and must be tightened after every meet.
Is there a longer shift lever, or an alternative fix.
Install the spring so that the hooked end fits in the kick start lever slot below the clamp bolt. Then insert the straight end of the spring into the hole in the flywheel case, directly above the kick start shaft. Do this before engaging the kick start lever on the shaft splines. You may have to stretch the spring out slightly. Then with the spring engaged, turn the kick start lever to the 1 o'clock position and slide the kick start lever onto the shaft splines. Ensure that the kick start shaft is turned fully clockwise before installation of the spring.
Although there are some components that do not match, it appears that you may have a 1977 or 1978 247 Cota. Compare yours to the Model Gallery on www.southwestmontesa.com
To look at this from another perspective, I always thought the bikes idling while in line was great. Keeps all the mayflies, gnats, and mosquitoes from feasting on you while you sit in line.
As mentioned above the clutch is slipping. Back off on the clutch adjustment and don't overlook something as simple as a kinked clutch cable. Putting a kink in the clutch cable can happen very easy if you don't tuck the cable behind the front edge of the gas tank after raising the tank.
In spite of what most are posting, my observations especially while checking, was that in the beginner and novice sections, with riders of equal talent, the heavier rider always seemed to be less prone to being kicked off line. Once you move up in section difficulty, I would agree that weight becomes more of a detriment.
OKO not OK!
in Fantic
Posted
Check the jet block gasket. A failed, or out of place, gasket can cause both fuel and air leakage