bikespace Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 (edited) You really need one of these, designed specifically for trials rears <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's exactly the one I've got. I'll recommend it to anyone if you do enough tyres to make it worth your while. Makes it absolutely effortless. One of these and the standard tyre beader to get the tyre back on takes the hassle out of it totally. Edited June 3, 2006 by bikespace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 And let me guess - you're standing very close to a man who can supply them? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Steve Saunders John Shirt and Jitsie have the trials bead breakers, superb design makes the job very easy and is adjustable for disc or sprocket side, excellent campact and powder coated. As reccommended by Bikespace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Just stand on the tyre with your heels next to the bead!, simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrybaines Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Just stand on the tyre with your heels next to the bead!, simple. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wish it was that easy! tried that method for about thirty minutes until I had the `g` clamp and wood idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 Just stand on the tyre with your heels next to the bead!, simple. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sometimes that works - sometimes it doesn't. On occasions I've tried jumping on it and still got nowhere, and I reckon I've got more weight behind me than most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted June 4, 2006 Report Share Posted June 4, 2006 such modesty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted June 6, 2006 Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 Mmmm..Luckily I have a machine to do it now, but to be honest, I've always found them fairly easy.. Just used to put the wheel up on a kerb (or similar) and keep standing on the edge of the tyre..never took more than a couple of minutes to do.. It helps though if you make sure ALL the air is out of the tyre..ie, take the valve out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mik60ish Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Well I finally gave in today broke the seal on one side, but couldn't break the other so took it to my local tyre shop let them turn the tyre whilst there only cost $10 NZ but its now leaking from the spokes. Do I get some sealant to blow in there, or not to worry about it as the low pressures that we run just to check before a ride? and pump up to suit never had tubeless tyre on a trials bike before hence the post originally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Pull it apart, remove the little spacer thing on the valve stem that keeps the space for the rubber strip. Remove the sealing band and clean everything thoroughly. From here you will get differing opinions as to what to use, but lets say replace the rimband, some (like me) use tire mounting lubricant, some will say use grease, some will say to use Silicone lubricant, and some will say use something like a silicone sealant (RTV) like Sikaflex. Anyway, get the rimband back in fully in place. Carefully tighten your valve back in because you threw away that spacer. Remount the tire and you are on your way. This is outlined at www.rypusa.com in the manuals section. (except the throw the spacer away part) Having one that goes flat at random times (I think you will find it will not be a consistent / steady leak) is a maddening deal. I would fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock hopper Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 A drill press works great!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mik60ish Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 After phoning my dealer whom I bought the bike from, he told me a simple way to break the bead bit of 4"x2" 6" long under tyre lying flat the other end on the bottom shelf of my bench stand in the wheel and it pops of a treat turn wheel around same on the other side. Alan I removed rim tape put silicone on top of spoke nipples I also removed the valve put back together but its still leaking through about 8 spokes and the valve! So you are saying leave the spacer out? on valve. As I haved it all stripped down for another attempt tomorrow zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 (edited) I do not use the silicone. Did you use silicone grease or RTV type silicone? What I do is clean everything very well, then apply rubber lube, rubber glide, tire mounting lube, gaithers tire lube or super slick tire balls lubricant (some kind of made for the purpose tire / rubber lubricant) to the entire rim strip and then install it. Making sure it is nice and well seated. Yes, I remove the small spacer thing that keeps you from squishing the rim band too much. I believe that sometimes it keeps you from squishing it enough. With it out, you have to gently tighten your valve stem in as if you just keep tightening, you could destroy the rim band, but you can also hold it and give it a little extra cinch down. added on edit Here is the link to the RYP instructions. The peice I am calling a spacer is referred to there as a collar. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/rim_band_rep...ment_manual.pdf Edited June 8, 2006 by Alan Bechard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 (edited) Putting any sealent on your spokes really is not the way to go. This will simply split as the spokes are put under any tension, through riding or tightening of them. The whole idea of the band is to seal the air on the tyre side and prevent it getting to the spokes. As Alan say's, clean everything very well. Seat the band, what will have happend is that the band will not have equal tension all the way around. You need to feed/push the areas of the band that are under small amounts of tension towards the areas that are under larger amounts of tension. Make sense? Your aim is to have the band sat under the lip and be equal in tension in all areas. You can use sealant to seal over the top of the band if you like, or even wet assemble with it. Bear in mind though that if your band should still fail and it has been wet assembled you will need a new one. Hope this helps, stick with it, its a pain but it will be worth it! Edited June 8, 2006 by boofont Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorpa3 Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 I picked up an old bottle jack from a car boot sale for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perce Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 (edited) All these very sensible people using wierd & wonderful ways to knock a tyre off when most of them have the talent to knock up a bit of kit just like dabsters. One a mate of mine made earlier:- It needs so little pressure to work it my 6 year lad could knock a tyre off. Edited June 8, 2006 by PERCE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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