cactusjack

Promoting the brand, specifically the Freeride series of bikes.

Ride fitness is the biggest stopper of any rider Fatty, keep at it and the pain will ease eventually. It is a very clean and good looking Techno too, good pick up mate.

It's funny how there is such different versions of our language every where you go. So interesting. I remember being in Canada in 2006 and they used to get stuck into us Aussies for saying 'I reckon ........' It is so commonly used here you don't blink an eyelid, but there, we got laughed at.

Good answer thats_a_five. You are also correct in that it is pinging, not pinking! Never heard it called pinking until I got onto this forum.

The 4t bikes, although they have higher compression, have an automatic decomp valve, which opens an exhaust valve to lower compression slightly at the top of the compression stroke. this makes kicking them over much easier, and in most cases easier than a 2t.

Adjustment may be the issue too. If the brakes are binding just a little they will overheat and bind fairly quickly even in light usage. I would check all adjustments. On the AJP master you need to make sure there is a small amount of free play in the lever before it engages. The adjuster actuating the piston should not be in contact with the piston before you depress it. The other adjuster controls the distance the lever throws from the bar. This also needs to have clearance to allow for free play. Failing this, pull it apart again.

He spells like he is typing a text message and of the younger generation!

Well done. A good little video.

I look forward to seeing some real time video's of the bike in action. A truly unique project that is fantastic to see from a passionate trials person. Hope it all goes well for them. Hopefully they get updated into this thread.

That black coating on the forks is a nitride coating designed to reduce stiction of the fork seals. I would be very hesitant filling it with a standard epoxy as this may effect the seals as much as a scratch. I would get a very fine 1500-2000 grit wet and dry and very lightly polish back the sharp edges on the scratch, avoiding as much area outside the scratch as is humanly possible. I would then leave it at that.

It may have blown a crank seal too, I would be checking the gear oil level immediately. If all is ok in the gearbox then I would run with what has already been said.

A short video from Sunday morning at the trials club. This was the first ride on the Gasser and I had a ball out on it. The volume is very low, as I didn't want the music to overpower the sound of the bike, but the microphone struggled to pick up the bike for most of it! Enjoy.

Took it out for it's first proper trials ride today, and it is a ripper. I have basically sorted the starting issues, just a bit of technique more than anything. A little richer on the mixture screw and bump the idle up a little. No throttle on cold start and a bit of throttle on hot start and it will start within a couple of kicks. As for riding it I will be keeping it without doubt. It is great to ride and improved my riding from the Scorpa almost straight away. Love it!!!

Always good to have someone there to push you along Dylan. I have just got a Gas Gas 300 Pro, so am looking forward to my first outing on that this weekend. I wish I had somewhere very local to practice. I have to drive an hour to get to my practice grounds and they are only open on Sundays. Makes it hard I must say. Keep updating mate, well done.

Yep, day 2 always hurts more than day one!!! Great that you enjoyed this addictive sport and have found a few guys to be able to ride around with. Well done.

The needle on the carby generally has control of fuel delivery from around 1/4 opening through to 3/4 opening. There is overlap of course from the other circuits but this is where the needle is doing most of the work. Any clip adjustments will take affect though this range, as the needle itself is still traveling through the stroke of the needle jet. As the needle rises it's the last 3mm of the needle where I would expect the main jet start to really cancel out the needle.

They do have the oil quantity stamped there as lineaway said, pretty sure it'll say 700cm2, as that's what mine says. This means put 700ml in and forget about the level check bolt.

I also wander if the starting issues are related to the carby being the 250 carby. It would appear as though they used this carby on the earlier model 280's and 300's but I will still see if I can tune it out rather than purchasing the 300 vhst carby.

Finished putting her together today and kicked her in the guts. She takes some starting, doesn't fire as easy as I would like, but I am sure I can tune this into her. Runs like a dream though and has some serious hoof. A helluva lot more every where than the little Scorpa! (as expected) I am still having an issue with the kicker, but it is due to me improvising with the outer circlip which is allowing a little too much end float of the shaft. It means that when it moves outwards, the shaft doesn't allow the half moon gear to return to it's natural position. Oh well, the motor is quiet and potent and the bikes rides fantastically. I can't wait to fix these little niggles and get the thing down to the trials club.

Very impressive, and very lucky to have the opportunity to be able to get the tour of the factory like that. Thanks for posting!

I was sent that picture from the Gas Gas importer also. It went together well and works like a dream. It would appear we are both right. I do remember now on assembly the gear rotated clockwise though. Although, the two pictures are only one tooth out from each other. My spring was a little worn I guess and didn't line up exactly the same as either picture, so mine actually timed somewhere in between the two, but worked perfectly. I don't think either are wrong. This wasn't meant to be a s h i t flinging match, just some useful information for others to stop them going through the same headache as I did.

There is a measurement for the clutch fingers, but I am unsure of what it is. It should be in here somewhere: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/ Follow the links to their tech pages and you should be able to find it. I expect everything will be fine if you can see no visible damage and all fingers seem to line up well and are even. As for your coolant leak, I would be tentative about it, however if the gearbox does milky up then it is an easy fix that can be done fairly quickly without pulling the clutch cover again. The timing of the water pump is very important. If you do not ensure the cutout in the end of the crank and the roll pin for the water pump drive are aligned you will damage things very quickly. I removed the water pump before installing the clutch cover. Good luck with it all.

So here is a little tip for those that don't know on how the Kickstart 1/4 gear on the TXT Pro models needs to be timed in relation to the spring. I spent 2 frustrating hours installing the shaft wrong until I figured out what I had done. Andy, may you consider this to be a sticky? The following photo's show the timing for the gear in relation to the spring. Once I had sorted the timing, the kickstart went in very easily. This video explains the action required to mount the kickstarter: http://youtu.be/A80n7zq80n8?t=1m55s

I have figured it out guys. I had the timing wrong in relation to the return spring and gear. It is all back together now and working well. I now just have to fill coolant, gear oil, clean carby, set bowl level, fit carby and tank and fire her up. Let's hope she is a keeper.

What arnoux said. I have just learned the same lesson, although I never started the bike thankfully. I heard things not sound right on assembly, but found the kickstart wasn't engaging correctly, so I removed the lot again. I then watched Jim Snell's videos and laid the bike on it's side before reassembly. Short answer, lay bike on side, remove and reinstall.