Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


1 Follower

About goudrons

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Vertigo Combat Camo

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  1. Changing crank seals is a pretty major job and as already written, if you don't needed to, don't. Also, if you've never done them before, find out what's actually involved, the process sounds simple enough until you realise the crank is stuck on a main bearing or the crank isn't centred after you've rebuilt it! If you're going to go to the effort of splitting the engine, it's probably wise to do a complete engine overhaul. The obvious signs the seals are leaking is when it's a pig to start and won't idle properly when/if it does start (but they are signs of a lot of other issues as well) I don't know the history of your bike, but I've bought, ran and rebuilt lots of similar stuff, (a couple of these too) and I find it's always a good idea to know what state everything you already have is in and to start collecting parts for when things do give up, sooner rather than later as some parts get harder to find as the years roll on. In the meantime, enjoy it.
  2. Yes, a large syringe, say 100ml and a short piece of pipe to fit the nipple.
  3. It's difficult to price one, but you wouldn't want to pay big money for one, perhaps around a £1200 or so, plus or minus a couple of hundred depending on condition. They made the Rev3 from 2000 to 2008 with a few tweeks and updates over the years and they sold a lot, but even the last one's are getting a bit old now, though if it's cheap enough and well sorted, it could still give a lot of fun and you shouldn't have too many issues finding parts. I've had a couple myself and there isn't too much specific to worry about, perhaps the rear shock. You used to be able to get them serviced and rebuild, but I don't think that's viable any more, if it needs one it's an aftermarket one. Check it doesn't leak or squelch, which is a sign the bladder in it has split. The case inside the water pump have been known to rot out allowing coolant into the gearbox, not all do it, but there was a spate of them at one time. You really need to check it out, a used bike can easily need a hefty lump of money spent on it. Start with a visual check and add up what you think it may need. Check the tyres, not just for wear but they can rot and crack with age, the wheels spin free and true, chain and sprockets look good, plenty of meat on the brake pads (2mm min), steering and swinging arm bearing are smooth and tight, leaks from suspension, engine, carb, tank/tap etc, broken plastics and so on. This list should give you an idea if it's been cared for or not. Then move on to how it starts, runs and rides. The Mikuni VM round slide carb was never the most sophisticated, so they never run ultra crisp as a more modern bike might, if it's not set up properly it can bog down and leak up and down hills. (2008 came with a keihin flatslide, much better). It should start from cold on choke with a couple of keen kicks (not dozens) and come off the choke within a minute and idle fairly smoothly. It should rev up fairly cleanly and evenly without undue noises and settle quickly back to and even idle. Check the fan kicks in when fully warmed up. You really need to ride it and load the engine up and listen for knocks, bangs and rattles, though they can pink (ping? pre detonate) a bit if ran on normal 95 unleaded, they need a minimum of 98 octane. Clutches are known to a bit of a problem, they can drag fairly badly. There is a good guide in the Beta section to help, do it's not always a complete fix. It can feel like you just can't pull the clutch in far enough to disengage it. This can also cause a poor feel to the gear shifter or a very stubborn action when shifting (particularly into neutral) as the gearbox can always have some load on it because of the dragging plates, this and the drag can spoil the experience of an otherwise good bike.
  4. This may be the problem. There needs to be around 2mm free play between the lever and master cylinder piston. As everything heats up, the fluid expands and because the master cylinder is adjusted right up, the fluid can't flow back into the ressie. So the clutch becomes disengaged all the time. The master cylinders piston needs to be able to return fully back. Check the adjustable pin on the clutch lever that pushes again the master cylinder piston. Back it off until there is 2mm of movement before the pin actuates the piston. Check all the other master cylinders also have this 2mm free play.
  5. Clicky linky above! (I though it would quote the compete thread)
  6. I suffer from this and it always happens when I change bikes. Until I get the bar height right, my left hand and wrist almost cripple me. It's often due to the bars being just too low and that throws my weight too much forward and down my arms/wrists. Throw in the all the clutch action and my left hand and wrist soon start to complain. It usually doesn't take much of a rise of the bars to sort it out, 4 or 5mm rise usually works for me. There are some easy things you can do to strengthen your wrists. Those grip things won't work much on the wrists, though they do work the fingers. You need one of those rubber bands (that physio's use), available in sports and fitness shops, start with a low resistance band first. Hold your hand/wrist flat on a desk/table, wrap the band around your fingers and hold the ends of the band in your other hand. Work your hand/fingers side to side (not up and down), keeping your arm still while you pull against the resistance of the band. You can swap it around, turn the band and work the wrist the other way, though it's best to tie up the ends on something this way. Do around three sets of ten a day, or until it just starts to ache a little (not a lot) you'll feel it pull and work the part of the wrist that causes your issue. It'll work and strengthen those tendons and muscles right in the lower forearm/wrist, my physio taught me this and he rides downhill mountain bikes, works a treat!
  7. It's common for a blocked pilot jet if they'll start and run on choke, but stall without choke. Though small air leaks can cause the same sort of symptoms but you usually have difficulty starting and a bouncing or screaming idle when they do start. Unscrew the pilot (smallest jet), hold it up to the light and peer through it, you should see if it's blocked. Modern fuel goes stale very quickly and can leave a green gunk in the float bowl which tends to gum everything up, particularly the pilot jet and the float bowls inlet valve and seat. (when the inlet valve gums up they can stick open and pour fuel out of the carb everywhere if you're lucky, if you're not, raw fuel will pour right through the carb and into the crankcase) Best to always drain the float bowl if leaving the bike for more than a week. (drain means undo the bottom of the float bowl, not turn off the fuel and run until it runs dry!)
  8. Check the carb again, sounds like the pilot jet is blocked.
  9. It's already been mentioned, but car derived vans are excellent trials bike transport that double up as family hacks. The vans they are based on usually attract high insurance premiums, even though you're using them for SDP. It's probably due to the break in risk. Some of these small vans can also carry a higher VED than the car versions. Check the logbook to see if it's classed as a car. (M1 methinks) With a van derived car, you're more likely to find petrol versions if you don't want to get clobbered with whatever the Govenment has up their sleeve for diesel owners in the near future. You can find the odd petrol Doblo (1.4 not the 1.2, it's dog slow), Berlingo and Partner MPV's dotted about for reasonable money and they've usually had an easier life than an ex Royal Mail or BT van version.
  10. When they were originally released, Vertigo advise was 40ml to 5 litres of petrol. It seems that got altered to 25ml to 5 litres of petrol not long after. That means some early owners got printouts advising 40ml and later owners got them stating 25ml. I have a club mate with a bike a little older than mine came with the 40ml recommendation, mine 25ml. I've ran mine since new in July 2016 with the 25ml mix and it's fine. Though I've not used the free bottle of Strawberry scented oil that came with it, don't want to spend all day with my belly rumbling! I've only ever used one brand of 2 stroke and always bought their synthetic offering, It's never given me any issues and I don't plan on that changing. BTW, some of the newer owners may discover that the plug soots up (even on 25ml) after a few hours. The BPMR6A is a little too cool for them, a BPMR4A has a little more of the tip protruding, runs a little hot and so far seems to work better.
  11. Does pulling the clutch in make a difference to the noise? It's not uncommon for clutches to chatter or rattle.
  12. There's no easy answer to your questions as what might work on one bike doesn't mean it'll work on another. Carb tuning can be a little tricky and it's tempting to keep at it, chasing something better when perhaps you're already there! Warm the engine up and turn the idle speed up ever so slightly. Start with your mixture screw at 1 and 1/2 turns out as your base setting and adjust in 1/4 turns. As you alter it too rich the engine will sound dull and fluffy, too lean and the revs will "hunt" ie, the idle will rise and fall unevenly. Once you have it idling smoothly (as possible), reset the idle back to normal. The needle setting effects the way the fueling acts as the throttle opens and the fueling changes from pilot circuit to main jet. Start on the middle groove. You'll need to ride the bike around and see how it acts on slow and sudden throttle openings. Lifting the needle up (low clip) with cause a little more fuel to pass = richer, lower the needle (high clip) less = leaner. (It's been a while, but I seem to remember mine had the needle lifted quite high to over come a stutter on sudden throttle opens). Float height can also cause rich and lean running, too low and it can lean out, too high and it can flood up as can the angle the carb is fitted, particularly up and down hills. But like I wrote, it all depends on the bike and what parts are fitted, air filters and exhausts can effect setting as can altitude . Then there's Cubs that are fitted with R cams, they just don't tend to idle too well to start with!
  13. I've never found my 300 Combat Camo to be anything other than torquey. It's never felt too OTT or some sort of missile that scares or is difficult to control, but mine is a 2016. It just seems to me the engine is "weighted" perfectly with a feeling the power delivery is solid rather than peaky. I came from a 2014 Evo 300 and that certainly did need a flywheel weight to calm the mid throttle "hit" it seemed to suffer from. Although two different weight flywheel weights are available from Vertigo, I just never felt the need for one. There's a good chance the 300 Camo wasn't quite stock if it was a customers bike you tried. I know of one customer who turned up at a test day with their own bike late last year and they had already altered the sprockets and fitted a slow action throttle, though for the life of me I don't know why!
  14. Without doubt the Fantic 200. The forward kick "Pro's" are getting hard to come by, but the rear kick Minarelli engined "Trial" ones are still quite plentyful. Sweet engine and a decent handling frame that worked well straight from the off. You also won't loose a penny on one, they only seem to go up in price!