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About goudrons

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    Vertigo Combat Camo

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  1. Just to add to b40rt's post, you can also get British Army Goretex Boot Liners from the same sort of sellers for very little outlay. Just pop 'em on over your normal socks before putting your boots, you'll never have wet again.`
  2. If you live in the EU, it worth ploughing through the consultation document. The ramifcations don't just effect the users of the types of vehicles outlined, (and yes, bumper cars are in scope) but in fact impacts on all motor insurance policies and their costs. Buy any motor insurance and you pay into a pot that the Motor Insurers Bureau uses to settle certain claims (untracable or uninsured types). I'm certain other EU countries have similar schemes as they all follow the same EU directives. This pot will need to be considerable enlarged to encompass all the same types of claims from the "newly to scope" vehicle list. It'll increase every motor premium for every type of vehicle. Also, don't pin your hopes on Brexit, the UK still has to comply until it's out of the EU and then some. The hope is they put a review date (sunset) on legislation so it can be backtracked in future, but you can't see it being on the top of anyones list to unwrap once the UK has left!
  3. It's been a while since I had a Rev3 but I seem to rememeber the mount for the chain tensioner mount did stick out awkwardly. Though I don't remember it catching the tyre, it did end up looking like it did by all the scuffs and wear on the pivot head. I guess it's possible the rim isn't as true as it once was or your tyre isn't sitting on the rim properly. There's no need to seal the spokes using silicone sealer or the likes of, it can cause the rim to rot as there's something in the sealers hardener that reacts with alloy. Beta UK wrote an SSDT guide about using a sealer (Sikaflex) around the band to rim edges, but there's just no real need if it's done properly. Remove the rim band and valve, clean up the flakey inner rim, including the grooves the edges of the band fit in. Then tighten the spokes up. There are guides around the internet that will help you true it up. I manage it with just a vice to trap the spindle in and a pointer against the rim as a gauge or you could ask at you local bike/cycle shop. Once you're happy with it, fit a new band/valve. Jitsie do a band with the valve moulded to it where the standard Beta one the valve is bolted through. I found the best way to fit these is to lube up the rim and band well, then it just snaps into place in a U position very easily. They just won't sit straight if they cannot slip and slide into place and you end up with parts of the band gripping and bunching, if the band sits humped up in the middle anywhere, it just won't seal properly. As I wrote before, tubeless tyre removal and refitting can be pain if you don't have the right tools and knowhow. First you need to break the old tyre bead off the rim. It's possible to do this with a spade in the garden. Lay out the wheel on the soft grass and (carefully) push the spade down the edge of the rim against the tyre to push the tyre off the bead inwards. Once a small part pushes off, the rest follows quite easily. Decent tyre levers will now get the tyre off the rim and new one back on with plenty of soap or talcum powder. Without the abilty to apply a lot of air pressure very quickly like they do in a tyre shop, you'll not get the tyre to inflate and "pop" out on the rim. (it seems I'm not allowed to name certain companies on here, but Yoo & Mee know better!) make a stretchy foam ring that you lude up and squeeze in down one side of the tyre/rim. This pushes the tyre over the valve and seals the other side while you pump it up. It will gradually squeeze out (if you've lubed it enough) as you pump. Some have managed the same job by fitting a racket strap around the tyre, I've never tried it myself. Once on and the ring has squeezed out, keep pumping! They require quite a lot of pressure before the bead "pops" on the rim properly, so check it's "popped" out all the way around otherwise you end up with a twist in part of the tyre. It's not uncommon for it to take 40+ psi before is seats properly. A quick spray of soapy water around the rim and spoke nipples will show how good a job you've done (or haven't)
  4. I wouldn't read too much into what plastics are fitted. 2001 to 2004, they have silver forks stantions. 2005 onwards they were black. 2000 they were upside down. I think they also had a red rear shock in 2004. 2003 and 2005 they were grey/silver (ish). Then again, those might have been swapped at some point too!
  5. As you can probably guess, everyone has an opinion on which tyres to run and some others don't get much of a choice as only Michelin seem to fit later Morad flange type rims properly without deflating on impact. (Flange rims have spokes through a flange machined on the rim not through the rim it's self). If your Rev3 is still on the standard rim, (Morad with the spokes through the rim) you need a tubeless tyre on the rear (fronts are all with tube) and are not really limited to which brand as all seem to fit well. Michelins and IRC TR-11's seem to be the most popular along with the 803gp's. I would take my pick out of these and as already written, shop around. There are, or was a couple of budget trials tyres that are best avoided and Pirelli make the MT43's, these are more road bias tyres and I've never got one to work properly in the mud! If you haven't fitted a tubeless rear before you might be best considering having the shop fit it for you (or ask on here how it's done) You also might want to get the spokes nipped up and fit a new rubber band/valve at the same time as slack spokes can cause these rims to leak.
  6. I've yo-yoed between the two for years like I think a lot of club riders do or have. It's usually a bit of boredom that causes the switch, maybe some odd Twinshock or Pre 65 will catch my eye for a while. I tend to find a good technique helps get a twinshock or Pre 65 around, but with a modern they can tend to flatter a newer rider. You don't find yourself steaming down a steep, slippy hill with useless wet, cable operated drum brakes on a modern, but knowing how to scrub off that speed can also work for you on a modern bike. Again a modern will climb stuff and all you are really doing is hanging on, with a twinshock a lot more planning, thought and effort is usually needed before you even think about pointing the bike in that direction. I'm not saying a modern bike will do it all for a new rider, but they can compensate a little for a lack effort, planning and thought. Whichever you choose, concentrate on technique and it'll serve you well in both worlds.
  7. IMAG0264

    From the album Vertigo

  8. IMAG0262

    From the album Vertigo

  9. The map button and two LEDs are just held in place with silicone, they just pop out of the original mount. I made a bracket out of an right angled piece of plastic (made from the edge of an old plastic box), drilled out holes along the top for the button and LEDs. I think the button is around 11 or 12mm and the LED's 4mm. I hot glued them in to the new bracket from underneath and used a couple of small, counter sunk bolts and nuts to bolt it to the back of a normal number board, close to the top edge. Used a black number board, black plastic and black counter sunk bolts, so it all looks rather neat. (well it would have if I managed to get the bolt head level!) The map button's body isn't totally round, there are a couple of lugs either side to stop it rotating in the hole, just needed to carefully file out two slots in the hole to make it fit flush.
  10. I too think Lineaway might be on to it. The ring grooves on the piston have a peg in each groove, this fits the gaps in the rings. These pegs are usually offset by about a 3rd but miss the transfer ports in the liner. Often after a rebore/recoat, with a new piston and rings it can be a bit tight and fiddly to fit the barrel over the piston with the piston fitted to the conrod as it flops around, so it might be worth trying to fit the piston to the barrel first, like this: Fit the rings to the piston (correctly with the pegs and the ring gaps lining up). Fit one circlip to one end of the wrist pin hole and paint the piston with 2 stroke oil. With the barrel loose on the bench, turn it upside down and align the piston square to the liner and start to feed it in. (the right away around, usually the piston crown is marked, this mark goes to the front/exhaust) The liners bottom edge should be chamfered so helps to squeeze the rings as it goes in, use your finger nails to help squeeze as you push. Don't twist, just push. Once the rings are in, the bottom of the piston should still be hanging out with enough clearance for the wrist pin hole. Fit the base gasket and stuff clean rags or paper in the crankcase mouth to hold the conrod vertical. Fit the small end bearing to the con rod and lower the piston/barrel over it and fit the wirst pin (from the side without the circlip in). Carefully fit the second circlip and remove the paper/rags Now carefully push the barrel down. Loosely tighten the barrel down and slowly turn the engine over with the flywheel to see if it all spins correctly before tightening it all up. It's worth lightly greasing the base gasket or both if you are using two. This often saves them sticking and ripping apart if you need to strip is down again later.
  11. Is the spindle spaced out properly? If the spindle/fork bottoms are pinched or bushed out too far they'll tighten up and not give the right action.
  12. You are best measuring the piston and giving John Cane at TY Trials a ring. I think there are a few 72mm ish pistons about in Blaster and DT230 conversions that will fit certain 200 conversions, but if the liner has worn, there isn't usually enough of it to rebore, so you might have to reline it (again, John may help). I've ran a couple of carbs with good results, an OKO and a new Mikuni (see B&J Racings webpage), but the Mikuni needed converting from flange to a stub. I've tried a few different airbox arrangements too with various results, but it's difficult to get a straight carb to airbox connection due to the frame and you'll need to re jet the carb. The simplist thing to do is open up the top of the standard box. Remove the metal flap in the lower airbox mouth and cut triangles out of the both sides of the top. I don't want to put you off but it's worth mentioning, you can and probably will throw a lot of money at these and the returns aren't always great. They are revy little engines, but they don't develop the torque you often need on a muddy winters day!
  13. With it running with choke and not without you'd best start with pilot jet. If this is blocked it won't idle unless the choke is pulled on. Unscrew the smaller brass jet and hold it up to the light, if you can't see a small round hole in the light, it's blocked. Next check the oil feed union on the carb (small pipe stub right side of carb, forward of slide) Originally they came fitted with an autolube system to supply two stroke oil to the engine without the need to premix, nearly all these days have had the pump removed and drive to the pump blocked up inside the front part of the right hand crank case cover. This stub on the carb should, if the autolube system has been removed, be blanked/blocked up or it'll draw in air. There should be two other, similar pipe connectors on the carb, one to balance the air in the float bowl and one to balance the air in the carb body, it's often normal to use the same tube looped around to each connector, but doing this it needs a hole or split in it somewhere to allow air to enter/exit. If you're still having issues, hard to start, wet plug, bad running without choke and are sure the spark is timed correctly, I'd say you have an air leak somewhere. This could be either the crankseals, perished inlet manifold or it's gaskets or head/base gaskets.
  14. I think Beta had an issue with some selector mechanisms around this year. Some had trouble with a rivet not pressed in properly into the selector arm, which worked loose and popped out. You might find more info by searching Beta selector fault or rivet. To get at the selector arm the clutch and clutch basket need to come out, then it should just pull free.