5 minutes ago, jofritz said:

so, for the condenser it won't make any difference... VW ?Volkswagen? but needs to be 6V, right? (It is quite some time ago when I last had a deep dive into restoring... most questions even seem dumm to me:-))

Volkswagen 👍 12v is fine.

21 hours ago, jofritz said:

so, for the condenser it won't make any difference... VW ?Volkswagen? but needs to be 6V, right? (It is quite some time ago when I last had a deep dive into restoring... most questions even seem dumm to me:-))

I guess any paper capacitor meant for ignition would do their job, but a paper capacitor would withstand far more voltage then 6V (at least 400V or so). It must be in parallel with the breakers but not necessarily at the breaker plate (as B40rt says), can be placed somewhere under the tank. This was a common fix, during its days accordingly to Yrjö Vesterinen, when they had to change capacitors quickly.

For breakers try to find NOS as they are correct for the engine. I have got the information that new Bultaco breakers might be meant for Lambretta and they screw up the Abriss distance. Yes, I know as I think this happened to me.

Hello guys,
I bought a flywheel puller M33x1.5 for Bultaco, but it doesn't fit (almost fits, but not quite)... where did I go wrong???

33 should be right for a Femsa ignition, not sure what Lobitos had though

Edited July 19, 20224 yr by sherpa325

found on ebay:

1. "Suitable for used with all Bultaco single cylinder 2 stroke engines. Thread; 34mm x 1.5mm"

which I think won't fit, as mine (M33x1,5) seems a wee bit to big already

2. "33MM x 1.5MM FLYWHEEL PULLER FOR BULTACO ..."

the one I bought... won't fit...

3. "Compatible for Husqvarna Femsa Motoplat Flywheel Puller [26mm x 1.5mm]"

I think, this one would fall right through as I meassure 31mm (wich points to an M33...)

and again... lost in time and lost in space💣

Edited July 18, 20224 yr by jofritz

If you are in England just buy one from In Motion Trials. Have a look on their webpage. Nearly all of the Femsa flywheels use the same size. I know the 100cc Lobitos use the normal Femsa pullers..

 

So... managed to take the flywheel off... discovered an essential part missing... like this no points will be opening, but see for yourself!!!

What next?

Edited July 19, 20224 yr by jofritz

so I think, this is how it is suposed to be... but I can't see no cam!!!

is it mounted on the backside of the flywheel?

Yes, on the inside of the flywheel. Which puller did you end up using?

the M33x1,5 , I had to use a wrench to screw it on and used some selfmade construction to hold the flywheel in position... actually it had a hard time finding its way into the flywheel thread... just did not feel good to force the old bike...

The condensor/capacitor in the picture is damaged, if you didn't do the damage, this is probably your problem.

well, I did 🔨 while trying to block the flywheel...

Ordered an automotive 12V as recommended earlier, will replace and locate outside the hot spot...

progessing slowly... but will keep you updated as soon as there is something happening...

got all parts to move the capacitor out of the heat... for the wiring I thought about an additional Magura kill switch, but was wondering if I need one, as it did not have one in the first place... didn't they use the decompression lever for killing the engine?

17 minutes ago, jofritz said:

progessing slowly... but will keep you updated as soon as there is something happening...

got all parts to move the capacitor out of the heat... for the wiring I thought about an additional Magura kill switch, but was wondering if I need one, as it did not have one in the first place... didn't they use the decompression lever for killing the engine?

Your Lobito would originally have had an ignition switch of some sort for stopping the motor. Decompressors are commonly used for stopping the engine at idle but may not stop the motor when it is in a runaway situation.

Lanyard breakaway kill switch and latching kill switch are effective devices for killing the engine in an emergency situation. The lanyard kill switch is the better of the two because the ignition is usually cut off sooner than with a kill switch.