March 7, 201610 yr Well I have taken the plunge and got a 2014 Evo 300, I hope I have made the right choice. Give me the good and bad points on them.
March 7, 201610 yr Good: it's a beta Bad: it's a 300, you'll die FWIW, I think it's the most reliable bike in the trials field, outside of a Montesa perhaps. Certainly (again, with the exception of honda) it's the most stable manufacturer. The Beta's haven't changed substantially in years. The only real problem with mine in 120 hours were things I broke. And maybe the clutch, but that was mostly me again (poor adjustment).
March 7, 201610 yr Crikey the 300 Beta I rode was as soft as anything compared to the other 300's - it certainly wont kill you.
March 8, 201610 yr The matte black paint on the frame, fork lowers and swinging arm on the 2014 can scuff, scratch and chip up, this can make it look a bit scruffy. The red 2013's always look mint! You'll probably want to go over it with the spanners, make sure everythings tight (like the rear sprocket bolts) Some of the threads in the alloy frame can strip, usually the ones that hold the seat/rear mudguard on or have been threadlocked. A cheap M10 thread insert kit will sort those. Buy some reticulated foam and stuff it around the top of the rear shock, this will stop a lot of water splashing up into the air box. As normal with Betas, those grills in the seat break free, you can mess around with hot glue and the likes and it might work for a while. I ended up screwing the things in place. Each grill held with 3 countersunk socket caps fitted flush. I used tiny M2's in black so they are hard to spot. No way they are coming off again! Clean and gently squeeze up the small, push on spade connector on the coil. It can rattle loose and it's in the firing line for muck and water. Make sure there's plenty of meat on the brake pads, they don't like it when they are thin. Re clutch, there's a guide to cleaning the friction plates up on this forum. There's also this http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/STT-2012-3-Evo%20300%20clutch%20set%20up.pdf The UK 300's came with a flywheel weight, it might have been removed by now. It's worth having, they work well with them fitted, but if it's still a bit of a handful, try a slow action Domino throttle (Black tube slow, White tube fast).
March 8, 201610 yr I had the factory 300 and I must say it is a very, very impressive all round bike - you can't possibly go wrong with one!
March 12, 201610 yr Author Had a go on the bike today, and i am glad to say i am still alive. Put a slow action throttle on it and it is just perfect for me power wise. only problem with it is the clutch is very noisey when engaged. I also noticed i have to use the clutch a bit more when going realy slow compared to my rev3 250. Edited March 12, 201610 yr by endokid
March 13, 201610 yr Author 10 tooth front sprocket will slow it down. It does have a 10 tooth front on it, and a 42 on the rear is this correct.
March 17, 201610 yr 10 front 42 rear is fine. It's what I use on my 2014 300. But my son prefers 11/43 on his 2013 300.
March 17, 201610 yr Think standard used to be 11 tooth but from 13/14 they changed it to ten on front.
March 20, 201610 yr Author Changed the gearbox oil to some Putoline Nano 75w has transformed the clutch action on the bike,also the 10/42 gearing is perfect. Done some nice big hill climbs yesterday and plodded about for about 2.5 hours. The bike was perfect nice and smooth but plenty of power when needed glad i got one.
March 20, 201610 yr 75w seems a bit thick. A good 10/40w that is wet clutch certified would do just as well.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.