Hi all. I have a '99 txt 200 and a friend has a 321 of the same year. Currently I am using putoline light gear oil but we can get hold of ATF easily and cheap so was thinking of switching to this. I have done a search put keep finding conflicting information on weather it's best to use ATF. If anyone can advise on the best oil to use it would be appreciated, and if it is ATF is dextron || or dextron ||| the one to go for. Thanks for any Help.

atf in a pre pro clutch is a no no,it affects the bonding of the clutch plates and the material parts company with the steel backing.Use gear oil or 10w30 engine oil

Its synthetic oil that is the no no, and does what you say above,

The recommendations can be read on trialspartsusa web site

Thanks guys. I'll just stick to the putoline i think,if its not broken and all that stuff. Lol.

atf in a pre pro clutch is a no no,it affects the bonding of the clutch plates and the material parts company with the steel backing.Use gear oil or 10w30 engine oil

Make sure it's suited for wet clutches.

Since my last post, I have found the this clip in the Tech Bulletin; so I've Cut and pasted it below.

Transmission oil:

Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III

Alternatives:

NOTE: Gas Gas Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time.

Oil type warning:

DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil

Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at Gas Gas Spain.

Edited February 3, 201313 yr by richt

I spoke to gas gas uk and they said to use putoline light gear oil.

Most of the riders I know who have the pre "Pro" bikes use ATF. I run ATF in my '94 and it works great. It has not caused any swelling or de-bonding of the clutch material from the plates.

I did have a problem when I bought the bike with the clutch material de-bonding but that was because the water pump seal had failed and the ATF had been contaminated with anti-freeze.

I still use ATF and will continue to. Nice thing is it is cheap and readily available so I can change it frequently.

Thanks for all the posts gents

I don't know about older bikes but my dealer told me to use Type F ATF only in my '12 Raga. He's been doing this for many years and has rebuilt a lot of transmissions so I think I'll trust him.

Btw how fragile are these transmissions? I try to remember to use the clutch when I shift and do usually, but I'm used to shifting w/o one on dirtbikes. If you are going very slow and close the throttle it clicks right into gear with no objection without.

I don't know about older bikes but my dealer told me to use Type F ATF only in my '12 Raga. He's been doing this for many years and has rebuilt a lot of transmissions so I think I'll trust him.

Btw how fragile are these transmissions? I try to remember to use the clutch when I shift and do usually, but I'm used to shifting w/o one on dirtbikes. If you are going very slow and close the throttle it clicks right into gear with no objection without.

I would always use the clutch when shifting. The design of the Trials transmission/shifting mechanism is quite different from your other dirtbike. For one thing, your other dirtbike does not have aluminum shift forks.

Jon

Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III

Alternatives:

NOTE: Gas Gas Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time.

Oil type warning:

DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil

Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at Gas Gas Spain.

This info put out by the same people that recomended Mobile One for years and the Blue GM Auto Trac for the Pro`s.

I don't know about older bikes but my dealer told me to use Type F ATF only in my '12 Raga. He's been doing this for many years and has rebuilt a lot of transmissions so I think I'll trust him.

Btw how fragile are these transmissions? I try to remember to use the clutch when I shift and do usually, but I'm used to shifting w/o one on dirtbikes. If you are going very slow and close the throttle it clicks right into gear with no objection without.

Jon is right to use the clutch when shifting. By the way the Raga also uses an aluminum shift drum.

Edited February 4, 201313 yr by lineaway

Will do. Thanks.

[This info put out by the same people that recomended Mobile One for years and the Blue GM Auto Trac for the Pro`s.]

Ah this must ave been before my time, only started doing trials about 4 years ago.

I use ATF and I'm happy with it