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How lucky we are to have the internet and people who know how to use it. konrad is the man for the job every time. Hope it does the job.

Searching Motoplat 9635406, I found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255086002289

I live in uk it’s a gas gas 250 number on engine is 327 and motor plat cdi 9635406 I believe it’s a 93 model could I put a different cdi unit on this or have I got to use the same one

@nhuskys Brilliant. Thanks , that's what I have been waiting for.

I enlarged the steering stem hole in a spare top triple clamp and made an eccentric to fit in the hole to move the top triple clamp forwards slightly. I did not aim for parallel. I can't remember the concentric dimension for the eccentric piece offhand but there is still some angular offset. From memory, the goal was to move the front wheel axle rearwards by 5mm. To get the fork tube holes to line up again, I twisted the bottom triple clamp then twisted the upper triple clamp. What I wanted was for my KT250 to steer like a TY250 and it now does exactly that.

Ah OK. I guess it's a bit different here where there are lots of derelict TY250s lying around. Plenty of TY250 parts in the US as well.

Feetupfun, The goal was to have a more stable 34mm front end, less deflection in rock beds that I have noticed with the 28mm on the 175

All information is needed , actual bike model etc what is it Ducati system or Motoplat ?.Where are you USA , UK etc ?

Hi Feetup, how did you modify the trees to get paralel offset ?

Looking for a cdi module as I broke the pins off mine I try was motorplat the last numbers were 406 bike used to run but now it’s not running could do with some help

I'm glad you mentioned using the KT triple clamps as well as the forks. Did you realise that KT triple clamps are a lot further apart than TY triple clamps, so there will probably be some work involved with fitting the KT triple clamps into a TY frame. I haven't tried this to know what's required but at least the angular offsets of the KT fork tube holes will be incorrect if the KT triple clamps are moved closer together. The other stumbling block there is that the TY steering stem may not fit the stem holes in the KT triple clamps. As for attaching the TY brake link, it would be pretty easy to make a clamp that fits around the left side KT fork bottom for the TY brake link to attach to. No idea what spacers might be needed for TY wheel in KT forks with KT triple clamps. If you have a TY wheel or TY forks in their triple clamps and some KT forks in their triple clamps, you can measure them up and compare. Also have a think about where the KT fork tubes will end up at full lock relative to the TY fuel tank. Unless you limit the steering angle, I suspect they might hit the TY tank. This is because the KT triple clamps are designed for leading axle forks which usually positions the fork tubes more rearwards when straight ahead and closer to the midline of the bike at full lock, compared with (in-line axle forks) TY triple clamps. For what it's worth, the standard angular offset for both sets of triple clamps is the same (1.5 degrees). I modified my KT triple clamps to reduce the angular offset to achieve the same trail dimension as a TY (to make my KT steer better). You could do something similar to a set of TY triple clamps to achieve the same trail as a KT250 with a lot less trouble than doing a front end swap. However, I'm only guessing that this is what you are trying to achieve. What are you trying to achieve?

I am seeking a lighting and electrical wiring kit stripped from any of the ST250 through 300 series. Lights, taillights, horn, regulators wiring harness all welcome. I'll pay top dollar in the USA. Don't ask why....I just need it to get licensed...then off it comes again. Lemme know Phil

FANTASTIC web site link on the OSSA. Simply FANTASTIC!

Not suggesting 2mm more base gasket. Recommending 2mm (or any other value your experiments show to be helpful) total squish clearance. The squish may already be on the order of 1.2mm. Yes, it will change the port timing, but I have not seen that small change cause negative side effects. If anything, it makes the bike slightly easier to kick. It's also easily reversible. The Sherco uses o-ring seals for the head/cylinder interface, which I would leave alone. Machining the head is another, less reversible, route. Increasing the combustion chamber's “blend radius” is another way to soften the hit. I touch on that here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/heads Also, a bit on reeds here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/reed-valves I'm going to retract my G2 idea based on RonH's experience. I now see it's intended to be a blend of the slow and fast rates. Whereas Ron's idea for a “slower than slow” tube is more what you need.

I like your suggestion with the cam. Thank you for your help.

Adding 2mm to base gaskets will also change the port timing slightly, whereas increasing the head gasket will not. Is it your recommendation to lower compression AND change port timing by using a base gasket, or just to lower compression by using a head gasket?

Two cheap, easy, reversible changes: Retard ignition timing. Increase squish clearance to ~2mm via additional base gaskets. Additionally, if you are good with the clutch, a flywheel weigh can help slow things down. A company called G2 makes a cammed throttle tube called the Tamer: https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/g2-trials-throttle-tube-progressive-rate-sherco/

www.sherco.com manuals 2012series.

Hey pmcand, I had the exact same problem with my bike. I did three things to help calm my 2023 Gasgas down. 1st - I installed a flywheel weight (it helped some) 2nd - I installed a 1mm head spacer to lower the compression. (It helped a little more, it’s much easier to start too) 3rd - I modified the throttle tube. (This helped a great deal) Regarding the throttle tube, there is a cam where the cable runs around the end of the tube. Both fast and slow throttles have them. I had tried a slow throttle but the change was very minimal so I bought an aluminum one (slow again) from G2 Ergonomics. It also produced no noticeable change that would work for me. I lived with it for two years until I had the idea of modifying the tube. I simply removed the throttle tube and used a Dremel to ease the cam to a more linear pull. It took me about five minutes to grind it down. I have a photo showing how I modified it in the link below. I put a dashed line in to show what material to remove with a before and after shot. The change from a “scary” throttle response was exactly what I needed. It costs nothing to modify it compared to the other mods I listed. I guarantee this, modifying the tube, will get you what you want. Feel free to ask questions. Good luck! https://flic.kr/p/2rPhx56 Oh, we happen to be the same age. When you and I were riding trials in the 70s the throttles were linear and smooth. The new age throttles have the cam we didn’t back then. That quick throttle caused me a serious crash with a punctured lung and six broken ribs. I know exactly what you’re going through. Let me know if the link doesn’t work.

Sell it and buy a 250 is the least amount of messing about.

The throttle on the 2012 is WAAAY too scary. Comes on way too hard with small throttle inputs. What methods are there to calm this beast down? 1) What alternatives are there to slow the throttle cable twist grip? I use the Domino side pull (slow) trials version now. 2) Changes to timing? Advance or retard? 3) Changes to cylinder compression or gasket thickness? 4) Changes to ignition mapping available? 5) Porting mods? 6) Reed mods? 7) Cylinder alternatives? Is there a 250 piston/barrel available that will fit on the 290 engine? I am 65 years old and a expert-level rider in my previous life, so don't give me this "You gotta train harder and get used to it" approach. I don't want to shoot up and over 15' vertical steps...I just want to slow things up a bit.

It is impossible to bounce the rear on the 2012 . Can't even get it off the ground no matter what I do. Front brake is clean and acts like a trigger on a gun, but still won't lift the rear end. Damping is WAAAAAY too slow. Sag is about 10-15mm with no rider. Is there any damping adjustment on the stock 2012 rear shock and where is that bugger anyway?

feetupfun, To be clear I would want to use the KT triples as well, so if using the 175 wheel a spacer would be needed? Still not sure how to anchor the TY brake arm. I think the KT uses a lug cast into the backing plate and lower.

Yes 4 pot front brakes were a huge advance in brake control compared to 2 pot. The EVO also feels substantially lighter to ride than the Techno. I remember riding my first Rev 3 in about 2001 and being amazed at how light it felt to ride compared with a Techno.