Hey,

Was cleaning the bike earlier, and I have justed a new (to me) chain lube called PJ1 Black Label, It applys well...and attracts more dirt then little.

Anyway, trying to clean the chain but the oil WILL NOT move. Any suggestions as to getting it off? Its all over my chain, and the remaining oil (after application) has gone all down my rear (and front) sproket...which is all black with dirt. Also it has dripped onto my rear wheel rim...

Many thanks in Advance.

Diesel - put some in a drain tray, take your chain off, leave to soak then wire brush it.

buy some chain cleaner like the castrol one or soke it in diesel or petrol like dabber said i would not do the petrol one if you have an o ring chain though

Short of soaking it, you could also try the imfamous WD40 and a stiff brush. WD will cut chain lube like nothing. Best done off the bike either way, as it's a dirty job.

After a good cleaning, be sure to dry it well and relube with some variety of chain lube. I've found that most people use WAY too much lube when doing their chains. You need to lube the area where the pin goes into the link. A squirt of one side, then the other. Give the wheel a good spin and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Wiping the excess will not only make cleaning the next time much easier, but will protect your chain from picking up as much dirt (and acting as grinding compound)

Keep a nice stiff brush in your washup kit and scrub that chain and sprocket well with soapy water each time you wash the bike, and relube after it's clean.

I have a nifty way to clean a chain. I take the chain off then fix the links back together. I soak it in a bit of Coleman stove or lantern fuel. Diesel fuel, naphtha, or other solvent will work. Make sure to do it outside away from spark and flame. I then spray the stubborn spots with aerosol brake cleaner. Once the chain has soaked a bit I chuck up a metal or fiberglass rod about 36 inches in length in my battery operated drill. The rod has a few inches of air hose slipped over the end. I place the chain around the hose and use the drill to rotate the chain. I prop the end of the rod on something the appropriate height (work bench, patio chair arm, box) letting the end of the chain hang just into the fluid in the container of solvent. After a few minutes of rotating the chain in the solvent most of the dirt is lying in the bottom of the container. I change out the solvent a few times until the chain is clean. I just takes a few minutes and a few ounces of solvent. Once the chain is clean you can hang it up to dry or help it along with the drill. Once the chain is dry it is easy to rotate the chain and apply chain lube. May sound like a lot of trouble, but it is much easier than using a brush to scrub the chain and you never have to touch the solvent. So far I haven

Edited July 12, 200422 yr by dfwilson

I think a photo would help, yes.

I wash my chain in parrafin and then use ordinary four-stroke oil to lube it i think useing this type of oil is better because it does not get loads of dirt stuck to it like aerasol chain lube does. the four strike oil does not flick of that badly on a trials bike because it is never really ridden thatt fast.

Danny

p.s cheap four-stroke oil is cheaper than aerosol chan lube

What you need to do is find someone who has access to either a chemical cleaning bath or better still Aqurious industrial parts washing machine using Saxin as the cleaning agent. After washing, blow dry with an airline. Completely hassle free! The worst part is removing the chain. Now where can I get one of those? Funny old thing, there's one where I work.

I wash my chain in parrafin and then use ordinary four-stroke oil to lube it i think useing this type of oil is better because it does not get loads of dirt stuck to it like aerasol chain lube does. the four strike oil does not flick of that badly on a trials bike because it is never really ridden thatt fast.

Danny

p.s  cheap four-stroke oil is cheaper than aerosol chan lube 

Now it may be obvious to me so I shall say it anyway, four stroke oil is designed for engines and chain lube for chains, Both have different properties and if you have a sticky one swap it foe a chain wax perhaps. A product specifically designed with particular properties is really the best thing.

In the old days we used to boil the chain and that really was a chore but worked exceptionally well.

Maybe chain lube is better than 4-stroke oil if you're leaving the chain on the bike instead of taking it off for a thorough cleaning.

I don't know if it's available in the UK, but Simple Green is a great, cheap, biodegradeable cleaner that I use on my whole bike and, with a brush, it gets the chain clean right on the bike.

I know it seems like a little thing, and maybe I'll finally get myself motivated to contact some chain manufacturers, but what keeps me from regular chain removal, is that I don't like to reuse master link clips. If I could buy them by the handfull, I'd be more apt to remove the chain.

I take my link off every clean and have had only one master link failure back in 98 on a worn out chain on a sherpa in a road trial. Regardless of this I always carry a link as much because if the chain were to be derailed (never had this on 5 Shercos) an extra link is a good insurance, very small and left mounted on breather pipe on the bike.

Never bother with the link on the back but always do have the open part facing back on direction of travel.

Personally I would therefore conclude that its better to have a really clean chain properly lubed which (muddy southern trials requires) and this is best done off the bike.

Simple green is not available in the uk I don't think.

Simple green is not available in the uk I don't think.

Shame Nigel, as it really is great stuff.

HERE is a link to the stuff I've been using for the couple of years. Excellent product! Cheap, very effective and clean. I know it might not be convenient for those in the UK, but for those in N America it's worth a look. Also lots of excellent tech imformation on the same site regarding chains and chain maintenance.

Charlie, I agree with Nigel on the link thing...I remove mine fairly regular, or at least used to before changing lubes, and have never had a link failure.

Would home depot or Lowes stock it ?

I used to be able to buy it at Home Depot here, but they stopped stocking it. It is available at other building supply places here though. Might be worth a look.

Also works great on stain on riding gear...pour some right in the wash...smells good, so the wife doesn't get cranky and works pretty darn good on stains too

Edited June 13, 200422 yr by JTT

Based upon the advise ov one of the top national riders here in the US and due to the fact that I am lazy, I have used nothing but WD-40 to lube the stinking thing for the last couple of years. After pressure washing (cleaning) put bike on stand and soak it good and spray down your spoke nipples while you are there rotating the wheels (keeps them from rusting too). Wipe off excess and you are done.

As the WD tends to dry very thin, you may want to re apply during a muddy or really dusty trial, that is the only time I get a lot of (sling off). As I seldom need to adjust the chain, the wear due to the thinner lubricant must be minimal. After about 20 trials on the '03 Sherco it is curremtly on the #3 (of 9) setting properly adjusted.

I scoffed the idea too until I tried it. I do believe a good chain lasts longer! I read something on prep for the Scottish that said to get rid of the stock chain on a Gasser! A cheap chain will wear out quicker regardless, or just replace it more often.

Cheers!