jml

Hey all, The reach/brake switch holder on my Braktec front brake levers has started to back itself out, does anyone know what the goop is they put in there to freeze the bolt in place. I've been told it's not loctite, it seems to be a plastic/rubber substance. It's only to last me for a single trial on the weekend, after that I'll be buying a proper set of adjusters.

Thanks!

What's the effect of winding the clicks inward for both Compression and Rebound? Do both clickers increase the effect of damping and winding both out mean there is no damping?

I was really close to doing the same, I've been reading many have had success with replacing the Keihin with an OKO to solve my problem.

I think the bump in idle RPM is the way to go. Oh I also changed out the 52/125 jets for 45/120 and it just bogged really back on quick throttle bursts. It's back to normal while I figure out what to do!

Hey Copemech, This is how I was running it originally around 20.5 mm and inline with the casting mark under the jet holder. It didn't solve the problem, I believe this recommended is only to avoid overflowing of the carb on steep descents which results in reducing the amount of fuel lost out of the overflow pipe. This recommendation from splatshop is also a recommendation for their experiences with Sherco bikes which I believe have a slightly steeper carb angle compared to the Gas Gas. I've quickly superimposed the 2015 Sherco and Gas Gas bikes with equal sized dimensions and this seems to be the case.

Hey all, I've had a similar issue with the bike blubbering on downhills on my Beta with a Keihin PW28 and now I'm having it on my 125 TXT Pro. I've stripped and cleaned the carb, made sure the jetting is correct for my riding locations and also adjusted the air mixture screw to around 2.5 turns out and I've got the floats level with the casting at around 18 mm when held at 45 degrees. Raising the idle seems to help and I've veried the RPM on the Hardline Tacho which is reading around 1,400-1,500 RPM (bike in neutral/flat surface) to stop it from blubbering on downhills... is this normal? Regards, Jason.

Still got some problems, just wondering if anyone has run across this before? To me it sounds like a bad batch of seals? (I've also posted this on advrider)

If you wash them on a hot cycle, they shrink to 15"

How disappointing is that. How does blocking certain countries from watching this help the sport?

Pick whatever bike you can get the best support and parts for. I started off with a Beta and have moved to a 15" Gas Gas 125 purely because I have a better source of parts. Nothing worse than spending 1-2 months off the bike waiting for parts in the mail. I doubt anyone can fully answer your question unless they have owned, ridden and tested all of the current 2015 bikes on offer. Most people will have a bias to one brand or the other, dealers will also have a similar bias. I would try and ride as many 125's as you can get your hands on. Read through the manuals offered on all the manufacturers websites, talk to your local parts reps or check their websites. All bikes have their nuances and problems. There are things I love about the Gas Gas which are better than on the Beta and visa versa. More riding, less deciding

Awesome choice! You'll love it

It's the first time I've ever installed a brand new M/C, I should have pulled apart the piston and lubed it up. Instead I just filled it with oil and tried to bleed it. Lesson definitely learnt.

Sorted! Seems there was an airlock in the new M/C

Hey all, Recently picked up a second hand 2015 Gas Gas TXT Pro Racing 125 and I'm struggling with some clutch issues on the machine. Symptoms: With the bike off (or on) holding the clutch lever into the bar it will roll freely at first but slowly after a few seconds with the clutch still held in start to engage (almost as if something is leaking down) With the bike "on" holding the clutch lever into the bar, releasing the lever, even a tiny amount instantly engages the clutch and stalls the bike This all begun after I changed the clutch master cylinder, the original one was leaking near the lever for no reason, even after a seal kit the lever persisted to leak. An entire, brand new master cylinder has been installed, bled and new seals have been installed on the slave cylinder for good measure. I've got a sneaking feeling that the clutch is leaking into the gearbox, either fluid is getting past the slave cylinder or possibly it might be a long shot... the clutch case is cracked and leaking internally. Possibly some fatigue or casting mistake. Extra note: I've just had another look at the new lever and it seems to also be leaking a bit around the cir-clip? Could is possibly be back pressure?

I don't think that's where his passion is anymore. The SSDT is where Dougie is in his element but more importantly it's an event he enjoys. It would take a massive effort to get into the mindset and physical shape to compete in WRs. I don't even think it comes down to skill or talent, it's hunger. Doug's been there and done that. I'm sure everyone could go back and crush Primary School if they did it again but really once you've done it... who really wants to go back.

I've got the CSP Idle screw and it's great. Is it just me or are Keihin carbs are very temperamental to temperature throughout the day? I got mine from splatshop! http://www.splatshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=csp+idle

I would be highly interested to see what Toni Bou could do in those wet, slippery conditions. Either way, I would agree that Doug is definitely the most complete rider not only due to his skill, but the fact he's developed a bike, managed a team and also been actively trying to expand the popularity of the sport with his videos. Also really humble to boot.

About two weeks ago my 125 Beta Evo started to exhibit a similar problem the night before a trial. I would rev the bike and it would hover at almost 10-20% throttle for around 5-15 seconds. I ended up pulling the carb apart, giving it a good clean by blowing compressed air and contact cleaner through all circuits and it resolved the issue.

I've been running the Dunlop D803/D803F last season and didn't have a problem with them (I'm a novice rider) moved to X11's for this season. I'd say as long as you stick with Michelin X11/ Dunlop D803 or the D803GP you'll be right. I've been told that old X-Lights were a little bit fragile and prone to puncture and leaking due to cracks, but the new X-Light 'Competition' tyre fixes most of those problems. Being one of the highest spec tyres I'd say the X-Light still has some concessions compared to the 3 previously listed and that's part of the reason I didn't go with it myself. In terms of performance in descending order, I've generally thought of it like this: Michelin X-Light Competition Dunlop D803GP Michelin X11 Dunlop D803 Their price also reflects this order.

What are your goals for riding trials? Are you looking at riding competition? Seeing as though you'll be riding your bike and not your mate, go whatever bike size you feel comfortable with.

Is this your first bike?

Thanks jfc, I've been looking for this answer all day

Thanks crazybond, I'm starting to see it's more than likely you're right and it's original. I've got a friend who is going to take some photos of their 2015 125 over the weekend, I'll post up the photos just in case anyone else stumbles upon this problem. Thanks for the help

The 14's flywheel seems to be a little different to the 15, the 15 has the recess around the the flywheel bolt which hugs the black disc. I'm trying to find someone who has a 2015 125 who's willing to take a picture to set my mind at ease as I still cannot confirm if it's a factory flywheel as it looks so damn similar to the one in the parts manual