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Help Please! ... Evo 2011


sammyj
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Hi All,

I am fairly new to trials and have just bought (on Thurs) a beta evo 250 20011.

Anyway, I took it for a play first thing Sat, after about an hour I went to stop and the kill switch did not work ... it has two buttons at the front (red & black) and I understand the red is the kill switch. While I was fiddling with it trying to get it to stop, the bike started revving out of control ... I though she was going to blow up, so I pulled off plug cap (nothing) then let the clutch out and it stalled after 30 yrds.

After about an hour I started it again and it was fine ... apart from the kill switch, it still does not work.

So, my questions are what the hell happened? Could the two be linked?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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I've the same bike and yes my kill switch is not great there's a nak to making it work but in next few weeks I plan to strip and clean it to see if that's the issue if that doesn't cure it il fit a trusty old fashioned type like my ty250 at least they work. As for the high revving issue I'm not able to help there all I do know is that after having gasgas250's for last 5 years the beta isn't all it's cracked up to be I prefer the gasgas for better brakes and engine power delivery

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It really bugs me when I hear statements like, the " ORIGINAL KILL SWITCH IS VERY POOR" The most important safety feature on the bike and Beta can't be bothered to fit one that functions properly. You don't really get much for your money when you buy a trials bike compared to a road bike the manufacturers could do better.

(not just Beta)

TLTEL

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Even better way to stop a revving engine is to put a gloved hand over the exhaust and smother it until it stops

Be careful guys as this does not work on my 2011 gasgas or any other gas gas with the plastic section at the rear of the pipe due to the way it is fixed together. When you place your hand over the end it just exhausts at the joint between the plastic section and the mid box. You have been warned.

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Get a good two wire kill switch. Lanyard or pushbutton. Make sure the ground connection is properly tied to a hard point on the frame not through the triple clamps or bars.

Yeah I had the seals in the exhaust of a Rev3 blown out by a "friend" jokingly putting a hand over the exhaust. Still better than pulling a plug wire. I've also tried killing a WFO engine by pulling the plug wire. NOT DOING THAT AGAIN!!! Not keen on that feeling of waiting for my heart to restart.

Funny story, my nephew wrote a piece for school on his experience doing the same. He didn't want to show me because it was on my bike but when I read it, it was brilliant. The spark burned through his leather riding glove and the leather knee pad on his pants where they were touching the frame. His friend told him he had never heard anyone scream that loud but Greg said he couldn't hear himself scream because of the buzzing in his head from the current.

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Be careful guys as this does not work on my 2011 gasgas or any other gas gas with the plastic section at the rear of the pipe due to the way it is fixed together. When you place your hand over the end it just exhausts at the joint between the plastic section and the mid box. You have been warned.

Wrong. It works very well. No warning needed thanks

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opening the choke when its at full throttle is unlikely to stop the engine, may make things worse (on a red hot engine) as the engine can cope with the extra fuel delivery...

the throttle spring on a Keihin carb is very light and its easy to yank the cable to wide open throttle and she will run away

I'd still get that plug lead off, and crimp the fuel line (if possible) and block the exhaust...rather be replacing rubber exhaust seals than the hardened cylinder bore and rings

I did hear someone say one can flip the bike over and this prevents the fuel being delivered but its dangerous to go touching wheels when the engine at full rpm...accidentally knock the gearshift and you could end up in hospital

either way, its a nerve wracking situation to be in....

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