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Contact 1995


goreboy
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Hi all, is it possible to download a service manual for a 1995 250 contact? cheers

I'm not aware of a hardcopy service manual (I'm assuming you mean a "shop manual" used by dealers and mechanics, and not an "owner's manual" used for basic maintenance and information) available for the 95'.

Jon

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yeah i mean workshop type manual, not the basic owners manual. Cheers

If you live in the U.S., you can get a DVD/VHS video shop manual from TrialsPartsUSA: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/ . Otherwise, I think they have a hardcopy parts manual (exploded views and parts numbers) you can get.

There is a downloadable 95' parts manual on the German Gas-Gas website: http://www.gasgas.de/ but it is virtually unreadable, unfortunately.

Jon

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Hi Goreboy,

Is there something specifif that you need to do to the motor?

Maybe we can help if you are unable to get a manual. The motor is fairly straight forward to strip, only need a flywheel puller and to be careful when undoing/tightening the clutch centre nut (do not wedge pliers or a screw driver in the clutch basket area).

Bye, PeterB.

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just need to know basic stuff to start with, like what oil to use for gearbox, and easy questions like i presume clutch is common oil with gearbox and not seperate wet clutch? in my old fantic i used to use ATF as gearbox/clutch oil is this suitable on gasgas?

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You are fine to use either a mineral oil, 10 weight, or an ATF rated to Dexron III, drain and re-fill with 700ml. Synthetic oil is not recommended. Clutch and gearbox share the same oil. If there is any milky looking substance draining out with the oil then it is likely the water pump seal has worn and is passing coolant into the gearbox under pressure. Good, well built motors these, not much to go wrong. Let me know if you need other info.

Bye, PeterB.

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  • 3 weeks later...
You are fine to use either a mineral oil, 10 weight, or an ATF rated to Dexron III, drain and re-fill with 700ml. Synthetic oil is not recommended. Clutch and gearbox share the same oil. If there is any milky looking substance draining out with the oil then it is likely the water pump seal has worn and is passing coolant into the gearbox under pressure. Good, well built motors these, not much to go wrong. Let me know if you need other info.

Bye, PeterB.

think my water pump seal has gone, was out on it today stopped for a well earned break lol when i noticed the engine was steaming so hot it burnt through my clutch pipe (so no cluctch now). Got the bike home and there seems to be no water in it, but a milky layer on the water cap. By passed the fan with a wire and seems to struggle to first start spinning.

Had the bike serviced lateley and he advised the pump seal may need replacing soon, How hard of a job is it? were do i start lol or and how do i change the oil and check i havent done anymore damage?

sorry for the thread High jack, just dont know what to do with it.

its a contact 250 1995

cheers Jay

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Happy New Year Jay,

Definately sounds like the seal at least needs replacing.

If your motor has overheated, like it really seems it has done, then you should at least replace the cylinder head O ring seals as these would become hard and tend to leak.

The best way to fix the seal is to replace both the seal and the shaft as the shaft tends to groove out, depending on what previous owners may or may not have done, you might have an original sized shaft with 15mm diameter seal, or a 12mm diameter seal or even a later (and best option) 10mm dia seal. The replacement seal kit (MT280010106) has all the parts you need, 10mm shaft and seal with circlip and spacer. You might need new bearings too, 6000 C3 one is a type Z, that has a single metal seal on the bearing. Fit this bearing in toward the clutch outer side with the integral seal outwards.

Anyway, to get there, remove the water pump cover and carefully unscrew the impellor, it is a right hand thread and shouldn't be too tight, then the clutch case. Remove the plastic gear and check for any damage to teeth, check how it comes off as there is a lip on one side of the gear. Remove the cirlip from the housing, then tap out the shaft toward the front of the cover. Carefully knock out the bearings (two) toward the inside of the cover or use a bearing extractor/slide hammer unit, then carefully tap out the seal from the inside of the cover, do not score the housing, do not try to remove the seal from the front of the housing.

The 10mm shaft has an extra circlip to pevent the shaft from sliding through to the inside of the case.

Parts on the shaft from outside to in go like this:

Impellor, seal, circlip, 6000 Z C3 bearing, spacer, bearing, big circlip, plastic gear circlip.

Be very careful when fitting the clutch cover back on, you need to "feel" the plastic gear locate back into mesh before pressing the case fully down.

If you are changing gearbox oil, I use either a 10 weight mineral or an ATF rated to Dexron III, 700ml. Do not use synthetic oil.

What part of the world are you in?

Good luck, PeterB.

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The 1995 engine had issues with the main bearings turning in the cases, this was due to the cases being heated by the coolant. The 1996 engine had the water jacket blanked off in this area.

Lots of bikes were repaired under warranty at the time with exchange crankcases so unlikely to affect your machine by now.

Otherwise a good bike! just make sure the sump guard bolts are always tight, riding with them loose will crack the frame.

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Happy New Year Jay,

Definately sounds like the seal at least needs replacing.

If your motor has overheated, like it really seems it has done, then you should at least replace the cylinder head O ring seals as these would become hard and tend to leak.

The best way to fix the seal is to replace both the seal and the shaft as the shaft tends to groove out, depending on what previous owners may or may not have done, you might have an original sized shaft with 15mm diameter seal, or a 12mm diameter seal or even a later (and best option) 10mm dia seal. The replacement seal kit (MT280010106) has all the parts you need, 10mm shaft and seal with circlip and spacer. You might need new bearings too, 6000 C3 one is a type Z, that has a single metal seal on the bearing. Fit this bearing in toward the clutch outer side with the integral seal outwards.

Anyway, to get there, remove the water pump cover and carefully unscrew the impellor, it is a right hand thread and shouldn't be too tight, then the clutch case. Remove the plastic gear and check for any damage to teeth, check how it comes off as there is a lip on one side of the gear. Remove the cirlip from the housing, then tap out the shaft toward the front of the cover. Carefully knock out the bearings (two) toward the inside of the cover or use a bearing extractor/slide hammer unit, then carefully tap out the seal from the inside of the cover, do not score the housing, do not try to remove the seal from the front of the housing.

The 10mm shaft has an extra circlip to pevent the shaft from sliding through to the inside of the case.

Parts on the shaft from outside to in go like this:

Impellor, seal, circlip, 6000 Z C3 bearing, spacer, bearing, big circlip, plastic gear circlip.

Be very careful when fitting the clutch cover back on, you need to "feel" the plastic gear locate back into mesh before pressing the case fully down.

If you are changing gearbox oil, I use either a 10 weight mineral or an ATF rated to Dexron III, 700ml. Do not use synthetic oil.

What part of the world are you in?

Good luck, PeterB.

Hi peterb

Dont suppose you know were I could pick a pump seal kit up from in the north-east do you?

can you buy replacement pipes for the clutch and take my fitting off the knackered one or do you have to order a new complete one from Gas Gas?

cheers Jay

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