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About goudrons

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    Vertigo Combat Camo

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  1. Cant start up the bike

    Try unplugging the lanyard from the loom. One or two have had issues with them. Check the connection from the battery/capacitor to the loom, just follow the wire out of the airbox on the left hand side until you get to it. My connector failed completely and failed to fire, ended up having to chop the connector out, only found the fault by jiggling the connector. Although no one tells you, the 9v rechargeable battery needs to be in tip top condition to get a clean start and no battery lasts forever, so it's wise to buy another and a mains recharger if you're not planning on converting it to batteryless. Another tip learnt the hard way, don't store the bike for too long it with fuel in the tank, once the fuel goes stale it bungs up the fuel pump and modern fuel goes off very quickly.
  2. Beta Rev-3 270 rough running? Petrol Info?

    Beta's handbook states to run them on "super grade unleaded". They pink and knock on anything less than 97 ron. They are also quite fussy with the float height setting due to the angle of the carb, you might find some help on here to set it, though you should be able to find a handbook to download for it on the web somewhere, any Rev 3 book from 2002 to 2007 will do. (2000, 2001 were similar but certain parts like forks and airbox were different and 2008 had a different carb altogether) If someone has had it apart, did they put it back together properly? I'd check the timing at the very least.
  3. Best small van on a budget

    Fiat Doblo, but get the MPV version rather than the van. You'll get two bikes in it still if you flip the rear seats, but pay less road tax and insurance than the van version.
  4. TY 175 rebuild

    Feetupfun is correct, the standard VM22 has a flange, unlike the original SS with a spigot. The original VM22SS carb was some sort of special, one off jobby, even Mikuni know very little about it, I tried to find a new one myself a few years ago, but ended up doing the swap to a stock VM22 that was machined to fit. BJ Racing can supply a stock VM22 which has been machined to replace the SS as a kit. If I remember correctly, SS takes a very large main jet (240 rings a bell), the one in the machined stock was about half that, methinks. You might find a OKO kit for it at Mid Atlantic Trials or you could have a go at jetting one yourself. Though be careful if you do try this, even though the OKO is a copy (of a Keihin), there are ropey copies of the OKO's out there these days and none of the proper OKO's jet will fit. As you have probably read, a lot describe carb set up as being fussy or difficult, but what tends to happen is owners end up chasing a "better" set up. There's always a danger of tinkering and fiddling to see if you can make it better!
  5. Crankcase damage

    One will just drop in and the shift drum holds it in, though it won't be oil tight, just keeps some of the sh*t out. Best advice is, don't fix what ain't broke. If it's ok now, leave it and have some fun. Splitting the cases when you don't really need to (like crank rebuild, mains bearing or seals) will more likely cause a load of other issues. They aren't overly complicated, but they can bite back, I've seem plenty mullered by guerilla engineers. You can put far too much into one of these and to be truthful, you don't get much out. There are a few useful mods that help them a little, adding an inch to the swinging arm, modding the top yoke to move the bar clamps over the top of the yokes and dropping the forks down the clamps around an inch helps them steer a bit better as does moving the foot rests back and down a little. They don't really ride that great compared to most, if not all the competition of the day and they can swallow a lot of money quite easily that you'll not see back. But sometimes madness takes over and I once got hooked on one. Just don't ask what I spent, I prefer to try and forget!
  6. Crankcase damage

    It's already been mentioned it's a hole machined to hold the shift drum and should have a plastic cap inserted from inside, but most got damaged there as it's were the chain hits if it comes off the rear sprocket. So finding a good case is very hard! I remember buying up 6 or 7 complete cases to try and find a decent one when I did my refurb. The old trick was to jam a coin in there from the inside, any oil that spilled out lubed the chain! Just remember to top the gear oil up before use. A 2p piece fits perfectly. There's a weak point on the case at the other side too, around the post for the kick start return spring. Usually once the splines on the kick start shaft wear away, owners get a bit brutal with the kick starter, repeatedly smashing it around until either the spring breaks of more often, the post snaps off and rips a hole in the inner case. This can also crack and take out the lowest, rear most point of the case at that side too.
  7. Security screw on intake manifold

    It seems those screws are correct. The parts list describes 31.38010.000 x 3. M6x25 Screw t.c.c.e. and x 1. M6x20 Screw (and shows it top left out of the four) For 125-250-300 Apart from the different heads, one is 5mm shorter?? The 200 just gets 4 x 31.38010.000.
  8. Changing crank seals is a pretty major job and as already written, if you don't needed to, don't. Also, if you've never done them before, find out what's actually involved, the process sounds simple enough until you realise the crank is stuck on a main bearing or the crank isn't centred after you've rebuilt it! If you're going to go to the effort of splitting the engine, it's probably wise to do a complete engine overhaul. The obvious signs the seals are leaking is when it's a pig to start and won't idle properly when/if it does start (but they are signs of a lot of other issues as well) I don't know the history of your bike, but I've bought, ran and rebuilt lots of similar stuff, (a couple of these too) and I find it's always a good idea to know what state everything you already have is in and to start collecting parts for when things do give up, sooner rather than later as some parts get harder to find as the years roll on. In the meantime, enjoy it.
  9. Bleeding brakes

    Yes, a large syringe, say 100ml and a short piece of pipe to fit the nipple.
  10. been looking at 2005 beta 250 rev3

    It's difficult to price one, but you wouldn't want to pay big money for one, perhaps around a £1200 or so, plus or minus a couple of hundred depending on condition. They made the Rev3 from 2000 to 2008 with a few tweeks and updates over the years and they sold a lot, but even the last one's are getting a bit old now, though if it's cheap enough and well sorted, it could still give a lot of fun and you shouldn't have too many issues finding parts. I've had a couple myself and there isn't too much specific to worry about, perhaps the rear shock. You used to be able to get them serviced and rebuild, but I don't think that's viable any more, if it needs one it's an aftermarket one. Check it doesn't leak or squelch, which is a sign the bladder in it has split. The case inside the water pump have been known to rot out allowing coolant into the gearbox, not all do it, but there was a spate of them at one time. You really need to check it out, a used bike can easily need a hefty lump of money spent on it. Start with a visual check and add up what you think it may need. Check the tyres, not just for wear but they can rot and crack with age, the wheels spin free and true, chain and sprockets look good, plenty of meat on the brake pads (2mm min), steering and swinging arm bearing are smooth and tight, leaks from suspension, engine, carb, tank/tap etc, broken plastics and so on. This list should give you an idea if it's been cared for or not. Then move on to how it starts, runs and rides. The Mikuni VM round slide carb was never the most sophisticated, so they never run ultra crisp as a more modern bike might, if it's not set up properly it can bog down and leak up and down hills. (2008 came with a keihin flatslide, much better). It should start from cold on choke with a couple of keen kicks (not dozens) and come off the choke within a minute and idle fairly smoothly. It should rev up fairly cleanly and evenly without undue noises and settle quickly back to and even idle. Check the fan kicks in when fully warmed up. You really need to ride it and load the engine up and listen for knocks, bangs and rattles, though they can pink (ping? pre detonate) a bit if ran on normal 95 unleaded, they need a minimum of 98 octane. Clutches are known to a bit of a problem, they can drag fairly badly. There is a good guide in the Beta section to help, do it's not always a complete fix. It can feel like you just can't pull the clutch in far enough to disengage it. This can also cause a poor feel to the gear shifter or a very stubborn action when shifting (particularly into neutral) as the gearbox can always have some load on it because of the dragging plates, this and the drag can spoil the experience of an otherwise good bike.
  11. This may be the problem. There needs to be around 2mm free play between the lever and master cylinder piston. As everything heats up, the fluid expands and because the master cylinder is adjusted right up, the fluid can't flow back into the ressie. So the clutch becomes disengaged all the time. The master cylinders piston needs to be able to return fully back. Check the adjustable pin on the clutch lever that pushes again the master cylinder piston. Back it off until there is 2mm of movement before the pin actuates the piston. Check all the other master cylinders also have this 2mm free play.
  12. Number Boards

    Clicky linky above! (I though it would quote the compete thread)
  13. Number Boards

  14. Clutch Hand Issues

    I suffer from this and it always happens when I change bikes. Until I get the bar height right, my left hand and wrist almost cripple me. It's often due to the bars being just too low and that throws my weight too much forward and down my arms/wrists. Throw in the all the clutch action and my left hand and wrist soon start to complain. It usually doesn't take much of a rise of the bars to sort it out, 4 or 5mm rise usually works for me. There are some easy things you can do to strengthen your wrists. Those grip things won't work much on the wrists, though they do work the fingers. You need one of those rubber bands (that physio's use), available in sports and fitness shops, start with a low resistance band first. Hold your hand/wrist flat on a desk/table, wrap the band around your fingers and hold the ends of the band in your other hand. Work your hand/fingers side to side (not up and down), keeping your arm still while you pull against the resistance of the band. You can swap it around, turn the band and work the wrist the other way, though it's best to tie up the ends on something this way. Do around three sets of ten a day, or until it just starts to ache a little (not a lot) you'll feel it pull and work the part of the wrist that causes your issue. It'll work and strengthen those tendons and muscles right in the lower forearm/wrist, my physio taught me this and he rides downhill mountain bikes, works a treat!
  15. TXT 270 cuts out when choke is push in

    It's common for a blocked pilot jet if they'll start and run on choke, but stall without choke. Though small air leaks can cause the same sort of symptoms but you usually have difficulty starting and a bouncing or screaming idle when they do start. Unscrew the pilot (smallest jet), hold it up to the light and peer through it, you should see if it's blocked. Modern fuel goes stale very quickly and can leave a green gunk in the float bowl which tends to gum everything up, particularly the pilot jet and the float bowls inlet valve and seat. (when the inlet valve gums up they can stick open and pour fuel out of the carb everywhere if you're lucky, if you're not, raw fuel will pour right through the carb and into the crankcase) Best to always drain the float bowl if leaving the bike for more than a week. (drain means undo the bottom of the float bowl, not turn off the fuel and run until it runs dry!)