Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
dozerash

SWM Modifications

Recommended Posts

As I wrote above, sound level is (almost) comparable to stock. If you are in sensitive surroundings, don't go for a larger single outlet pipe or mx silencer. 

Regarding welding, I always use TIG for high stress or vibration exposed welds. You can get decent results using MIG, but the heat affected zone is bigger, the bead process is harder to control in detail, so I play it safe (or use my MIG to fix the parts and then do the actual welding with my TIG). Brazing with a gas torch (or TIG) is an alternative (but take some practice), specially on high alloyed steels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

8 hours ago, dozerash said:

I have been looking for those Aprillia parts with no luck!

Ask Mike Komar. Again another new yorker. great guy and rider. i think he has some aprilia parts still. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Instead of welding on the chromoly I made some plates from mild steel to relocate the pegs. Didn’t want to go radically back myself but it would be simple to make multiple plates to experiment with different  positions. I utilized the stock footpegs for kicker clearance. Oh,and don’t go so low on the peg position that the saddle contacts your leg above the knee when you lean the bike into turns as it will pull your body inside the tire contact patch.

A58ACFBA-7136-44DB-9FD7-3B2DF591EBBE.jpeg

Edited by htrdoug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
17 hours ago, turbohead said:

As I wrote above, sound level is (almost) comparable to stock. If you are in sensitive surroundings, don't go for a larger single outlet pipe or mx silencer. 

Regarding welding, I always use TIG for high stress or vibration exposed welds. You can get decent results using MIG, but the heat affected zone is bigger, the bead process is harder to control in detail, so I play it safe (or use my MIG to fix the parts and then do the actual welding with my TIG). Brazing with a gas torch (or TIG) is an alternative (but take some practice), specially on high alloyed steels.

Thanks for the welding tips! I’m just a self taught welder so any advice is great. This does make my decision when I upgrade my welder on what I should get. I’m also going to look into continuing education welding classes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, htrdoug said:

Instead of welding on the chromoly I made some plates from mild steel to relocate the pegs. Didn’t want to go radically back myself but it would be simple to make multiple plates to experiment with different  positions. I utilized the stock footpegs for kicker clearance. Oh,and don’t go so low on the peg position that the saddle contacts your leg above the knee when you lean the bike into turns as it will pull your body inside the tire contact patch.

A58ACFBA-7136-44DB-9FD7-3B2DF591EBBE.jpeg

  This is a great idea too! Do you notice much of a difference in width?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

First,sorry for the dirty bike,has just done Trialsmaster duty and got parked into the corner as I needed a bit of a break in thinking about trials...

I actually kinda like the narrower side to side width as it allows easier access to the end of the footpeg as I lean the bike. wouldn't mind a bit more for and aft width but also like the look of stock pegs so just not worrying about it right now. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

On my 1980/81 that I'm rebuilding. I moved the new foot pegs as low and far back as I could, I used my MIG welder. I didn't add any extra metal. I bought these pegs from Martin at MotoSWM. For some reason I'm not allowed to download anymore pictures.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

My modified 80/81 foot pegs. 

 

image.jpeg

Edited by dozerash

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 
On 06/10/2018 at 8:00 PM, turbohead said:

As I wrote above, sound level is (almost) comparable to stock. If you are in sensitive surroundings, don't go for a larger single outlet pipe or mx silencer. 

Regarding welding, I always use TIG for high stress or vibration exposed welds. You can get decent results using MIG, but the heat affected zone is bigger, the bead process is harder to control in detail, so I play it safe (or use my MIG to fix the parts and then do the actual welding with my TIG). Brazing with a gas torch (or TIG) is an alternative (but take some practice), specially on high alloyed steels.

Sir Bronze welding with an oxidising flame (less acetylene) is relatively easy to perform if you practice on some scrap metal first. Good thing about Sif Bronze welding is it is strong and as you only heat the metal to dull red then back off until it goes blue then go back in with flame and bronze rod that heat path allows the metal to expand further across its body so there is less chance of cracks as it cools after being joined. You can heat the join back up and take apart if necesssary. It absorbs vibration well and is the preferred joining method of many frame builders. Whereas Brazing, often confused with Bronze welding is not as near as strong or the best joining method for footrest hangers. MIG in the right hands is just as good as TIG but never produces as neat a weld bead size as TIG. Most frames were MIG welded in the 70’s and 80’s. You are lucky to be able to afford a TIG welding set, to most it’s a dream welding must have?

Edited by section swept
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
On 07/10/2018 at 10:13 AM, htrdoug said:

. Oh,and don’t go so low on the peg position that the saddle contacts your leg above the knee when you lean the bike into turns as it will pull your body inside the tire contact patch.

A58ACFBA-7136-44DB-9FD7-3B2DF591EBBE.jpeg

??? Great advice for the (severely) vertically challenged ! Probably not a problem for most riders, unless the footrest are actually dragging on the ground !!

Edited by b40rt
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I had a great Trials last Sunday! It was the last NYACT event of the season. My 1980 SWM worked great! I might also try higher bars or bar risers. 

A3C2B2FF-30E5-4B50-A96B-4A0D11F8CA9A.jpeg

Edited by dozerash
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
On 06/10/2018 at 4:29 PM, motoswm said:

If you find an Aprilia TXR or Climber clutch cover, make sure you get hold of the clutch pressure plate and the centre hub, makes it feel about 20% lighter over the standard SWM parts

20181006_130021.jpg

@brownie001

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...