June 3, 201313 yr Author Clarky The bike is now changed from the original specs that Beta put out. So you are saying that a standard 300cc bike with standard timing from the factory kicks back and everybody should now change their timing????? Not convinced that changing the timing solved the original problem only camouflaged it! But hey if that works for you then go for it! Cheers I never said that, YOU just did! Im only talking about my Beta, All Im saying it has fixed my bike and that is why I came on the forum to see if I could fix it, Which I have Didn't come on here for a bitch fight! Happy its fixed, Full Stop Edited June 3, 201313 yr by clarky
June 3, 201313 yr Timing on these bikes is all about what's right for you. Retarded timing brings easier starting and softer power...if that's your cuppa. If you want big zing at high revs, you advance and deal with more difficult starting. The factory setting isn't "right"...it's probably more like an average. Glad you got it sorted.
June 3, 201313 yr Clarky If your bike is the way you like it then good for you, problem over with, post over with. In reality there was nothing to fix just to modify the FIX part was your words. Any way, glad you got it sorted out. Where are you fae?
June 3, 201313 yr Author Clarky If your bike is the way you like it then good for you, problem over with, post over with. In reality there was nothing to fix just to modify the FIX part was your words. Any way, glad you got it sorted out. Where are you fae? Ok then You Win! But I also think I win because my beta is now modify !!!, not fixed so it don't kick back any more. Cheers
June 4, 201313 yr Clarky Its not about winning! There is no competition! You got what you wanted from this forum and that is the point. What I was concerned about was guys buying big bore 300cc not using correct starting techniques (not saying you used poor form to start it), the bike kicks back and they say the bike is broke, needs fixing, we run around changing CDI boxes etc when in fact the potential to kick is part of the course for a big bore bike. If we just wanted to smooth the big bore bike out by modifying the timing and at the same time lower the potential of a kick back then we would have taken a quicker succinct path to help you with the kick back issue. No harm, no foul. Now go kick some butt on that smoothed out 300cc PS: To smooth it out even more buy a S3 flywheel weight. I run one my 300cc and I can not imagine a 300 cc Beta without one as it really makes a difference! Edited June 4, 201313 yr by billyt
June 4, 201313 yr Hey that's cool that it's a cheep fix and only 1.5mm Makes me think, if you were very careful installing the flywheel I bet there is 1.5mm of radial play in the flywheel that far from center Maybe it was all the way fwd on the key and timing could have been out that much from new To do it again maybe a guy could load the flywheel all the way back with a flywheel holder as you are sliding it up the taper and torque it down
June 4, 201313 yr Clarky Glad its fixed, modified, ok now, kept us all amused for a week. Just a question, you said that it never used to kick back, so do you think the timing had moved to make this problem happen, or something else. I am with Billy T in that I would want to know what had changed (does it need a de-coke for instance) to make a problem arise. TLTEL
June 5, 201313 yr Good on you then Clarky! I would be intrested to see your findings on just how much adjustment range is available ont the Beta, and indeed the type of ignition. Yes, factory timing is a tradeoff. I have generally found it requires a 2mm or so change to find a noticable difference in performance when trying to tame a bike, yet the 1.5mm may be just enough to offset a kickback, and with that should also come a proportional resistance to stalling at low revs. I have never felt bad about a little performance loss on a big bore bike, as for me they are excess to begin with. Saves my arm sockets once past half throttle!
June 5, 201313 yr Author Hi I just don't know why it has only been the last 6months it has started to kick back, never did it from new in 2011 , plate looked good and hadn't changed at all, I went 1.5mm and has been sweet since, I rode a event on the weekend and I didn't notice any power difference on the bigger steps with the 1.5mm change, maybe a bit smoother of the bottom but bugger all, So sorry ??????? can't give you any more than that as I just don't know, all I know is it has stopped kicking back since I went 1.5mm and im happy for that. Cheers
June 7, 201313 yr Well done , glad to see you pushed on to a solution rather than throwing money at it and second guessing . Best regards Shy t .
June 24, 201313 yr My Rev3 270 did this to me once. I'm now much better at kicking it. I'm not the biggest of lads so have to almost jump to get my left foot high enough and use my body weight to provide the required force right down through the swing of the kickstart. The other thing that I do now is put the bike in 2nd gear and gently pull it backwards before I try starting it. This pulls the piston off've the compression stroke and to the top of the cylinder after TDC ready to come down. A good kick and maximising the momentum in the crank/flywheel/piston helps immensly.
June 28, 201313 yr Actually my Techno does it worse than my Evo I don't start it without boots, and the kick lever sucks too
July 10, 201313 yr What I was concerned about was guys buying big bore 300cc not using correct starting techniques (not saying you used poor form to start it), the bike kicks back and they say the bike is broke, needs fixing, we run around changing CDI boxes etc when in fact the potential to kick is part of the course for a big bore bike. What a load of bollocks. Every bike is different and some need a tweak ......
July 11, 201313 yr Jesus this was painful to read. Have we established who knows more yet?! Glad your bikes sorted dude! Kept me entertained on my night shift this thread!
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