Yamaha
2,189 topics in this forum
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Hi guys Can I swap the standard TK carb for a 26mm Mikuni as a straight swap ? Is the inlet rubber and the air filter hose the same ? I am assuming that I can just get a Mikuni and pop it on but I decided it might be sensible to ask first ... Rob
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Amazing what a bit of spit and polish can do http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a770d1332
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The knuckle between the kick lever & splined shaft broke on my TY250A! Is there another model that will fit since this part is no longer available?
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Hello, I picked up a TY250A twin shock a while ago for fun. Picked it up for only US$125. Runs like a dream, needed some TLC but that's part of the fun. I feel that the 14/53 sprockets have it geared too high for trials, OK for trail. I plan to change the front and see that Sunstar makes both 12 and 13 teeth options. What does anyone recommend? I ride Novice to Intermediate. Also, do I need to remove the left side cover to change the sprocket?
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Trying to help a local lad with his TY175 No spark - checked plug, cap, lead, kill switch etc - suspect points or condenser. Have ordered new points, condenser, plug etc Can anyone post a link to relevant section of manual or give a step by step guide to fitting and checking timing. All my bikes have electronic ignition systems so any help appreciated Cheers in advance (pardon the pun )
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G'day, hope you guys can help. Have installed new races in the frame top and bottom that came with the new roller bearings. I matched the stamped numbers and brand so all should be sweet. But: the top race sits a nats just below flush with the frame, so the bearing sits a tad high, which I assume is the way things should be so the top section has something to turn on. Is this right? The race will not go in any further. The botttom race is in snug as, but more recessed, with space for what I assume is to accomodate the black rubber dust seal that comes as part of and at the base of the bearing. Again, does this sound right? I question it because the seal doesn't slip into …
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I want to extend the actuator lever on one of my ty350's to soften the pull. My question is, do I need to remove the clutch basket and push rod or will the lever pull up and out without removing the clutch assembly? Thanks!
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Any wisdom from the Northern Hemisphere?? Click on this one: http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7408
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261055368135&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123 Perhaps we should alert Dougie in case he wants to buy it back?
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I found a chap who has a few (old/new) stock ty pistons in the uk. These are the Dykes ring type with the correct window size in the piston, some are Hepolite and a few other brands. He has them for the 175 and 250 (twinshock), the 175 are only available in .25 and .50 sizes, don't know about the 250. If your interested give him a call on 01829 261641.
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after getting my clutch fixed i took the bike out for a run and then one of the forks seized solid. it does move a little while twisting it but it feels very rough, i don't know how im going to get it apart. iv been meaning to change the seals for a while as they were leaking very badly so i suspect the lack of oil is what caused it to seize. does anyone know how ill be able to get it apart. i just hope this hasn't caused any serious damage. Cheers Lewis
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I recently purchased a used full clutch kit from ebay as my clutch boss was damaged it all seemed in good condition but now that i have assembled it the clutch is slipping so bad the bike can only just pull away. does anyone know what the problem could be? Cheers Lewis
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Hi all, just picked up a 1974 TY80 for my daughter, stal of a deal but it is all in pieces. Does anyone have an electronic version of the manual available? PM me if you do!
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Which year/model DT Yamaha 175 has the same crankcases as the TY. A friend is trying to locate some cases or bottom end, also what is the gripe with the TY when the k/start returns too far and puts a hole in the clutch case? is it a return inside?? Seen it before but can't remember why it happens. Thanks in advance...
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Came across these quick clips of Mick on the Ty "back in the day". http://www.dailymoti...deo-site-3_auto# More directly below the first one. Let me know if this works or not...trialskat
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My Friend has just bought a Goddon Majesty TY250, it had been stood for several years, we have cleaned carb & tank out & put in fresh petrol, started up no problem, ticks over all good. However took it out on his practice track it seemed to pull Ok but power is very flat, not as good as his Ty175. Starts, runs, does not miss, just seems to lack any Oomph. Any Ideas ??
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Guys , been told am not the only one and wont be the last to say "my rear brake on my pinkys knackered" , the crank pin has been bogged before but now the pivot pin has given up the ghost and all I had for a trial was a sticking / useless back brake which had me using the front more than I like ... now heres the question{S} 2. Does anyone make a billet unit .... John @ TY says he's looking at it but that does help me now ! 3. Will another brake plate work with some mods eg: TY80 ? 4. Anyone else had the same craking/pivots giving up issues and if yes how did you fix it ? 5. Last but not least is there a suitable rear disc brake conversion ? ... eg: will the TY250Z wh…
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If my efforts have not sorted my ignition problems this weekend then I'll be going electronic (reluctantly as the original was regarded as a good system). There seem to be two systems on the market; Trail and Trials and Electrex World. The former advances to 25 degrees BTDC, the latter to 16 degrees BTDC. Does anyone know how this compares to the standard set up at 1.8mm BTDC and/or have experience of the two to say how much effect the 9 degrees greater advance on the T&T one has compared to the other? By the way the motor has been taken out to 200 but I have no idea how this has been achieved (I believe there is more than one way to do this). Thanks.
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a lot of money for something that is good for nothing !!!! ebay Item number: 170853022606
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