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About goudrons

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    Vertigo Combat Camo

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  1. It's already been mentioned, but car derived vans are excellent trials bike transport that double up as family hacks. The vans they are based on usually attract high insurance premiums, even though you're using them for SDP. It's probably due to the break in risk. Some of these small vans can also carry a higher VED than the car versions. Check the logbook to see if it's classed as a car. (M1 methinks) With a van derived car, you're more likely to find petrol versions if you don't want to get clobbered with whatever the Govenment has up their sleeve for diesel owners in the near future. You can find the odd petrol Doblo (1.4 not the 1.2, it's dog slow), Berlingo and Partner MPV's dotted about for reasonable money and they've usually had an easier life than an ex Royal Mail or BT van version.
  2. When they were originally released, Vertigo advise was 40ml to 5 litres of petrol. It seems that got altered to 25ml to 5 litres of petrol not long after. That means some early owners got printouts advising 40ml and later owners got them stating 25ml. I have a club mate with a bike a little older than mine came with the 40ml recommendation, mine 25ml. I've ran mine since new in July 2016 with the 25ml mix and it's fine. Though I've not used the free bottle of Strawberry scented oil that came with it, don't want to spend all day with my belly rumbling! I've only ever used one brand of 2 stroke and always bought their synthetic offering, It's never given me any issues and I don't plan on that changing. BTW, some of the newer owners may discover that the plug soots up (even on 25ml) after a few hours. The BPMR6A is a little too cool for them, a BPMR4A has a little more of the tip protruding, runs a little hot and so far seems to work better.
  3. Does pulling the clutch in make a difference to the noise? It's not uncommon for clutches to chatter or rattle.
  4. There's no easy answer to your questions as what might work on one bike doesn't mean it'll work on another. Carb tuning can be a little tricky and it's tempting to keep at it, chasing something better when perhaps you're already there! Warm the engine up and turn the idle speed up ever so slightly. Start with your mixture screw at 1 and 1/2 turns out as your base setting and adjust in 1/4 turns. As you alter it too rich the engine will sound dull and fluffy, too lean and the revs will "hunt" ie, the idle will rise and fall unevenly. Once you have it idling smoothly (as possible), reset the idle back to normal. The needle setting effects the way the fueling acts as the throttle opens and the fueling changes from pilot circuit to main jet. Start on the middle groove. You'll need to ride the bike around and see how it acts on slow and sudden throttle openings. Lifting the needle up (low clip) with cause a little more fuel to pass = richer, lower the needle (high clip) less = leaner. (It's been a while, but I seem to remember mine had the needle lifted quite high to over come a stutter on sudden throttle opens). Float height can also cause rich and lean running, too low and it can lean out, too high and it can flood up as can the angle the carb is fitted, particularly up and down hills. But like I wrote, it all depends on the bike and what parts are fitted, air filters and exhausts can effect setting as can altitude . Then there's Cubs that are fitted with R cams, they just don't tend to idle too well to start with!
  5. I've never found my 300 Combat Camo to be anything other than torquey. It's never felt too OTT or some sort of missile that scares or is difficult to control, but mine is a 2016. It just seems to me the engine is "weighted" perfectly with a feeling the power delivery is solid rather than peaky. I came from a 2014 Evo 300 and that certainly did need a flywheel weight to calm the mid throttle "hit" it seemed to suffer from. Although two different weight flywheel weights are available from Vertigo, I just never felt the need for one. There's a good chance the 300 Camo wasn't quite stock if it was a customers bike you tried. I know of one customer who turned up at a test day with their own bike late last year and they had already altered the sprockets and fitted a slow action throttle, though for the life of me I don't know why!
  6. Without doubt the Fantic 200. The forward kick "Pro's" are getting hard to come by, but the rear kick Minarelli engined "Trial" ones are still quite plentyful. Sweet engine and a decent handling frame that worked well straight from the off. You also won't loose a penny on one, they only seem to go up in price!
  7. I bought one of these years ago, it was just a few boxes of parts. Same thing happened, someone took it apart due to water and oil mixing in the gearbox. All I could find was a rough, photocopied exploded parts diagram from John Lampkins to help me, it was enough, but it was hard to read! Turned out there's a couple of small seals (and bearings) on the waterpump shaft that are prone to leaking. I seem to remember the shaft runs right through the gearbox, it's driven from the left side, but the pump is on the right with the seals/bearings between the cases. I also seem to think the head seals with two rubber O rings, worth checking these are ok along with the grooves they sit in if there's a chance it's over heated. Not a bad bike for it's time, but the alloy frame isn't great, they were prone to the swinging arm cracking, just around the voids where the bearings/bushes fit.
  8. Just to add to b40rt's post, you can also get British Army Goretex Boot Liners from the same sort of sellers for very little outlay. Just pop 'em on over your normal socks before putting your boots, you'll never have wet again.`
  9. If you live in the EU, it worth ploughing through the consultation document. The ramifcations don't just effect the users of the types of vehicles outlined, (and yes, bumper cars are in scope) but in fact impacts on all motor insurance policies and their costs. Buy any motor insurance and you pay into a pot that the Motor Insurers Bureau uses to settle certain claims (untracable or uninsured types). I'm certain other EU countries have similar schemes as they all follow the same EU directives. This pot will need to be considerable enlarged to encompass all the same types of claims from the "newly to scope" vehicle list. It'll increase every motor premium for every type of vehicle. Also, don't pin your hopes on Brexit, the UK still has to comply until it's out of the EU and then some. The hope is they put a review date (sunset) on legislation so it can be backtracked in future, but you can't see it being on the top of anyones list to unwrap once the UK has left!
  10. It's been a while since I had a Rev3 but I seem to rememeber the mount for the chain tensioner mount did stick out awkwardly. Though I don't remember it catching the tyre, it did end up looking like it did by all the scuffs and wear on the pivot head. I guess it's possible the rim isn't as true as it once was or your tyre isn't sitting on the rim properly. There's no need to seal the spokes using silicone sealer or the likes of, it can cause the rim to rot as there's something in the sealers hardener that reacts with alloy. Beta UK wrote an SSDT guide about using a sealer (Sikaflex) around the band to rim edges, but there's just no real need if it's done properly. Remove the rim band and valve, clean up the flakey inner rim, including the grooves the edges of the band fit in. Then tighten the spokes up. There are guides around the internet that will help you true it up. I manage it with just a vice to trap the spindle in and a pointer against the rim as a gauge or you could ask at you local bike/cycle shop. Once you're happy with it, fit a new band/valve. Jitsie do a band with the valve moulded to it where the standard Beta one the valve is bolted through. I found the best way to fit these is to lube up the rim and band well, then it just snaps into place in a U position very easily. They just won't sit straight if they cannot slip and slide into place and you end up with parts of the band gripping and bunching, if the band sits humped up in the middle anywhere, it just won't seal properly. As I wrote before, tubeless tyre removal and refitting can be pain if you don't have the right tools and knowhow. First you need to break the old tyre bead off the rim. It's possible to do this with a spade in the garden. Lay out the wheel on the soft grass and (carefully) push the spade down the edge of the rim against the tyre to push the tyre off the bead inwards. Once a small part pushes off, the rest follows quite easily. Decent tyre levers will now get the tyre off the rim and new one back on with plenty of soap or talcum powder. Without the abilty to apply a lot of air pressure very quickly like they do in a tyre shop, you'll not get the tyre to inflate and "pop" out on the rim. (it seems I'm not allowed to name certain companies on here, but Yoo & Mee know better!) make a stretchy foam ring that you lude up and squeeze in down one side of the tyre/rim. This pushes the tyre over the valve and seals the other side while you pump it up. It will gradually squeeze out (if you've lubed it enough) as you pump. Some have managed the same job by fitting a racket strap around the tyre, I've never tried it myself. Once on and the ring has squeezed out, keep pumping! They require quite a lot of pressure before the bead "pops" on the rim properly, so check it's "popped" out all the way around otherwise you end up with a twist in part of the tyre. It's not uncommon for it to take 40+ psi before is seats properly. A quick spray of soapy water around the rim and spoke nipples will show how good a job you've done (or haven't)
  11. I wouldn't read too much into what plastics are fitted. 2001 to 2004, they have silver forks stantions. 2005 onwards they were black. 2000 they were upside down. I think they also had a red rear shock in 2004. 2003 and 2005 they were grey/silver (ish). Then again, those might have been swapped at some point too!
  12. As you can probably guess, everyone has an opinion on which tyres to run and some others don't get much of a choice as only Michelin seem to fit later Morad flange type rims properly without deflating on impact. (Flange rims have spokes through a flange machined on the rim not through the rim it's self). If your Rev3 is still on the standard rim, (Morad with the spokes through the rim) you need a tubeless tyre on the rear (fronts are all with tube) and are not really limited to which brand as all seem to fit well. Michelins and IRC TR-11's seem to be the most popular along with the 803gp's. I would take my pick out of these and as already written, shop around. There are, or was a couple of budget trials tyres that are best avoided and Pirelli make the MT43's, these are more road bias tyres and I've never got one to work properly in the mud! If you haven't fitted a tubeless rear before you might be best considering having the shop fit it for you (or ask on here how it's done) You also might want to get the spokes nipped up and fit a new rubber band/valve at the same time as slack spokes can cause these rims to leak.
  13. I've yo-yoed between the two for years like I think a lot of club riders do or have. It's usually a bit of boredom that causes the switch, maybe some odd Twinshock or Pre 65 will catch my eye for a while. I tend to find a good technique helps get a twinshock or Pre 65 around, but with a modern they can tend to flatter a newer rider. You don't find yourself steaming down a steep, slippy hill with useless wet, cable operated drum brakes on a modern, but knowing how to scrub off that speed can also work for you on a modern bike. Again a modern will climb stuff and all you are really doing is hanging on, with a twinshock a lot more planning, thought and effort is usually needed before you even think about pointing the bike in that direction. I'm not saying a modern bike will do it all for a new rider, but they can compensate a little for a lack effort, planning and thought. Whichever you choose, concentrate on technique and it'll serve you well in both worlds.
  14. IMAG0264

    From the album Vertigo