My D803F rear is getting to the end of it's life. I'm still tossing up moving to the GPs front and back or moving to X11's. 

 

Michelin X11's have been discontinued for quite a while now, and are no longer available unless you find a shop that still has some.

I've got a 4rt with d.i.d rims and used the rear GPs in the SSDT and had no problems with them leaking. But now I've had a GP go flat twice on me with no signs of a puncture. Strange.

Michelin X11's have been discontinued for quite a while now, and are no longer available unless you find a shop that still has some.

 

I'd assume there is a fair amount of stock left in Australia especially since the GP has now taken the crown. Most of the typical suppliers I go to have plenty of stock left.

I've got a 4rt with d.i.d rims and used the rear GPs in the SSDT and had no problems with them leaking. But now I've had a GP go flat twice on me with no signs of a puncture. Strange.

 

sherco had a bad batch of dunlops

Michelin X11's have been discontinued for quite a while now, and are no longer available unless you find a shop that still has some.

Perhaps Honda bought them all - I see the blurb claims that the Cota 300 RR is equipped with X11s.

Ran a Dunlop rear for the first time today and found it great. I got it because the guy in the shop said the stiffer side wall means you can make it back if you get a flat tyre. Also plenty of grip for the novice routes I use!

Ran a Dunlop rear for the first time today and found it great. I got it because the guy in the shop said the stiffer side wall means you can make it back if you get a flat tyre. Also plenty of grip for the novice routes I use!

 

That is a lie. You can make it back if the tyre stays on the rim nothing to do with sidewalls.

Stiffer sidewalls probably means less grip.

To buy a product because its good when it fails is not always the best policy.

I can see the logic that a stiffer sidewall might be better/less likely to come of the bead if it punctured but agree the only thing that matters is it staying on the rim.

I've looked around the prices don't seem all that different or am I missing something?

Unfortunately a lot of Morad rims are slightly smaller circumference than DID rims.

IRC tyres seem ok on DID but not Morad

A tyres ability to remain on the rim will relate to the diameter of the bead; relative to the diameter of the bead seat on the rim and also the beads cross-sectional shape,combined with the shape and condition of the lip on the bead seat that retains it.

Agreed, and it will take an amount of force (over an area) to get the tyre off the rim. Personal opinion a stiffer sidewall would deflect over a larger area meaning a bigger side force would be needed to get it off the rim. So if everything else was equal it would be more likely to stay on the rim. Either way the original quote made about the tyre is inaccurate.