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4RT newbie questions


Cookiemonster
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Bought a 2018 4RT recently & have a couple of questions I hope someone can help with after my first ride at the weekend

firstly is the throttle with Montesa written on it a fast or slow action throttle? It does have a black body but seems a little fast

secondly regarding the clutch 

it only bites when the lever is almost fully out, not a big problem but I’d prefer the bite point to be around half way

I’ve had a 2T before & used the elf oil, changed to dimpled plates & also Haven (think that’s what they where) friction plates so I’ll be doing the same with the 4RT

question is 

is it worth doing the Friction plates on the 4RT? Or just the dimpled plates?

thanks

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Here is my 2 cents for what its worth. 

  1. Yes the Throttle is a slow (black) - I changed mine to a white and it was very noticeable how much quicker it is now. 
  2. You can adjust the clutch lever to your preference for the point the clutch bites with the adjustment screws.  I have known a few people even lightly file/grind the pin to get it even closer to the bars in some cases.   (Same on the brake lever side for adjustment)
  3. Friction plates or just the dimpled plates?  I think you will get the most progressive clutch feel if you do both, however the larger portion of the change is just the dimpled plates.  If do go just the plates I would stick with the higher quality oils for best results.

PS. If your not sure on what oil you want to use its best to two changes between the different oils for the best results between the different types (if you want changing it early to figure it out faster I would go at least a couple hours of riding on the first change before going to the second)

Hope this helps. 

Edited by jonnyc21
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hi jonnyc21

good to know ive a slow action throttle

thought about altering the adjustment screws but thought it might still feel the same (on/off) but nearer the bars

so guess it’s the elf oil & dimpled plates as a minimum 

from memory friction plates were more expensive than the steel ones but there are more of them 

the clutch will need bleeding won’t it once I’ve changed the plates?

thanks

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5 hours ago, Cookiemonster said:

firstly is the throttle with Montesa written on it a fast or slow action throttle? It does have a black body but seems a little fast

It is not the colour of the body that denotes fast or slow (bodies on all dominos that I have seen are black) it is the colour of the tube that denotes fast/slow. White fast - black slow.  Hope this helps.

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I would change oil first and see if it makes a difference before spending money.

Don’t think the clutch will need bleeding as cover comes off without disconnecting hydraulics if I recall 

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Thanks jonnyc21

I’ll re oil the air filter as suggested

ELF oil gets delivered tomorrow so I’ll change that over the weekend & see how I get on

fitted a wireless aprico hour/tachometer today at the bolt that holds down the fuel tank near handle bars

when I switched from hours to RPM it maxed at ~ 500 RPM & not the ~ 1800 RPM  I was expecting

could this be due to the distance it is from the spark plug?

cheers 

 

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18 minutes ago, Cookiemonster said:

Thanks jonnyc21

I’ll re oil the air filter as suggested

ELF oil gets delivered tomorrow so I’ll change that over the weekend & see how I get on

fitted a wireless aprico hour/tachometer today at the bolt that holds down the fuel tank near handle bars

when I switched from hours to RPM it maxed at ~ 500 RPM & not the ~ 1800 RPM  I was expecting

could this be due to the distance it is from the spark plug?

cheers 

 

Read the instructions that come with the meter, you have it set on multi cylinder not single.

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Worth buying a couple of air filters then always got a clean one

Get a Flame  proof after market one saves fiddling with original foam and metal cage.

once oiled leave to dry on the bench as if you put into air box straight away will I’ve starting issues until any solvent evaporated 👍👍

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  • 2 months later...

So managed to put around 6 hours on the bike (had to have my appendix out 🤒) and we’re getting along nicely

one gripe I have though is the magnetic lanyard kill switch doesn’t work, I’m having to stall it to stop it 

tried a new lanyard with no improvement 

some information on TC about tracing the wires to the ECU to see if corroded and also to check a connection under the tank

anyone else have any suggestions? Beginning to pi$$ me off

also had one instance of not starting when hot

Generally I ride for say 30 minutes then stop for a drink and a chat for 10 minutes then start again, no problem

this one time I tried to start again after a minute or 2 without any luck despite doing the ECU reset

drove home and 20 minutes later starts no problem...

any thoughts?

thanks

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 The magnet kill switches are junk. You can just replace it with a 2 wire kill button. I run a atv tether type switch in tadem with a Yamaha style kill button. Your starting issues are still tied to a low idle , I bet. Go to a new plug and up your idle.

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12 hours ago, Cookiemonster said:

So managed to put around 6 hours on the bike (had to have my appendix out 🤒) and we’re getting along nicely

one gripe I have though is the magnetic lanyard kill switch doesn’t work, I’m having to stall it to stop it 

tried a new lanyard with no improvement 

some information on TC about tracing the wires to the ECU to see if corroded and also to check a connection under the tank

anyone else have any suggestions? Beginning to pi$$ me off

also had one instance of not starting when hot

Generally I ride for say 30 minutes then stop for a drink and a chat for 10 minutes then start again, no problem

this one time I tried to start again after a minute or 2 without any luck despite doing the ECU reset

drove home and 20 minutes later starts no problem...

any thoughts?

thanks

I would trace it back to the connectors (usually bullet type on the 4RT's I have had) and then disconnect the switch and short them manually with a jumper wire to see if it stops the bike fine or not.  If it works fine that way then its probably internal to the switch and a new switch is your fix, if it still running then keep following the wires back tell you figure out if its a grounding issue, cut wire, corrosion or something else. 

 

PS. I would agree that if your willing to run a second push switch in tandem that might be a good backup just in case.  Also I would agree that the most common hot or cold start issues are caused by a low idle. 

Edited by jonnyc21
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Thanks lineaway & jonnyc21

traditional button kill switch is the way to go I think though I will have a look to see if there is anything obvious

where I ride you see loads of people stalling their bikes to shut them down......

Will also check the idle as suggested, if I could only get that hour/tachometer to work....

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