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Yes Or No ?


craigrushton
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You need to out the software on the computer.

Start the software, then pick ECU

I'd better look again, I havnt done it in a bit.

But I'm cleaning up the. Bike now and replacing the sparking plug- easy to connect the computer and remind myself.

Edited by lotus54
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I just hooked it up to my bike.

Connect the cable (I have a small battery I use to power it up when not running also)

Start up the K-Scan software.

For me it hooks right up and starts reading.

Then you can reset TPS, adjust base mixture, read and clear trouble codes etc.

To load a new map, you use the other software.

I was pretty cautious doing so- but didn't brick it or anything!

I have a number of maps, but probably all the same ones that come on the various USB drives - I think I downloaded theses from the Cable website.

Very easy.

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Ditto as Lotus54 said. It needs 9-12 volt power before ECU starts communicating over USB. The kit I have has 12V adaper to plug into capacitor circuitry, you have to disconnect the cap then connect the 12V cable. You will hear fuel pump fire up when connecting.

After ECU stars comming all the graphs, info & diagnostics go live in K-scan software. Good test to see If ECU is responding is to choose ECU info, if theres no data then no ECU response, if serial number etc presented then OK and all works.

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Yes it needs to be loaded, they should be .exe files that when younclick on them they put the actual program on your computer. With my leads I have a 12 volt adapter that connects to the plug Behring the number plate that powers the system (when energized you should hear the fuel pump prime) then when you plug in the leads from the computer it should detect and the graphs and other functions should be available

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OK, the exe files will be in the zip or rar. You need to extract those files using win zip or win rar which are free programs that will basically unpack those files to your computer so you can then install them. Zip and rar files are a method of shrinking file sizes for easier distribution

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thanks I've had a play and unzipped the Kscan program 

so tomorrows play time, do you not just plug the wall plug 

in to the capacitor  ? why have you made up battery links 

if you can use the one that comes with the kit ? 

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It's proven many times over that a well designed and mapped FI is superior to any fiddly carb in existance (ask ANY high-end race machine designer or race mechanic (only a village mechanic will tell you carb is superior)). Why the other manufacturers dont use it is a simple case of experience. They have none. FI needs a lot of work at the beginning to get things right for the speciefic engine, most manufacturers just dont have the balls to make a move from that smelly carb they are too used to and it does work satisfactory for them.

With FI you can make it work brilliant.

True, OSSAs FI isn't perfect either (a system w/o battery do doubt will have starting issues), but TRi is known to be the smoothest pulling and most predictable 2T trials bike engine currently around. Its not because reverse cylinder, its because they have invested a lot of time making a well mapped FI for it.

 

It depends on what you mean by superior. An EFI system may be able to give better "at the limit" performance but does that matter on a trials bike? The carbs advantage is its simplicity, low cost, low weight and reliability.

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It depends on what you mean by superior. An EFI system may be able to give better "at the limit" performance but does that matter on a trials bike? The carbs advantage is its simplicity, low cost, low weight and reliability.

 

I would NOT call carb reliable nor simple. I've had 4 carbed bikes and they've created me about 10X more problems than the 3 EFI bikes I've had. With EFI motorcycles I've ridden around 300 000 kilometers, visited all continents (except Antarctica), over 80 countries, from -200 meters (Dead Sea) to 5360 meters (Himalaya passes in India) above sealevel, from -25C to +45C deserts - and I've needed to touch nothing, I mean NOTHING, literally! OSSA included. It has run like a dream all the time during many years of excemplary service (and mostly that's an old BMW GS that is considered very unreliable by any Jap bike user btw). While with my (commonly known as super-duper "reliable" Japanese!) carbed bikes I've had constant hassles with wrong or annoyingly changing mixtures, clogged channelways, worn parts, leaks & smells. Even my wife's Suzuki DRZ 400 gives me constant annoyances and my hands often smell of fuel fiddling with it. Carb has way too many parts (vacuum pistons, springs, many screws, jets, needles, pressure rubbers, floating elements, bearings etc etc) that can wear out or go wrong, it has an airflow and channelways intertia, is very suspect to flow turbulances as you play with the throttle - hence it's very hard to control & too often unpredictable, let alone to make it simple. Due to unability to make it simple to make it work as predictable by a human rider as they can a modern carb is actually made very complex compared to modern EFI, most modern carbs have at least over 30 different parts, better carbs around 60 parts, over half of them that can go wrong.

 

EFI only has a ECU, TB, temperature & pressure sensor, fuel pump, pressure regulator & injector. That's it - some 7-8 parts that can go wrong. Through experience I'd consider myself a testamony to EFI simplicity and reliability vs carb. The only "complexity" on EFI is mapping it for the speciefic engine and the intented use. So in the beginning that takes a lot of time, a lot of measurments, experience and experimentation by the manufacturer R&D team (and the very reason most trials manufacturers haven't dared to step into EFI territory) but once you nail it then you're done forever and no carb can compete with it.

 

Hence EFI is superior whatever the application it is deseigned for when done right. OSSA has made it superior particulary for low-mid rpms - mostly for traction and the engine be fully predictable by the rider on their TRi models.

 

Have you ridden an EFI OSSA?

 

To my surprise OSSA is actually surprisingly weak & mild on flat-out RPMs, there's no mad uncontrollable power like some bigger bore GasGas at full throttle. The payoff is OSSAs superb control on RPMs you mostly use in trials, the lows & mids. I mean with the right mapping (soft or hard surface speciefic) it's exeecingly hard to make rear wheel slip with OSSA, it just grips. You give throttle it comes as you expect to depending on opening, you shut it out it immediately shuts it as you can fully predict, there are no ifs or buts. With carb there's always some lag due to intertias of so many different parts, some residual mixture leakages or bypass flows and it's much more suspectible of flow turbulances than a well mapped EFI, making carb considerably more unpredictable by the rider in comparison. Hence the goal is not making peak power or peak performance as you say, but making it more controllable & predictable by rider to RPM ranges most used. That's where they OSSA made EFI superior to a carb - in trials application in this case, IMHO at least.

Edited by tsiklonaut
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thanks I've had a play and unzipped the Kscan program 

so tomorrows play time, do you not just plug the wall plug 

in to the capacitor  ? why have you made up battery links 

if you can use the one that comes with the kit ? 

 

Do NOT plug it to capacitor (and the connector should't let you). You need to disconnect the capacitor and connect the 12V to other end - to ECU.

 

When you plug in 12V you then hear fuel pump prime. Then ECU is powered up and is communicating over the USB, K-Scan goes live and all functions go active. Simple as that. :)

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right I've had it all connected up this morning and it sill comes up saying

it cannot connect to the ecu, now one instructions the only thing I havent 

worked out is how to set the KD diagnostic tool and KD map loader to transfer 

setting auto ???????? the fuel pump is woring away 

 

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Possibly an issue with the USB driver not installing correctly?

I use this on an old XP laptop I only use for diagnostics ( my SAAB and Ducati stuff requires old stuff)- I have not tried it with newer.

But generally the new win OS seems to handle the USB Better.

Look in your device manager and see if you can find the device

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Did you connect the data cable & 12V, and fuel pump made noise?

 

If all yes and not working then it's probably wrong port selected. In K-Scan try Transfer Settings menu and set port "Auto" from the popup selection. If it doesn't give any "can't find ECU" or similar error after few moments then it should work - see if then it says "connected" on bottom right of the main K-Scan program window, if connecte it shows also the port number. Then you're ready to rock! Beware the next time you put the cable into different USB port you'll have the same problem, so try "Auto" again from Transfer Settings.

 

My same cable setup from Joa works OK even on (otherwise annoying-) Windows 10, so shouldn't be a problem with Windows version.

 

 

If no connect, then do ECU restart - disconnect cables from some 30 seconds. Then connect ECU, then 12V and repeat the Transfer Setting "Auto" function and see if it connects with this method.

 

Let me know if this works for you. 

 

Edited by tsiklonaut
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looks like I owe your another pint tsiklonaut as it all seems to be all working 

fine now, I've loaded a map recomeended by Joa for the 300 factory bike 

and I've upped the tick over but I now need to reset the TPS ???????

Edited by jsp
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