baldilocks Posted June 23, 2007 Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 to the artist formerly known as beta rev 3! front brake problem, are still running original pads ? they are ok in the dry but dont work very well in the wet. I've found either goldfren or DP pads make the brake much better in all conditions. see you at reeth no doubt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 (edited) Thanks for that Baldilocks I will try those if no joy with the bleeding, brake is ok, just not as powerfull as it could be. Couple of my mates have these bikes and their fronts are good so might just need a bleed, and yes they are the original pads but might stick new Galfers in tomorrow before the Trial. Yer be nice to see you at the Reeth, we cant wait, think theres twelve of us in total going up, should be a great weekend counting the days already and I am doing a little training with the tinnies tonight at home Edited June 23, 2007 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 24, 2007 Report Share Posted June 24, 2007 Try getting a water bottle and stick in your trousers or whatever, do a few good 4th gear stops then pull out the water and douse it. Do it a couple times and ride off. It seem to be when thay start the annoying squealing they are at their best! If they ain't squealing, they ain't working! You got the "PoP", good going! They just keep getting bigger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted July 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Had the bike a few weeks now, been struggling with a few things mainly the very fluffy bottom end on low down throttle, and front end pushing. Everything else about the bike motor,suspension,clutch has been far better for me than the beta but these two problems above have been a major problem. I know of three other cabys all of which suffer with these problems to a greater or lesser degree, two of which will be by the looks of it soon to be second bikes in a dealers showroom. James who bought one the same day as me fitted his V Force reeds straight on from his 06 Caby, bike ran really bad even with rejetting, it runs alot better now with them off but still not perfect. One of the others is running way to rich low down but to lean mid range so changing the pilot wont help too much. Mine seemed to be the best of the bunch but did run too rich at the bottom so the initial pickup was slow and way to late, ok if you clutched quick with some revs but didnt like a small throttle input on say a camber climb. I changed from a 45 pilot to a 42 which cured the fluffy pickup but the bike felt weak/lean on all openings and lost its grunt, something i was willing to put up with as it cured the main problem. Thought i would give the Boyesens a go as they did wonders to my beta instantly and yet again they have done the business. The change wasnt as great as the beta but the Sherco ran better than the Beta to start with, the main thing it has done is to cure the fluffy pick up and allowed me to go back to the 45 pilot so the grunt is back with an instant pick up from low down revs. Bike sounds deep now, lots of air and fuel going through and feels mega strong all the way through. I have been changing the bars/forks/rear suspension settings constantly to try and get the bike to move about easily on the front end with no success, bike always felt way to low at the front so alot of weight is always pushing down and it was difficult to lift/pivot and hop about. First I dropped the forks through the yolks as much as possible but made things worse, next i softened the rear to try and lift the front,better but a little saggy on the rocks and hopping. Got rid of all the preload on the front which did make a big difference but forks didnt work as well. Last thing which has really sorted the problem out was fitting 20mm Fatbar risers, I rode a Caby last week and it instantly felt better than mine on the front end, found out it had 07 standard Sherco bars fitted which are alot higher than the Cabys low profile ones so ordered the risers the next day. Yesterday was the first day with the Boyesens and bar risers and they made a huge difference , front end will lift from no revs,front hopping/pivots are easy again and I feel comfy on the bike at last. If the bike hadnt been so good at so many other things I would have probably changed back to the Beta or dare i say it a Gasser, I hoped I could sort the front out with a little patience and I am pretty sure it has worked at last. The build quality seems alot better on the Sherco then I thought it would be and the maintenance side is as easy as the beta even with the linked shocker. Rear/front suspension is a lot better than my Rev3 and the motor much smoother. The bike will get away from you if your not ready for it but i am getting more used to hanging on as time goes by. Very small fuel tank is a down side but me old mate Ralphy got me Fuel bottle today for those awkward last 3 miles to the fuel stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Good info mate, forgot about those Caby bars being different, although I ain't seen one yet! That could throw you off a bit unless your last name is---? He is a fair sized fellow with long arms as I recall. Makes a difference! On the older bikes I pretty much liked the stock bars and if I replaced them, went to the 5.5 Renthals. If you look at the specs there is only 10mm difference between each of the bars between sizes, not 13mm as would be presumed. As I have had a bit of an adjustment problem even with the stock '07 bars, makes me wonder if some 10mm spacers might be in order, although I have pretty much adjusted by now! I have been happy with the Boyesens, good response and smooth power off the bottom. Even with the Keihin the power was smooth, but yet Bigger which is why I went back to the well tuned (if a bit lean) Dellorto, just a bit easier to manage, although I did not try the slow throttle with the Keihin, which as I sit and think, may be a good combination for things, given the big rev power of the thing! I did have to drop the main jet several sizes with the Boyesens to get the beast to rev out cleanly, not like I ever use 8-9000 rpm! You must realize the fact that to the PRO's, most all this is insignifigant. They just give it more blow, raise the thing higher and quicker, and flick it before you actually see what has happened! Been running the forks dropped about 8mm in the clamps with preload and damping all the way back to nothing. The shocker is running about 3 clicks back from all the way "in" to the right. Still pretty quick! And keeping the rear sag still to about 30mm, still lightly floats when unloaded and feel by hand. Seems soft to me though, but really works when you need to compress the rear to get some grip, it stays planted. Where ave you settled on the shocker? Wish more folks shared info on this forum, but it seems most are tight lipped of non caring on these matters, pity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 Mark, the bars are now pretty much the same height as Ralphs beta, maybe slightly under but feel right, must have been 20mm lower before or more considering the weight over the front would have pushed them down even more. Ive got 30mm of sag on the back and 3 clicks as you sugested earlier in this post (thanks) feels really nice especially over rocks and it eats steps, even the Legend said it feels like youve ridden over nothing. I noticed this alot at the Dave Roland (mainly streams) I was using way too much body movement where next to nothing was needed to soak up the smaller stuff. I have the forks at standard height about 8mm from top of yolks and the pre load bolt set level with the top of the fork, feels really good there and runs over most stuff without you knowing it. When I got rid of the preload the front felt very skippy but helped the riding postion so kept it there for a few days untill the bar height was confirmed as bad. I didnt re jet the K. but as you said maybe a smaller main would help rev out, not tried full whack yet with them in but I did notice it not reaching clearing point with a rev out, not a problem though as yet as the bottom end is so nice which is where most of my riding happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 I'll take that bait Copemech this is my first sherco, an 07 290, I got it in February and I did the SSDT on it, it never missed a beat and i'll be having another one as things stand. Things I have done to mine are fitted Ohlins shock, doesnt feel that much different but its more reliable and can be serviced. Never touched the forks and the shock sag is set the same as the original shock was. Fitted Renthal Fat bars as I always prefer renthal bars Found the power very smooth at first but once it was run in found the engine had a power band just above 1/4 throttle. This meant lots of wheelspin and lots of fives. I retarded ign timing and made the carb one notch richer on the needle, this helped a lot and the bike now grips really well. Downside is it doesnt have as much top end now so i'm going to try a keihin next. Is it possible to retard timing on the two map ignition ? do you know addict ? Fitted raptor pegs, dont like the standard ones as they wear out quite quickly and your feet fell like they will slip off in the mud. Sherco could improve the seal between the silencer and the air filter and my front mudgaurd now gets caught in the exhaust when the forks bottom out, thats my only complaints really. Fitted DP brake pads, brakes much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 (edited) Baldilocks, the 07 Sherco seems to run really well out of the box as you say, the caby is way too rich bottom end (initial throttle openings) but weakish after before main jet, makes changing the pilot abit of a problem to cure it but the Boyesens have. The 2 map switch to be honest is a pain in the a***, I have taped it so its on map 1 all the time, it had a habbit of knocking itself onto map 2 and runs abit nasty for most stuff on 2. I havent noticed any difference in map 1 and map 2 apart from the bike running ****e on 2, but havent found a massive hill climb yet to see if it really makes a difference there. Grip hasnt been a problem on the caby, got plenty of easy pull all the way through but will let go abit quick if you too quick on the throttle. I took my Raptors off my beta and went striaght on the caby, they are the b*****ks and well worth the money, rear shock is good so far but i have heard they sag out after alot of use so I might invest in a better one later in the year. I am really pleased with the bike now, its just taken alot longer to get to grips with it than i thought due to the front end problems. I hope to hang onto this one for a couple of years and recon it will be Sherco again after that. Do you mean the rubber seal between the air box and the silencer? I have sealed it on with black silicone, does a neat job and seals much better, also did the same in the large area of the subframe between the top of the air box and top of the muffler, just about stops any dirt/water from getting in from the mudguard. Post some pics of it on the weekend if you need. Somehow when you fill the gap with silicone it sticks to the subframe like **** on a blanket but wont stick to the muffler or air box? so taking both off isnt a problem and the new seal just stays in place. Edited July 31, 2007 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Baldi is a bit like me it seems! Even though the newer bikes do seem smoother than, say the '03-04 range, they do have a pretty good hit at around 1/4! The Boyesens seem to really help in smoothing out things, so seem recommendable, not costly! The base timing settings seem to have little effect with small changes and negative effects with large changes. The 5mm counter rotation from standard seems to be the happy medium on mine. Although I admit to preferring smooth side and keeping it in the lower revs still, by using 2nd gear and the clutch, if you need more, a slight slip and pop is all it takes! Once again , all pers pref! Still lots of grunt off the bottom! You see those Renthal Fatbars are speced the same as the 4.5 rise standard bars, which would make them abiut 10mm lower than the stockers for the '07 as i understand. That Caby bike is probably similar to the Renthals, which puts them a bit low for me. Did you compare them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Yes Copemech I compared them but only by sight I never measured them, they looked very similar. I 'm concerned that if I can't retard the timing on the 08 it will be too much, which is why I want to know if the stator can be adjusted. ? do you know ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Not a clue, Baldi! Not seen one yet, and could be a while as these things go. My guess would be that the base timing is still adjustable, the switch just changes the advance curve in the revs. Probably about time we got The Addict to pull his apart for inspection and cleaning so he can ck the torque on 'is nuts!(need pics) I should add that I have been impressed with the new plastic side covers ability to keep out the crud and water! I always used to have to drill a hole in the bottom of the cover so water could drain and let things vent to prevent corrosion. Not on the new ones! Seems nothing gets in, even with the pressure wash. Seen on the advert "Leonelli Programmable Ignition" -- Not sure WHO programs it if you just get a switch! Not sure I really want or need the ability to build a custom map for the thing anyway! Sort of like the suspension settings now, I have 150,000 setting variability! Big Deal! Hurts my B-R-A-N-E! Can I just have a few that work? I need a beer now, Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fracy Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Well boys, I'll chime in too, but, not sure if any info I have will help you. I now have a 05 1/2 3.2 4T. Yes, that is the much maligned 4T. As I understand it after a little investigation, it is one of the two minder bikes brought to the Duluth GP in the US in 05. The one that Paxau himself rode round on. I have had two full on rides on it now. I absolutely love the motor and that way it handles hills and slippery conditions, it is like cheating to me! I always keep my favorite bars and pegs no matter what bike I ride. I use Renthal Kuroyama bend. I also have a custom made pair of Hebo pegs that have been set back about 1/2 inch.(I beleive you can by similar ones from RYP in the states) I beleive that those alone are a significant improvement to any bike. Suspension is totally stock and perfect. I may get a Ohlins or one of those new TRP shocks purely for the fact they are rebuildable! Loving the bike even more than I thought I would and can't wait to see the new ones! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted August 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Copemech, workshops abit full at the moment to say the least but I will see if I can take the cover off/stator in a few days time for pics and clean. As I said the map switch is taped up now and doubt i will ever use stage 2. Dont get much grud into the airbox or filter, the seal around the muffler/air box is now good and silicone on top seems so cure most of the muck getting in. The Caby came with covers over the mudguard holes but i have added some stronger stuff for more support. Wosrt thing on the bike so far has been the decals, keeping them stuck on in place is a bit of a pain. I ve taken the centre fuel tank decal off as the petrol discoloured it very quickly and it was also starting to peel off. Rear shocker/linkage is spot on and so easy to service it gets done once a fornight, takes about 30 minutes and worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Can I fit a keihin with the standard inlet manifold rubber, thought I could warm it up to get it to stretch a little ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 3, 2007 Report Share Posted August 3, 2007 Yea, it'll fit, just needs a bit of love lube and persuasion! Getting a proper fit in the carb inlet is another story, but I suppose Sherco makes a part for it now! Fr the Cabby! The clamp is larger too i think! The K is a really tight fit on the '07, nother reason i decided against keeping it on. Surely they changed something on the tank for the Cabby to accomodate them! Or else someone(A) would have said by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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