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leosantanalg

S3 top end (big bore), worth it?

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Does anyone have the top end big bore with 11 cc (299) ? Can I have feedback on the product?

I m considering to put one in my 300rr. Would that put any harm on the bike? 

Note: it also has a titanium pipe. 

Thanks 

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Just wondering what the intent on the big bore kit is?  

I have a 2017 300RR and found the best power mod for the $ was to swap out the black throttle tube for a white one... Love how much snappier the bike is...

Outside of that you would likely get a lot more bang for the $ with a programmable throttle body than a big bore kit.  

Also something to consider before going to the bigger piston is fuel rate burn characteristics.  If you consider the HRC bikes Bou and Fuji ride you will see they are something like 314cc and have a dual spark system to give the best performance, so the closer you get to that size the more you will want the programmable throttle body to be able (if possible) to tweak both fuel and ignition timing.  

 

I know that was a bit long winded and may not even apply to what your after so feel free to disregard it if it doesn't.  

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On 9/15/2019 at 10:44 PM, jonnyc21 said:

Just wondering what the intent on the big bore kit is?  

I have a 2017 300RR and found the best power mod for the $ was to swap out the black throttle tube for a white one... Love how much snappier the bike is...

Outside of that you would likely get a lot more bang for the $ with a programmable throttle body than a big bore kit.  

Also something to consider before going to the bigger piston is fuel rate burn characteristics.  If you consider the HRC bikes Bou and Fuji ride you will see they are something like 314cc and have a dual spark system to give the best performance, so the closer you get to that size the more you will want the programmable throttle body to be able (if possible) to tweak both fuel and ignition timing.  

 

I know that was a bit long winded and may not even apply to what your after so feel free to disregard it if it doesn't.  

 

 

On 9/16/2019 at 12:23 AM, pauls320 said:

Pretty sure you will have to bore the cases to fit that cylinder kit

As far as I understand from the product description is just a top end swap. No bore needed! from 288 to 299 cc

I did get the white tube while ago and that did make a big diference!  I was told by several people that the titanium exhaust and head is the most useful power upgrade you can do on the production 4RT. If I put the titanium pipe, big bore kit and programmed throttle body, I will prob have a pretty sweet 4RT that costed me double of a 2 stroke in the end! lol   But nothing like riding the Honda, Its just a great machine, even with all the disadvantages when compared to 2 stroke. Does anyone have a ball park on the programmable throttle body?? The exhaust and head go for around $1100 in the USA and the Big Bore kit goes for roughly $800.  at this point I m also wishing that this new 301RR that will come out in October will have some of this features, but even with my very very limited knowledge in the trials Industry, It's still "wishful think" .  We will prob get a New color and sticker designs... 

Edited by leosantanalg

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6 hours ago, Robert n said:

Hi sorry to jump in what does the white thottle do thanks 

It’s a quick turn throttle tube.  In sort it takes less of a twist of the tube to go from 0 to full, about 1/4 turn if I recall correctly.

the outside diameter of the portion the cable wraps around is larger...

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18 hours ago, jonnyc21 said:

It’s a quick turn throttle tube.  In sort it takes less of a twist of the tube to go from 0 to full, about 1/4 turn if I recall correctly.

the outside diameter of the portion the cable wraps around is larger...

Thanks think that’s the last thing I need   Finding it hard to adjust to the 300rr  from a 2 stroke 

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9 hours ago, Robert n said:

Thanks think that’s the last thing I need   Finding it hard to adjust to the 300rr  from a 2 stroke 

what are you finding difficult?

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On 9/21/2019 at 8:07 AM, nigel dabster said:

what are you finding difficult?

I’m not sure how to describe I’m no expert it’s got plenty of power feels a bit numb not bouncy Iv noticed Iv got to be a lot more in the right position or it’s off  that’s a crap description but I’ll master it  ?

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On 9/23/2019 at 9:33 AM, Robert n said:

I’m not sure how to describe I’m no expert it’s got plenty of power feels a bit numb not bouncy Iv noticed Iv got to be a lot more in the right position or it’s off  that’s a crap description but I’ll master it  ?

Ya, my 300RR felt a bit sluggish and not quite as much bounce before I set the clickers on the front and rear suspension back a few and changed to the white tube.  Much better sense...

 

my two cents worth.  Hope it helps you out.

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On 9/24/2019 at 10:59 PM, jonnyc21 said:

Ya, my 300RR felt a bit sluggish and not quite as much bounce before I set the clickers on the front and rear suspension back a few and changed to the white tube.  Much better sense...

 

my two cents worth.  Hope it helps you out.

Thanks iv never really touched the suspension  what do you adjust to make it more bouncy  i know how bad this sounds but iv always just left it alone so i dont make it worse ?

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On 9/28/2019 at 3:10 AM, Robert n said:

Thanks iv never really touched the suspension  what do you adjust to make it more bouncy  i know how bad this sounds but iv always just left it alone so i dont make it worse ?

If you really want to play with it what I would suggest is to take all the clickers and figure out where they currently are set and then write that down.

now that you have the information to reset back if you find your not sure what you did because it isn’t riding nice you can start working through it.

I would start next by taking a ride to make sure you have a feeling for current settings and then going to the extremes on the soft/bouncy side and test riding it so you can feel the difference.  

Now from all the way out start going in about 2-3 clicks at a time on all of them tell it feels like your not bouncing like a pogo stick but can feel some control in the compression and rebound.  (Write this position down as well for reference.)

Now you will want to re-calibrate your brain a bit by riding a full practice session or two at the new settings.  

At this point you should have a good idea if you want a little more compression because of drops or less because of defection when hitting sharp edges or to let it move a bit more for hops and such.

Same should apply for rebound, little less for a better hop, little more if it’s kicking back a lot on hard edges.

I know it sounds redundant and over the top to write things down but the more you have on where it was and currently is the easier it will be to reset or adjust so you can tweak as you go to get a better ride.

 

good luck!

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