The clutch is sticking pretty bad. (If you fix something something else goes). The bike will travel 10 yards after the clutch has been pulled fully, a burst of the throttle may loosen it, so might the front brake. The front brake led to frequent stalls.

There is a gear oil leak, think it is from the crankcase, I have been topping up the oil.

I have put the bike on its side to take the plates out. I tried the clutch with the cover off and there was a suctiony release clicky noise each time I operated it.

I have the clutch plates out and the friction plates average out at 2.56mm thick, the individual one I measured across the friction squares came in at 2.66mm.

I had to prise them apart with  my nails, they came apart with a click.They seemed stuck to each other with a thin film of oil.

New they are about 2.7 mm so they do not look too worn to me.

The oil is putoline light gear 75w

The steel plates appear flat when tried on glass.

The clutch was fine when I went up a hill on Friday Night, but not from the Start till the end of the two hour ride on Saturday.

My guess would be the wrong amount of gear oil, any suggestions.

 

Think you’ll find the oil is the wrong type. The clutches on these bikes had a notchy feel due to roughness in the original machining of the hub/basket. There’s plenty of info on the Sherco web site to.?

The Service manual says SAE 10W/40, and that is the grade of the Putoline. I am away to dig on the sherco site.

ta.

 

bought some Putoline Nano Trans GP Transmission Oil, following splatshop recommendation

That oil should be fine.

Does this sticking occur only after sitting? Does it operate normally after un-stuck?

It has only sticking for the whole two hour ride on Saturday, it was working on Friday night, never stuck  before.

It would be stuck just about every time I pulled the clutch on Saturday, even after being freed at the previous stop.

I always have to free mine off after it has stood, and that's with 75W light oil in the gearbox.

I understand that light sanding of the metal plates' surfaces with wet'n'dry is supposed to cure it, if you've got the clutch apart might be worth a go.

I free mine off before each start by rocking backwards in 5th (killed ignition!) and then have to ensure I keep the clutch pulled in until after the engine is running.

I've also heard of people keeping the clutch pulled in when stood using a cable tie or some such. Not done that myself

Yeh, it is not sticking.

Boo its slipping.

Lightly rubbed the steel disks, fresh oil, the last of the 75w, and I came unstuck.

Been spinning around at the house, it is slipping.

Enough for today, I will see what it wants to do tomorrow.

Was a common problem on Betas. See the clutch fix pinned to the top of the Beta forum. It may be relevant. 

Same fibre plates as used in Betas

What condition are the fingers on the clutch basket in? If there are any notches from the plates I'd order a new 1 along with rivets & rubber dampers off Splatshop, actually quite cheap & there is a page on their site showing how to do it. When I did mine I also upgraded to the later hub which flows oil better but it wasn't really needed, motor was much quieter after doing that as well

Try cleaning out the glue/cr*p out from between the friction pads on your plates, just like in Dans Beta clutch fix as it much improves the problem you are having on your worn plates. 

Clutch now functioning as it should, the perils of working on the bike when I should be having a snooze.

The washer behind the pressure plate had fallen off without me noticing, causing the slip. It is back in. All is good.

Next project is either an exhaust weld, or the fork seals.

Thank you all for your help.

Excellent. Congrats on finding the root cause.

On ‎9‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 4:04 PM, dan williams said:

Excellent. Congrats on finding the root cause.

look up that song " I have no roots!"