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waynerobshaw

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Everything posted by waynerobshaw

  1. Hi Chaps, Before I read your posting, I had the motor off and the bike in bits only to find the motor spun fine when wired straight to the batteries (the motor connector took some removing - the connectors were properly seized!) So, I shorted out the potentiometer (now I see I should left it open circuit), still no better. Dismantled the throttle and sprayed it with WD40...wahlah....its working! So, you we're both spot on, it would appear that the throttle was the problem! Your postings provide a few good diagnostic pointers too, so many thanks to all! Cheers, Wayne.
  2. Hi All, Anyone had this one? While riding today, bike lost power and intermittently now works. With the batteries fully charged and the throttle showing full power, the rear wheel won't spin. If I lift the rear wheel off the ground and spin it by manually it will start spinning albeit a lot slower than it should be. As soon as the throttle shut off, it won't spin up again unless I spin it manually again. It sounds like motor brushes to me, but can anyone confirm? Cheers all, Wayne.
  3. Hi Chaps, As in the subject, I have a 2006 280 pro with a fan that kicks in at approx 165 degree's F but never then stops. With the fan spinning, the temp does keep dropping to 140's degrees's F (possibly more if I left it), so the cooling system is working. I suspect its the temp sender, but before I replace it, can anyone confirm? I've confirmed on another bike (2004 250 pro) that the fan kicks it at around 170 and stays on until around 160. The 2006 should be stopping around 150-160, but it just doesn't. (all temps checked with with a temp gun) Cheers, Wayne.
  4. Hi all, I recently bought a second hand 2012 24v 16.0 and are struggling to get more than 20 minutes run time, infact the leds in the throttle show "low" after about 5-10 mins. Surely i can expect better than this? So far ive tried: 2 sets of new batteries Checking for excessive drag in the drivetrain (the motor is notchy when spun but i get this is normal?) Checked the balance of the batteries Charged the batteries with a car charger as well as the oset one Any thoughts anyone? Cheers Wayne
  5. Hi All, My little one has a 2012 24v 16.0 with 14ah batteries. Its in need of some new batteries, so would 15ah batteries be ok to use and would there be any benefits? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f25a43868 Cheers, Wayne.
  6. Thanks for the replies guys. I walked away from buying, I don't think I'll be rushing back Cheers, Wayne.
  7. Hi All, Just been to view a 01/02 290 and the engine seems very mechanically noisy to me. Unfortunately, I've no frame of reference to what's normal since I've only ever had gassers. How mechanically noisy should a 01/02 290 be in comparison to a similar age gasser. I know sound is very subjective, but any pointers would be useful. The bike and gearbox ran fine, but it was hard to hear myself speak over the chattering of the engine. Its didn't sound knocky, just generally noisy! One thing I did find strange is that at one point, I cut the engine and it almost just stopped instantly without any spin down. Are the flywheel weights small on these motors or is this a sign of some kind of mechanical issues with the motor. I almost thought it had seized, but it kicked up happily again. Cheers guys for any wisdom, Wayne.
  8. The stator resistance should be 100Ohms between the black wire coming from the stator to earth. If its significantly more or less, suspect the stator. I had a very week spark until eventually I had no spark. It ended up being the coil/CDI unit. £70 from GG Unfortunately, I never found a way to diagnose the CDI, I get open circuit between all terminals even on a working one! Cheers, Wayne.
  9. Hi Copemech, After thinking the coil was buggered due to being open circuit, I ordered a new one from GG....£60! Anyway, before fitting I checked the resistances on the new one...still open circuit!! Eh??? So, I thought I might as well try it anyway and sure enough I now have a nice blue spark! So, it looks as thought the coil was at fault but checking the resistance isn't a way to diagnose the fault! Its strange, I would have thought the coil would give a Ohms reading of some kind and not just open circuit! Cheers, Wayne.
  10. Hi All, I've checked the resistances of the stator and they seem to checkout ok (about 100 Ohms), so I now want to test the coil. Does anybody know what resistances I should be seeing on this Selletra coil between the Earth, Low tension and high tension terminals? (combinations of either): Photo can be found here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2LTO-Xwqu3CZkdhLTQ2THlSRGc So far I'm getting open circuit with all combinations which I assume isn't right! Cheers, Wayne.
  11. Hi Helloyes, Some great information there, thanks very much. I'm still trying to diagnose if the problem is the stator or the CDI. I did get a price for the stator to be rewound, £96, not cheap either! I'll have to work out what you mean about cutting the airbox lid, I'm not sure without taking another look at it. Again, many thanks for you help. Cheers, Wayne.
  12. Hi Chaps, Stator problems are quite common on the 2000 TXT 50 boy as you all probably know. My question is, has anyone got any Ohms ranges from a working stator that I can use to test with mine. I suspect it is the Stator, but just want to be sure before trying to source an extinct item (Selletra stopped making then several years ago). I've seen related postings: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/27035-2000-Gas Gas-txt-50-boy-brand-new-ignitions/ but nothing that details any tests to diagnose. Thanks for any help you can give. Cheers, Wayne.
  13. waynerobshaw

    2013

    Here you go: http://www.trialscentral.com/headline-stories/14045-2013-gas-gas 2012/2013...you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference...
  14. As long as its an 06, you should be fine
  15. I never knew they were worth so much! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-GAS-GAS-TXT-PRO-2006-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-BOOK-PUO10638003-/300671118968?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item4601652e78#ht_2397wt_952 Might sell mine and buy a new bike!
  16. Seems to be a common problem on 300's. As previously mentioned, decoke the head and all will be well. I do it regularly on my 300 when its starts to pink again...
  17. The good news is, that is quite normal. Even a brand new bike does exactly the same, its a common misconception. Search the forum, you see others panicking until they're told its quite normal!
  18. Its always strange to hear how people find the different CC's to ride. Like you, I expected the 300 to be a unwieldy beast. Personally, I find the opposite. The 300 for me is much smoother and more of a puppy a low revs than a 280 or a 250. Sure enough, as soon as you give it some gas it finds its feet, but for me this is perfect. Smooth for crawling, torquey for short sharp blasts up climbs. I went from a 250 to 300 by choice after riding a 300 at the GG test day! As usual though, its all personal taste. Cheers, Wayne
  19. Hi All, Just to let you know, as before, a decoke has cured the problem! I decoked the head and the pinking has vanished! It just likes a clean head Cheers, Wayne.
  20. Thanks for all the replies guys, but after much deliberation, I've decided to stick with what I've got, a nice old 2005 reliable Raga. Maybe in a couple of years...
  21. Hi All, Thinking for getting a 2012 300 racing, but with the 2013 300 Raga round the corner, am I best waiting? Also, anyone got any feedback on the 2012 racing machines, especially the 300? Good/bad? Cheers, Wayne.
  22. Hi All, Some of you may remember this problem before: http://www.trialscen...-choke-onfixed/ Unfortunately, its back again Last time, a decoke seem to fix it, but surely I don't need to do it again already! (November last year) So, just a quick question, could the dodgy seals in the exhaust front pipe (engine side and centre box double o-rings) have any bearing on the knocking problem. The reason I ask is that the exhaust is blowing a little at both where it bolts to the head and inserts in the centre box. Its a Titanium front pipe and its never really fitted correctly with the centre box (its seems too short! - was fitted by the previous owner). I bought 2 new rubber o-rings for the centre box, but the Ti pipe just doesn't mate correctly. Anyway, I was just wondering if the slight blowing of the front pipe could cause the knocking? Otherwise, another de-coke is on its way... Cheers, Wayne
  23. Just something to try, the next time it wont start, drop the bike on its side until fuel leaks out of the carb overflow. As soon as it does, pick the bike up and try kick again. I've used this technique before but with cold start problems....I'd be interested to hear what happens for you...
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