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Evo 250 2010 Kick Start + Other Beginner Issues

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I've just got my first trials bike which is a Evo 250 2 stroke 2010 and after having it for about 3 weeks I'm coming across some problems:

1. the kick start lever starts to far forward so to start the bike (when it does start) you have to lean forward so you can get your leg behind it or use your hand to move it.

2. One you have kicked kicked it it does not line up with the dint in the exhaust like it is meant to... any suggestions?

3. I've been having problems starting it. When I first got the bike it started easy first time for the first week or so. I have been doing relatively simple training drills such as trying to do a figure of 8 around 2 bricks, the occasional wheelie, etc. It not wont start. Last night i checked that the fuel lines where clear, new spark plug and the air filter had a clean.

4. there is a metalic grey oil deposit that has started to build up around where the exhaust exits. What is this and is it a major issue?

5. The rear mud guard is held on with cable ties. I was told y the seller that this is to avoid snapping the mud guard if you flip the bike - is this bull sh*t?

As I mentioned I'm a beginner when it comes to trials especially the maintenance side of things so any help (preferably simple!) would be much appreciated. I'm in the North Yorkshire Area, UK so I'll be getting to a trial once I can trust the machine.

Thanks

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I think you need to add pictures, im in wakefield if you can get down there, depending on how north yorks.

paul

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Take the kick start off the put it back on inline with the dent on the pipe. simples:):):)

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Thanks for the quick replies.

Yes being it is bull**** or yes being the cable ties serve a purpose?

If it is a simple as taking the kick start off and re positioning it that sounds like a easy fix. Thanks!

Below is a link to some photographs (I could not figure out how to put them on here) As I have just taken them it is a bit dark in the shed so they may be a bit hard to make out.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByCII1n-sinWLXVGWmZZb01CS28&usp=drive_web

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Answers to 3,4,5

3:It could be: compression, stator ( common fault) ,ignition timing, and gap in sparkplug

4: tighten bolts or replace gasket/seal at start of pipe

5: yes the owner is right it saves mudguards but I prefer to use plastic bolts as it does the same job but don't have to cut it when you change airfilter

Good luck :)

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I recently saw a JTG where the owner had used the plastic clips from modern car bumpers in place of the zip ties.

The ones where you press a button and a barb expands 3 or 4 tangs when through hole. Good use of those clips I thought?

Mags

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So what are you mixing the gas and oil at?

that's an interesting question as I wonder about that measure myself.

book states 12.5% = 75ml per 5 litres

is that what everyone else uses?

mine doesn't got massive high revs for standing jumps or anything like that.

sorry for the mini hijacking.

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Good to know the cable ties actually serve a purpose. I think i'll get some plastic bolts at some point.

Tonight I came back from work and firstly took the kick start off and realigned it. Nice quick fix! I can feel a click/clunk which feels like it is coming from inside the kick start casing. The kick start does not grip straight away when you go to kick it. Normally I get the bite on the kick start then give it a kick. There is a slight click/clung which pushes the foot start down before you can really kick it.

The bike started first time!-- however it cut out after 2 seconds.

I thought it may be flooded so I kicked it over ten times with the throttle open - Nothing

Then I took the spark plug out - Nothing. I've never done anything with the spacing on the spark plug. It is a new one that is in.

The fuel question is a good one. I have used 100ml to 5 litres of petrol. How much effect does running the right fuel make? (sorry if I sound ignorant).

What is a Stator?

How do I change the ignition timing?

At Point 4. I'll get on checking the bolts to see if they need tightening later tonight.

Thanks for all the help!

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I've had another go at the bike. On Wednesday I took the spark plug out and it was fine and I checked the fuel lines which were also fine. I took the carb out and looked at it and thought I don't really want to mess with this so it all went back together - By some miracle the bike started and I managed to have a half hour play before it stopped again and I had to ride it home.

I've gone to go out again every day since and it will start for about 5 seconds and then stop and not start again. v frustrating!

Any suggestions?

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I hate to be the one to say it but it kinda sounds like you are not the one who should be working on the bike until you get some more knowledge, taking a carb off to look at it and putting it back on untouched just gives potential for more mistakes

If you start the bike and it stalls after 5 seconds and you do that several days in a row all you are doing is fouling the top end with fuel, it's all choked up now

Toss the old plug regardless how it looks to your eye as you cannot see carbon tracking

Start the bike and get off the choke immediately and run it til it's warm

As for diagnosis you need to have a second opinion on wether the bike has a problem or you have to just learn the starting and warmup process and maybe how to adjust the pilot air screw

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Evo

I 100% agree with 0007 on his comments.

Your lack of trials bike specific technical knowledge could instigate new problems or in fact exaggerate those that are already there.

Best take the bike over to Lampkins the Beta importer in Silsden, Yorkshire.

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You don't have the gas/ petrol on. The fuel petcock is counter intuitive on these bikes unless they changed them for the evo. Turn the gas on so that if you were lying on your back looking up at the petcock it would be pointing to 3 o'clock. Or put the damn thing on reserve. Now put on the choke. Put your right hand on the bar pad so that you are not inadvertently twisting the throttle when you kick.

Have the bike on a stand. When you start her. Don't slam your foot down like on a dirt bike. Get her to top dea center them push smartly through the stroke. She should start within 4 kicks. Good luck!

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I hate to be the one to say it but it kinda sounds like you are not the one who should be working on the bike until you get some more knowledge, taking a carb off to look at it and putting it back on untouched just gives potential for more mistakes

If you start the bike and it stalls after 5 seconds and you do that several days in a row all you are doing is fouling the top end with fuel, it's all choked up now

Toss the old plug regardless how it looks to your eye as you cannot see carbon tracking

Start the bike and get off the choke immediately and run it til it's warm

As for diagnosis you need to have a second opinion on wether the bike has a problem or you have to just learn the starting and warmup process and maybe how to adjust the pilot air screw

I don't 100% agree with this, if your ever going to learn anything about bike mechanics then a 2 stroke trials bike is the best thing to learn on as its a simple engine in a very lightweight open frame. I've learnt everything I know so far by finding info online and doing it myself. Just concentrate on one thing at a time, say for example spend a few days online researching how to set the carb up on your particular bike then when you feel you've read enough about it go take take it off and have a go. Then move on to the next issue, and so on.

I do agree 100% though that having someone who knows trials bikes have a quick look at it to see if they can start it etc is a good idea, that will eliminate whether or not you just haven't got the knack yet. If you have any local trials clubs you should get down to one and see if anyone can take a quick look.

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