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Tubeless Rims.

Featured Replies

thinking of putting tubeless rims on a new bantam build and would be pleased to hear any comments or suggestions good or bad thanks.

well, as 90% of tyres seem to be tubless nowadays, and saves f*cking about with security bolts....I would say go for it.....others will say you won't get a ride in the Scottish!!!!!!!!!

well, as 90% of tyres seem to be tubless nowadays, and saves f*cking about with security bolts....I would say go for it.....others will say you won't get a ride in the Scottish!!!!!!!!!

Where in the regs does it say that ?

  • Author

update -it would just be on the rear as security bolts seem to be a pain.

No experience of tubeless, but they are not without problems either if you read the comments posted on here. Constantly leaking, sudden flats, rimtapes not seating, bead breaking etc

Edited by b40rt

As previously mentioned the problem is availability of tubed tyres. Only decent one is IRC which is widely available but you have some kind of aversion to security bolts so ruling out using a tube. Tubeless tyres and rims are ok for Scotland as long as a tube is fitted but sounds like you are not interested in riding the two day anyway so not a problem to you but worth checking with the clubs you intend riding with first re eligibility but you have probably done that already before building the bike. Some club's allow full Tubeless some don't. Either way you are stuck with security bolts in the front unless you want constant punctures or run tyre pressure so high the bike won't steer. Your choice. Me I just use tubes and security bolts no big deal.

Where in the regs does it say that ?

It says you can't run it tubeless, you have to have a tube inside it. So you have to consider that if you're thinking of fitting a tubeless rear rim and are thinking of entering the trial.

This presents a real problem if you have a puncture as you are going to have a real problem getting the tube out as you have to break the bead of a tubeless tyre to get at it. That is very very difficult to do without a bead breaker or something else to hand to do the job. Unlikely during a trial so it could end your day.

It's one of the daftest and ill thought out rules - actually acheives nothing.

Fair point Woody, problem is, when it becomes uneconomic to produce tube tyres I will have to spend about £200 a wheel to convert them to tubless. I see few positives, and plenty of negatives.

No experience of tubeless, but they are not without problems either if you read the comments posted on here. Constantly leaking, sudden flats, rimtapes not seating, bead breaking etc

This is true of the style of rims that require the rim tape type seal, but a lot of the newer bikes are now running the wheels that the spokes do not penetrate the rim. This all but guarantees no leaks. A puncture is of course still possible, however would allow for a tubeless plug type repair (under the right puncture type of course).

My Scorpa has the rim tape type seal, I was having heaps of issues trying to seal it. I solved the problem with sikoflex! Every spoke sealed, a bead of sealant either side under the rim tape seal and then a bead of sealant over the top of the seal. Perfect! :thumbup:

  • Author

thanks for comments will probably stick with tubed tyres after the replies. has anyone used the talon stainless security bolts?.

thanks for comments will probably stick with tubed tyres after the replies. has anyone used the talon stainless security bolts?.

Yes they work well. So well I only use one of them on the rear and have never had a problem with the tyre moving. A warning though - they are a bit blunt ended which creates recesses at the ends of the clamp plate that can cause a tube to fail if you use too much pressure seating the tyre.

I to use talon clamps, more expensive initially, but seem to last a lot longer.

As above, only one on rear of my swm, with no more movement than normal. Irc sidewalls are so flexible not really a problem fitting it in.

Incidentally, I have a tubless irc on an akront rim with no issues of it dropping into well at 5 psi.

Fair point Woody, problem is, when it becomes uneconomic to produce tube tyres I will have to spend about £200 a wheel to convert them to tubless. I see few positives, and plenty of negatives.

If you have Akront rims on your bikes (like the SWM has) you'd be ok as at normal trials pressure the tubeless tyres sit ok on Akront tubed rims using a tube. No need to change to a tubeless rim to use the tyre.

The DID and Takasago rims can be a problem though and I've never been able to run a tubeless tyre on them, they drop into the rim at anything less than 10psi

Not sure about other makes as I've never had a bike with anything else.

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