November 15, 201411 yr Guys thanks for your help, I'm now the owner of a 1980 TL320.,,.brought her back at 1pm....stripped down by 5pm ready for powder coating and refit.No nasty surprises but a few things I've noticed:Gearing seems high....running 14/40 at the moment.....thinking of going to a 13 front.Clutch is light, positive and I can get nuetral too...easier than my my Beta REV3! But there is no undertank lever lightener system....cable goes from lever direct to clutch cover.Shes a little crackly on the noise front....is it possible to repack the silencer....which weighs more than boat anchor?Trans oil.....10/40?Any advise welcome Edited December 6, 201411 yr by iconic558
November 15, 201411 yr Author Pics...ahh good question sir....see "is this a 1980TL" thread... .. .I'm embarrassed to say i didn't take any before I stripped her down....took lots during the strip to remind me where the bits go though! Edited November 15, 201411 yr by iconic558
November 15, 201411 yr To the sprockets original the rear is using 38 and the front sprocket 13 teeth, still a "fast" gearing. I switched now to 38 rear and 12 front, wich works good, now I use second more and first only for thight curves. Transmission oil, I personal use Elf HTX 740 in all my bikes standard ATF works too, you need some amount around 1,2 Liter.
November 15, 201411 yr Clutch lightening system only much later, yours should be straight to cover. Gearing as per pschrauber, (Patrik) Oil1.2 l but you can also try 5/30. Silencer, cut a plate out back of 1st box and repack around cleaned perforated tube.
November 22, 201411 yr Clutch is light, positive and I can get nuetral too...easier than my my Beta REV3! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ The Beta problem will go away if you carry out the above
December 6, 201411 yr Been following this with interest, really looks good! I see you got the bash plate on, we have all been there. Nice work Larry
December 6, 201411 yr Great outcome very sanitary, but ... I personal do not like the fasteners of the sidepanels and rear fender to name two places and would change them. Why not use these screws which rounded head which are called round headed bolts, these fits much better to the bike and were of the type SWM used back in the day, you get them in steel and stainless steel: Forgot to name them in German: Becherschraube, (try google / fleabay) Edited December 7, 201411 yr by pschrauber
December 8, 201411 yr Author Great outcome very sanitary, but ... I personal do not like the fasteners of the sidepanels and rear fender to name two places and would change them. Why not use these screws which rounded head which are called round headed bolts, these fits much better to the bike and were of the type SWM used back in the day, you get them in steel and stainless steel: Forgot to name them in German: Becherschraube, (try google / fleabay) yes, this is how SWM built them originally and many thanks for the link, but for me I like to use an allen fittings where ever I can as it's less tools to carry around in my bum bag, or erm, fanny pack.
December 8, 201411 yr OK your bike and your needs, there are too Inbus (Allen) Linsenflachschrauben (in english "complicated") available ... but they look a little bit different: Also on fleabay ... http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=Inbus+Linsenflanschschrauben+&_sacat=0
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