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goudrons

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About goudrons

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  • Bike
    Vertigo Combat Camo

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    UK
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    Male
  1. Still can't find the missing needle bearing - advice?

    I've managed to remove a dropped wrist pin clip by swilling out the crankcase with the normal mix of petrol/2T and blowing it out with compressed air from a can with a straw, the stuff used to clean PC keyboards and the like. This canned air is really useful stuff and worth keeping in your tool box.
  2. OOF!!!

    I thought he's crushed his cojones!
  3. 2011 Beta 290 Cutting Out

    Check the wires to the coil.
  4. 315r or rev 3

    I don't know too much about the 315R other than that they stopped producing them in 2004. From what I hear they aren't bad, but I am sure parts will be getting thin on the ground now, best checking with the importer. They do feel a bit heavier and more "old school" compared to similar Betas, Shercos etc that are a bit more svelte. The Rev3 was produced from 2000 to 2008 and got progressively better as it went. I seem to think some plastics are getting hard to source, but I think everything else is pretty much available, the importer is close to you in Skipton (though they used to be closer in Silsden), might be worth a ring to John Lampkins and ask what's not available anymore. After my fair share of them in the past I think I can comment on the common problems. Stator can fail, though you can get them rewound. Check the rear shock, the bladder in them can split, if so it'll leak and/or sound all slurppy and no one will recon them. Need to run on 98 or 99 octane fuel otherwise they'll pink and knock. 2000-2007 models have Mikuni Carbs and they can suffer bad fueling if the float level isn't bang on (it's not the most sophisticated carb and it feels it!) 2008 had a Keihin and much better for it. Clutches have always been a bone of contention, they can suffer with awful drag, even the later Evos. Had a couple chew up water pump impellers, easy to replace the cheap plastic items with a larger alloy one. Another option might be the Scorpa SY250, that has a Yamaha engine with a similar linkless rear suspension setup to the Beta. I seem to remember they were pretty well built and don't remember seeing too many in bits out the back of a van! I'll probably get banned from this site, but I don't think Gasgas models around the mid '00 weren't the best. My one venture with a 2005 didn't go well, bits fell off or broke with shocking ease and regularity, same as all my riding buddies. If you've not joined a club, do so, the members will be a good source of information, with plenty of bikes to nose around and there's usually a few with bikes for sale.
  5. OSSA MAR steering bearing felt seal and cover

    Steve Sells (Marlimar) was the Ossa man when I restored mine. steve@marlimar-uk.wanadoo.co.uk Not sure if this is his number still 07800 778048 Ossa's aren't his living, more a sideline, so you might have to wait a bit for a reply, but I'm sure he'll have everything you need. There is a Spainish company called Ossacels, though I never used them myself. http://ossacels.com/ventas/index.php
  6. Cant start up the bike

    Try unplugging the lanyard from the loom. One or two have had issues with them. Check the connection from the battery/capacitor to the loom, just follow the wire out of the airbox on the left hand side until you get to it. My connector failed completely and failed to fire, ended up having to chop the connector out, only found the fault by jiggling the connector. Although no one tells you, the 9v rechargeable battery needs to be in tip top condition to get a clean start and no battery lasts forever, so it's wise to buy another and a mains recharger if you're not planning on converting it to batteryless. Another tip learnt the hard way, don't store the bike for too long it with fuel in the tank, once the fuel goes stale it bungs up the fuel pump and modern fuel goes off very quickly.
  7. Beta Rev-3 270 rough running? Petrol Info?

    Beta's handbook states to run them on "super grade unleaded". They pink and knock on anything less than 97 ron. They are also quite fussy with the float height setting due to the angle of the carb, you might find some help on here to set it, though you should be able to find a handbook to download for it on the web somewhere, any Rev 3 book from 2002 to 2007 will do. (2000, 2001 were similar but certain parts like forks and airbox were different and 2008 had a different carb altogether) If someone has had it apart, did they put it back together properly? I'd check the timing at the very least.
  8. Best small van on a budget

    Fiat Doblo, but get the MPV version rather than the van. You'll get two bikes in it still if you flip the rear seats, but pay less road tax and insurance than the van version.
  9. TY 175 rebuild

    Feetupfun is correct, the standard VM22 has a flange, unlike the original SS with a spigot. The original VM22SS carb was some sort of special, one off jobby, even Mikuni know very little about it, I tried to find a new one myself a few years ago, but ended up doing the swap to a stock VM22 that was machined to fit. BJ Racing can supply a stock VM22 which has been machined to replace the SS as a kit. If I remember correctly, SS takes a very large main jet (240 rings a bell), the one in the machined stock was about half that, methinks. You might find a OKO kit for it at Mid Atlantic Trials or you could have a go at jetting one yourself. Though be careful if you do try this, even though the OKO is a copy (of a Keihin), there are ropey copies of the OKO's out there these days and none of the proper OKO's jet will fit. As you have probably read, a lot describe carb set up as being fussy or difficult, but what tends to happen is owners end up chasing a "better" set up. There's always a danger of tinkering and fiddling to see if you can make it better!
  10. Crankcase damage

    One will just drop in and the shift drum holds it in, though it won't be oil tight, just keeps some of the sh*t out. Best advice is, don't fix what ain't broke. If it's ok now, leave it and have some fun. Splitting the cases when you don't really need to (like crank rebuild, mains bearing or seals) will more likely cause a load of other issues. They aren't overly complicated, but they can bite back, I've seem plenty mullered by guerilla engineers. You can put far too much into one of these and to be truthful, you don't get much out. There are a few useful mods that help them a little, adding an inch to the swinging arm, modding the top yoke to move the bar clamps over the top of the yokes and dropping the forks down the clamps around an inch helps them steer a bit better as does moving the foot rests back and down a little. They don't really ride that great compared to most, if not all the competition of the day and they can swallow a lot of money quite easily that you'll not see back. But sometimes madness takes over and I once got hooked on one. Just don't ask what I spent, I prefer to try and forget!
  11. Crankcase damage

    It's already been mentioned it's a hole machined to hold the shift drum and should have a plastic cap inserted from inside, but most got damaged there as it's were the chain hits if it comes off the rear sprocket. So finding a good case is very hard! I remember buying up 6 or 7 complete cases to try and find a decent one when I did my refurb. The old trick was to jam a coin in there from the inside, any oil that spilled out lubed the chain! Just remember to top the gear oil up before use. A 2p piece fits perfectly. There's a weak point on the case at the other side too, around the post for the kick start return spring. Usually once the splines on the kick start shaft wear away, owners get a bit brutal with the kick starter, repeatedly smashing it around until either the spring breaks of more often, the post snaps off and rips a hole in the inner case. This can also crack and take out the lowest, rear most point of the case at that side too.
  12. Security screw on intake manifold

    It seems those screws are correct. The parts list describes 31.38010.000 x 3. M6x25 Screw t.c.c.e. and 007.11.031.00.00 x 1. M6x20 Screw (and shows it top left out of the four) For 125-250-300 Apart from the different heads, one is 5mm shorter?? The 200 just gets 4 x 31.38010.000.
  13. Changing crank seals is a pretty major job and as already written, if you don't needed to, don't. Also, if you've never done them before, find out what's actually involved, the process sounds simple enough until you realise the crank is stuck on a main bearing or the crank isn't centred after you've rebuilt it! If you're going to go to the effort of splitting the engine, it's probably wise to do a complete engine overhaul. The obvious signs the seals are leaking is when it's a pig to start and won't idle properly when/if it does start (but they are signs of a lot of other issues as well) I don't know the history of your bike, but I've bought, ran and rebuilt lots of similar stuff, (a couple of these too) and I find it's always a good idea to know what state everything you already have is in and to start collecting parts for when things do give up, sooner rather than later as some parts get harder to find as the years roll on. In the meantime, enjoy it.
  14. Bleeding brakes

    Yes, a large syringe, say 100ml and a short piece of pipe to fit the nipple.
  15. been looking at 2005 beta 250 rev3

    It's difficult to price one, but you wouldn't want to pay big money for one, perhaps around a £1200 or so, plus or minus a couple of hundred depending on condition. They made the Rev3 from 2000 to 2008 with a few tweeks and updates over the years and they sold a lot, but even the last one's are getting a bit old now, though if it's cheap enough and well sorted, it could still give a lot of fun and you shouldn't have too many issues finding parts. I've had a couple myself and there isn't too much specific to worry about, perhaps the rear shock. You used to be able to get them serviced and rebuild, but I don't think that's viable any more, if it needs one it's an aftermarket one. Check it doesn't leak or squelch, which is a sign the bladder in it has split. The case inside the water pump have been known to rot out allowing coolant into the gearbox, not all do it, but there was a spate of them at one time. You really need to check it out, a used bike can easily need a hefty lump of money spent on it. Start with a visual check and add up what you think it may need. Check the tyres, not just for wear but they can rot and crack with age, the wheels spin free and true, chain and sprockets look good, plenty of meat on the brake pads (2mm min), steering and swinging arm bearing are smooth and tight, leaks from suspension, engine, carb, tank/tap etc, broken plastics and so on. This list should give you an idea if it's been cared for or not. Then move on to how it starts, runs and rides. The Mikuni VM round slide carb was never the most sophisticated, so they never run ultra crisp as a more modern bike might, if it's not set up properly it can bog down and leak up and down hills. (2008 came with a keihin flatslide, much better). It should start from cold on choke with a couple of keen kicks (not dozens) and come off the choke within a minute and idle fairly smoothly. It should rev up fairly cleanly and evenly without undue noises and settle quickly back to and even idle. Check the fan kicks in when fully warmed up. You really need to ride it and load the engine up and listen for knocks, bangs and rattles, though they can pink (ping? pre detonate) a bit if ran on normal 95 unleaded, they need a minimum of 98 octane. Clutches are known to a bit of a problem, they can drag fairly badly. There is a good guide in the Beta section to help, do it's not always a complete fix. It can feel like you just can't pull the clutch in far enough to disengage it. This can also cause a poor feel to the gear shifter or a very stubborn action when shifting (particularly into neutral) as the gearbox can always have some load on it because of the dragging plates, this and the drag can spoil the experience of an otherwise good bike.
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