September 17, 20178 yr Hi all recently bought a 17 st 250 factory, went practicing today and the engine was warm went to engage gear and the bike was stalling / leaping forward, using the adjuster on the lever I maxed it out and the best I can get is as soon as the lever is not touching the bar the bikes wants to go, which is far to low to have control at low speeds, any ideas? Bike is brand new and has done 3 rides, cheers.
September 17, 20178 yr Take it back to your dealer for advice and or repair....they should be happy to help you out
September 17, 20178 yr Hi , I have the same bike after one ride mine went the same, clutch res was empty re bled it and topped up been ok since then 6 months on .
September 17, 20178 yr Author 10 minutes ago, pauls320 said: Take it back to your dealer for advice and or repair....they should be happy to help you out I'm going to ring them tomorrow, hopefully they will cover the cost for me to take it somewhere local as they are a 3 hour drive for me
September 17, 20178 yr Author 5 minutes ago, yetishane said: Hi , I have the same bike after one ride mine went the same, clutch res was empty re bled it and topped up been ok since then 6 months on . Thanks mate great help ?
September 18, 20178 yr Author Dealer is sending me a bottle of fluid, is it the same procedure to bleed a clutch as the brakes? Cheers
September 18, 20178 yr 37 minutes ago, bikemad04 said: Dealer is sending me a bottle of fluid, is it the same procedure to bleed a clutch as the brakes? Cheers Yes.
September 18, 20178 yr Author 6 hours ago, oni nou said: To save mess, try slowly filling the reservoir first and then flick the clutch leaver rapidly a few times and look for a stream of tiny bubbles coming from the hole at the bottom of the reservoir keep flicking the leaver and every now and again slowy pull the leaver to the grip and you should find that you get your clutch fairly quickly withot having to crack open the bleed nipple at all . Thanks buddy il try that
September 19, 20178 yr That's the way I've always bled the clutch, just make sure you have a bit of freeplay in the adjuster before you do it so that the piston returns properly & clears the hole May take you 1/4 hour but it is definitely the easiest way
September 20, 20178 yr Author On 19/09/2017 at 4:16 AM, tony27 said: That's the way I've always bled the clutch, just make sure you have a bit of freeplay in the adjuster before you do it so that the piston returns properly & clears the hole May take you 1/4 hour but it is definitely the easiest way Nice one mate hopefully have a go later.
September 26, 20178 yr How can you actually tell that you got all the air out? Clutches aren't like brakes that have a positive stop to expect. Do you need to look at clutch throw with the cover off?
September 26, 20178 yr No need to take clutch cover off. When all the air is out no more bubbles come to the top, I've heard of guys using a cable tie to keep the lever pulled back to the bars overnight but have never needed to do that
October 13, 20178 yr My son's 250 Factory had problems with the clutch fluid leaking this way. The clutch slave hose had too much bend in it and it hit the transmission case and couldn't be tightened properly. I don't know the final solution but sherco had a fix. Talk to your dealer or Ryan Young. Edited October 13, 20178 yr by bultaco82 the need for a better explanation
October 13, 20178 yr Interesting topic, missed this earlier. My new 17 300 was perfect til I had an off, immediately it needed adjusted, rode the rest of the trial fine then didn't use it for about a month, then like the OP, couldn't get it to work with stalling and jumping forward, checked the level, nothing. Bled clutch with new oil and it's fine, still nae idea where the fluid went when I had my off though.
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