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Frame Changes On A Tlr 250


bobtlr
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Yes a guy in my local club recently modded the steering head angle on his TLR250 and reckons it is better. Don't know the angle he aimed for but you may get the answer from him on this forum or if you post ont the trials.com.au twinshock forum. I know he cut and rewelded the frame at the steering head.

If you do similar you will be reducing the wheelbase and may get more grip as a result.

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I had 2 minutes on a modified 200 last week and it did not feel much different to my standard 250. I do run a modified swing arm with the shock mounts moved to accept 340mm units. If you keep them set fairly stiff this jacks up the back end and has the same effect as the head angle mod. I was unaware that lack of grip was a problem.

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Hi

I have changed the head angle on three frames now, even got a jig to help do the job.

but not sure its for everyone,It seems to suit riders that still ride modern bikes, or who have just

changed from modern to twinshock.

I know one rider that did not get on with it ,

and another that thinks its the Dogs B____cks. (but he rides a 4rt as well)

So as with moving the footrests,its all a personal preferance.

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I had 2 minutes on a modified 200 last week and it did not feel much different to my standard 250. I do run a modified swing arm with the shock mounts moved to accept 340mm units. If you keep them set fairly stiff this jacks up the back end and has the same effect as the head angle mod. I was unaware that lack of grip was a problem.

I have a 200 that has longer shocks which gives the same effect to steering angle also lowered pegs. I bought it like it and it steers really well (pity I don't ride really well) I thought the 250 needs a longer s. arm to stop the front end lifting ?? You can buy a peg lowering kit that is a bolt on set up, sensibly priced. A mate of Woodys sells them. :huh: There is an in depth look at modifying 200/250s on Classictrials web site.

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yep,

that seems to be the case on the 250 on the 200 they put the footrests backwards

i have tried some things with the bars but no cure the front just buldozers straight on, i hop the bike a lot now in tight corners but most people don't like it (even got some 5's for it)

regards bob

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I understand footpegs are moved forward on TLRs, to counter the light front.

I would advise caution with this statement !

Just because you read it on a web site ,does not necesarily make it correct ,

does the person that wrote it realy know ?

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I believe it is to stop the front end lifting as well as the swing arm mod. Another non related one to soften the power is to fit 3 base gaskets to lower compression. I have ridden a mates with the gasket mod and it really was soft compared to standard.

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This sort of thing is subjective really and comes down to personal choice. I've ridden a TLR250 before and after a steering mod. I never thought the steering had a problem in standard configuration so I wouldn't have bothered altering it. Having tried it afterwards I couldn't tell any difference so for me there was no improvement

I've not noticed that the steering pushes other than when I was trying to clutch it around a turn. That I felt was due to the awful clutch action which grabs and judders when you're trying to slip it and as a consequence, instead of engaging smoothly, lurches in which would push the front instead of easing it round the turn. My 4RT was exactly the same. If I rode the bike on the throttle around turns it never pushed. Find a clutch that doesn't grab and lurch and you may find it doesn't push out in turns any more.

The light front end is a TLR trait and I don't think it will go away with repositioning of the footrests in any direction. I'd say it is more to do with the weight bias of the bike and the fact that the motor pulls very strongly off idle, even if the power is softened on the cam timing or compression. I used one in a 2 day trial recently and found that if you back off the power up hill and then bring it back in, the front end wants to climb and you really have to get your weight positioning right to keep it from rising without losing grip as well. Once grip is lost, either on muddy or loose shale/rocky climbs, it's very difficult to recover and get it going again. I found riding faster than I normally do lessened the chances of breaking grip and lifting the front.

As far as altering the head angle goes, you could do what someone else has suggested and lengthen the shocks to quicken the steering. If you have Falcons, there are different length mounting eyes available. Easier than cutting frames. As regards footrest position, persoanlly I wouldn;t want to move them forward. I'd lower them definitley because I'm tall and lower them on all my bikes. Not sure I'd bother going back with them though, but again it's personal.

Lengthening the swingarm theoretically improves grip, again it's subjective and you don't really want to go beyong 53 inches wheelbase but so can properly working shocks and shock positioning improve grip. Can't see that shortening it will do the same, should in theory make it worse and also give the front an even bigger tendency to climb around the back wheel due to the shorter wheelbase.

If you're using it in classic events I can't see that there are going to be any turns that are to tght for a TLR. I rode a type 49 Bultaco in a few championship rounds last year and there was nothing too tight for that - and if you think that a Honda needs a steering tuck you need to try one of those first.... If you're stopping and hopping in classic events you are going to get fived and rightly so - I just wish others that do it got them too

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Forgot to mention the clutch thing. A CR80 MX clutch is the way to go on a 250 wholesale. There may be something better now ?? Woody I sold a Tlr 250 a couple of wks ago req rebuild with motor in bits to someone that knows you, helps set out Miller rounds I think he said. :huh:

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A lot of standard TLR's seem to 'sag' a bit at the back end. The reason I like the shorter shock mod is that it gives a bit quicker rebound, saves a little weight and is quite easy to complete although if you have a good set of the original Showa's, they do take some beating.

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