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Everything posted by waynerobshaw

  1. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Scorpa SY250 Stunning bike in excellent condition with receipts. Genuine bike with frame stamps. Lots of new parts with the well renowned Yamaha engine that starts on the first kick everytime. Rare to find in this condition. New parts and not yet been ridden: - Brand new chain - Brand new full set of decals - Brand new air filter - Brand new fuel filter - Brand new chain Just serviced and not yet been ridden: - Gearbox oil changed - Airbox fully cleaned - Coolant changed - Carburettor stripped and cleaned - Throttle cleaned and lubricated General: - Fat bars - Front and rear tyre are in good condition - Fan works correctly without any noise - Gearbox and clutch are super smooth - Genuine bike with intact frame stamp - Fork seal in good condition without leaks The photos speak for themselves, all in all, a beautiful bike. More photos on request. Offers around: £1850 Bring a helmet and come and try her out in our 4 acre wood! - Genuine buyers only! Contact Wayne on 07396 049800 after 6pm weekdays or text or Email any time. Call anytime at weekends: wayne@wr2.co.uk Located in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire.

    1,850.00 GBP

  2. Great to hear! Maybe see you their soon!
  3. Hi Richard, As Oni has already said, the the tensioner block should be about 2cm off the swing arm. Have you changed now to a smaller rear sprocket and shortened the chain? Hope you're having fun! Cheers, Wayne.
  4. Should that be Dovecliffe not Westwood? Also, do you know what time the evening trials kick off? 6:30pm?
  5. You can download an parts manual from the GasGas website: http://www.gasgasmotos.es/us/manuals/models-1-2001.html but no owners manual I'm afraid. The brake discs (rotors) are floating so there should be some movement. I think the older bikes tend to have more float. There are washers that hold the disc on but allow float, as long as these aren't bent, the float should all be normal. Cheers Wayne.
  6. If you follow my procedure above together with warming up the airbox connection, i'm sure you'll find the carb will connect better. Also, make sure that the carb is fully pushed into the airbox even if this means you're having to pull it out of the engine side a little.
  7. Assuming its running a Delorto carb, there should be a rubber ring adapter on the carb-to-airbox side: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/gasgas-pro-dellorto-phbl26-adaptor.html Is that present? The carb is close to the engine casing but it shouldn't touch. Also, when refitting the carb and air box, i uses the following procedure: Slacken the engine/carb jubilee clip. Offer up the airbox to the carb and if need be, pull the carb out of the engine side to aid entry to the airbox (if necessary, warm up the airbox rubber with a heat gun to soften it) Once the carb is inserted properly into the airbox, push the airbox and carb back into the engine. Locate the 4 bolts holding on the seat/airbox. Re-align carb if the angle has moved. Tighten both jubilee clips Tighten the 4 airbox screws. Cheers, Wayne.
  8. Done also! I'd have to insure my ride on mower to cut my own grass...let alone, insure my bike to ride it in my own woodland! Glad I've just sold my lads off road buggy otherwise that would be another policy! Insurance companies rape us enough without another imposed set of policies to buy! Blame all the "no win, no fee" scams etc for all this utter nonsense! If you've ever claimed for anything under such circumstances, hang your head in shame!
  9. My headlights gone much the same way (only 2 LED lit). Did you manage a repair or a replacement?
  10. To help anyone else with similar symptoms, the final solution was a motor rebuild (new brushes). It would appear that the relay won't switch if the controller sees open circuit on the motor. The controller and electrics tested fine, so the whole issue was down to the motor. Many thanks to gwhy for all his help.
  11. I'm referred to the engine kicking the starter back and not back firing...I must admit I'm more gentle on kicking the Sherco over my Gassers, the kickstart seem so small and brittle...I'll give it my full weight from now on ;-) Not wanting to start a war but I've never had a GasGas kick back ever...over 20 different bikes and years!
  12. Hi All, I've had 5 sherco's (mainly 2005's and 2006's) over the last few years, and nearly everyone kicked back. I've tried retarding the timing, but it doesn't really improve. The only thing that fixed one bike was a new Stator. Only problem is, the bike I have now has had a stator recently but even retarding the ignition, it still kicksback. Is it just a quirk of Shercos or am I missing something. I would appear from reading posts on here that its really hit and miss, some bikes kickback, some bikes dont.. Any other pointers, let me know... Cheers, Wayne.
  13. Many thank for testing that....damn....I've now totally removed all the controller, the associated wiring and the motor and boxed it up to send to OSET. I'll still send it all to them I think as they offered to test it all. Wish I'd known that before stripping the wiring back...hope I can get it all back together! I'll keep you posted with what happens...I've learnt something anyway, no motor, no relay! There very little technical info online, so hopefully this will all be useful to someone else in the future. Thanks again for taking the time to test that and all the other help you've given!
  14. From bad to worse, now checked the motor (orange/blue wire to a battery) and nothing...even went as far as applying all 48v, nothing... Looks like the motor zapped and its taken the controller with it! Both motor and entire electrics on its way to OSET...I'll keep you posted.
  15. No power to the red/black wires of the speed pot, I can't easily check the throttle as the go into a 3 pin twist connector and I don't know which is red/black. When I powered the relay direct, the wheel wouldn't spin and the LED's on the throttle stay static (no visible drop in power). Controller looks buggered I suppose I'll have word with OSET today and see what they say...
  16. I wired the relay directly to the batteries, it switches fine so the controller just isn't supplying the switch voltage. I've checked the power to the controllers (yellow and grey wires) and power is getting to the controller. I've attached a photo of the wiring.
  17. That's what I did. Disconnected the thin wires and tested with the voltmeter - no voltage. I've not get tried applying 48v to the relay (I assume the relay is 48v and not 12v?). I've take a photo tonight...
  18. I disconnected the connector to the relay (the switch side) and put the volt meter to the end of that...
  19. Hi All, Hoping for a little wisdom. My lads 20" stopped running the other day after riding with the rear brake dragging a little. Anyway, the current situation is, the keyswitch powers on the throttle LED's showing full power but the relay doesn't click. I've checked the switch feed to the relay and I don't see any voltage. The switch feed seems to originate from the controller, so my only thought is that the controller is goosed. I've also tried another set of batteries just in case they are on low charge. Any other thoughts? Cheers, Wayne.
  20. Yes, that what happens when the head coked...My 300 racing is doing it now and will stop as soon as I've decoked it again. Read what I said above...have you decoked the head and piston?
  21. I've had this with a old 300 raga and my current 300 racing...I've been through numerous things, rejetting the carb, fuel, raising carb plunger, alsorts ... the cure? Decoke the head and piston! Enjoy riding without "donk" until it carbs up again! Im still not sure why but it seems to affect the 300 more than the other engine sizes...
  22. Hi All, I've been to see a 2006 250 this evening. It looked just the ticket, started well and ticked over just has you'd expect. Took it for a quick blast, but once i'd come back (2 mins), the engine was making a knocking noise just as it returns to idle. At high revs it sounds fine, just when it returns to idle does the knocking appear. Now, I'm thinking main bearing, what does anyone else think? So, the basics are, sound fine when cold, knocky when warm and dropping back to idle. Any wisdom guys? Cheers, Wayne.
  23. Cheers all for the replies. I stripped the motor down to find a massive amount of corrosion (shocking to see thr complete lack ofany kind of moisture protection on the motor). I cleaned off all the rust, eased the brushes (new ones needed really), put it all back togther and it roared into life! The bearings seem fine but the brushes will need replacing soon. Anyway, its saved
  24. Hi all, Got the oset out this morning but the motor is totally seized. When it got put away everything was working perfectly, so strange that its now seized. Even with molegrips on the sprocket it wont budge Im guessing it a new motor, but anyone had similar? Ive never had a trials bike cost me as much as this Oset! Cheers Wayne.
  25. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone can suggest ways to ease the kicking up of a 2009 290? My brother has a bad hip which is aggravated by kicking up the bike. The engine and compression is very tight and the short kick start doesn't help. He's thinking of selling up so I'm trying to find a way to keep him in the trials world! My obvious thoughts are head spacers to lower the compression, so what's the recommended methods to lower the compression on the 290? Also, anyone tried a different (longer) kick-start lever, maybe from a gasser? All suggestions welcome - don't want my Brother to walk away from trials after all these years! Cheers, Wayne.
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