Jim has a new video posted

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cwQ2eRj-jo&list=UUuuOSB4N2iUkW8dbbH7HJpw

looks much more decend than the old one!

he skips over why its a better design alittle, but dies say, its like a car, and it has a double seal, so is likely to last much longer.

The inner part looks way better. The old version is just a seal with the shaft turning inside, and I think the outer brass? bushing is like holding it in place/ The shaft did get ''cut'' in quite fast making it leak and killing your clutch plates.

The new one the housing is made of one peace, and the inner part looks like it has some bearing or so? At least you cant lose the small washer anymore!

Edited December 12, 201411 yr by crazybond700

What does anyone think of the smooth hose spigots, no serration or lip to help retain the hose?

I think its unnescisarry. On the gg you have to work quite hard to get them loose actually, because they are just stuck in between the waterpump and rad.

What does anyone think of the smooth hose spigots, no serration or lip to help retain the hose?

Won't be a problem while the hoses are still new but when they get a few years old there could be some sealing issues when the hoses soften and expand.

Some of the castings on the old style pumps are bad, I have had to dress up a few of the lips in the past and I have also seen one wear the hose from the inside.

Praise to Gas Gas for trying to sort some long term issues with the water pump, Hope this one is better.

Will it back fit the earlier models? Probably will but I can't be bothered to search part numbers at the moment.

Praise to Gas Gas for trying to sort some long term issues with the water pump, Hope this one is better.

Will it back fit the earlier models? Probably will but I can't be bothered to search part numbers at the moment.

Yes, without a problem watch the video

The new pump looks good and I'll definitely get one.

However, regardless of any claim to having two seals it still won't guarantee you won't get coolant in the transmission oil because there is no weep hole to the outside. Most water pumps (eg. Sherco, Montesa, virtually all cars and road bikes) have a weep hole between the two seals. If the coolant seal fails you'll see coolant leaking from the hole and it can never pressurize the oil seal. You can even keep riding if the leak is just a drip. With the Gas Gas setup, you don't know if anything is wrong until you get a transmission oil milkshake. It doesn't appear that this new pump changes that but I hope I'm wrong.

Now all we need is a reliable thermo fan switch.

Chris

Brisbane Australia.

Yeah thats true. However it does seem way better. And other machines have mostly got two seals, one for oil, and one for coolant. If the outer one breaks you will get coolant out of the weep hole. The inner than still is intact, so no flued will get in the tranny.

But the gg only has a 1 seal setup. But this new ''seal'' looks way better. The common problem of the gg setup was that the shaft would get ''eaten'' and than it got leaking (picture below, have seen much wore though). I think this problem can be solved with the new setup. So only if the seal starts leaking you can have a problem, but maybe now it will only happen in the frequency with like normal/other bikes.

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Edited December 16, 201411 yr by crazybond700

My last waterpump kit in a 2007 Pro lasted for about 4years with each month a run. Now oil getting milky. Also with the pump of (3 allen screws) water stil inside, I can see drops of coolingwater escape if I fiddle the shaft a bit.
I'm wondering, can the double lip seal been mounted the wrong way?
What is the correct position? The open end of the seal with the spring visble, facing the crank?
 

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/61301-water-in-oil-even-after-replacing-water-pump-shaft-and-seal/page-2#entry433115